Hi Tom,
I do agree.
Not by far but it's the best.
You're confusing...
I'm still convinced that the Silmic bypassed by the FKP2 (and only in this case) is superior to a Panny FM (bypassed or not).
Before the Ultimate Group Buy I never tried a Blackgate...
Now I feel in this position a Blackgate (not bypassed) is sligtly better but since they're no more available a Silmic bypassed by a FKP2 is still a valid alternative.
But probably a Cerafine (that has a timbre similar to BGs) bypassed by a FKP2 is a better alternative.
Tell the full story Tom...
You didn't like the Silmic bypassed by a MKS2
And Silmics doesn't kill resolution but it's true that sometimes they give too much reverbs in spite of presence.
In fact actually in C6/C11 I prefer Cerafines and even better 50V KZs for this excess of reverbs.
But I learned a lesson from the MyRef, DCB1 and MINI2496 DAC... no cap it's the best in all positions.
Actually I'm using KZs, Silmics, Cerafines, Blackgates, BC038 and all of them are better than the others in different posistions...
Particularly Blackgates are often bettered by other caps as they tend to be too dry but in some positions there's simply no better cap...
I do agree.
Not by far but it's the best.
You're confusing...
I'm still convinced that the Silmic bypassed by the FKP2 (and only in this case) is superior to a Panny FM (bypassed or not).
Before the Ultimate Group Buy I never tried a Blackgate...
Now I feel in this position a Blackgate (not bypassed) is sligtly better but since they're no more available a Silmic bypassed by a FKP2 is still a valid alternative.
But probably a Cerafine (that has a timbre similar to BGs) bypassed by a FKP2 is a better alternative.
Tell the full story Tom...
You didn't like the Silmic bypassed by a MKS2
And Silmics doesn't kill resolution but it's true that sometimes they give too much reverbs in spite of presence.
In fact actually in C6/C11 I prefer Cerafines and even better 50V KZs for this excess of reverbs.
But I learned a lesson from the MyRef, DCB1 and MINI2496 DAC... no cap it's the best in all positions.
Actually I'm using KZs, Silmics, Cerafines, Blackgates, BC038 and all of them are better than the others in different posistions...
Particularly Blackgates are often bettered by other caps as they tend to be too dry but in some positions there's simply no better cap...
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Well, I did write that this was the shortened version of a long story. Dario, you are correct in all the details.
I hope the new builder buys both caps so he can decide for himself. If he's already buying the BG, which is the larger expense but also the better choice, the Silmic will cost only a little more.
That was a nice write-up you did about the Sonicap. I might try the Mundorf Zn again now my new speakers are done. These tweeters and mids are so much better than what I was using before, and I need to revisit the decision I made.
I don't remember if I posted a pic yet.
Peace,
Tom E
I hope the new builder buys both caps so he can decide for himself. If he's already buying the BG, which is the larger expense but also the better choice, the Silmic will cost only a little more.
That was a nice write-up you did about the Sonicap. I might try the Mundorf Zn again now my new speakers are done. These tweeters and mids are so much better than what I was using before, and I need to revisit the decision I made.
I don't remember if I posted a pic yet.
Peace,
Tom E
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No, it's not so.
No tamed highs.
In general:
Silmics, once burned in, tend to have strong and clear highs while bass, still full, a bit dry. Reverbs and harmonics are a lot (it seems more than what signal carry...) and presence suffer a bit.
Blackgate standard are more 'round', fuller, more accurate but not more exetended, with a bit too few harmonics and reverbs, dry.
Cerafines are between Silmics and Blackgates, timbre is more similar to BGs but they're not dry at all, BTW their highs are less transparent than both.
Nichicons KZ (50V version, 25V is way inferior) seems the most balanced, it sounds like BGs, round and full, but it's not dry at all, it requires, like BGs, a long burn-in.
You should decide by yourself but I think you'll keep the BGs...
Wow Tom!
It's an impressive work!
Sonicaps are incredibly musical but, for my taste, the loss of detail vs DC-coupling is too much, sadly.
I'm waiting KZs in C6/C11 to full burn in but so far they seem the cure (or part of) to obtain with Zns a timbre similar to Sonicaps.
so i just put the silmics in and wow, it sounds like a different amplifier. silky is certainly the perfect word for it. attacks are smoother and there's more reverb/harmonics as Clave says. everything's an improvement over panny fc and I'm anxious to hear what blackgates will bring to the table. the amp is completely livable to my standards now but there's still a touch of brightness that i wouldn't mind taming. all my other caps are still FC. which component should i next replace for the maximum benefit?
Sure it's so, did you use the 22nF FKP2 bypass?
A fuller, more focused and clean sound, quite less reverbs and slightly smaller soundstage.
First of all the FCs...
Use 50V KZs for C6/C11.
For C1/C2 I'm still trying to find a cap that fits and sounds better than FMs.
FMs sounds pretty good in these positions but there's a slight hardness of medium frequencies.
Next cap in the round will be BC Components 038 series...
An additional note on MyRef's output cabling...
After months of feeling that something was wrong I've probably found the problem...
I've used two types of solid core OCC (Neotech, Differential Technology from DIYHiFiSupply) copper and that 'bathroom' effect was still present with all of them.
Now I'm using a different material and now timbre is finally correct...
Tom, what OCC copper are you using for output?
220uF/50V KZ, but it's 16mm and will require a V1.3/V1.4 PCB. A 100uF/50V KZ is only 12mm and will fit even on a V1.2 board.
Also check out Nippon Chemicon KY or KZE, though they're not really audio capacitors.
My suggestion is to wait and install directly 50V KZs...
I've recently bought a desoldering station... the best 79€ I've ever spent.
I would have paid it several times with all the PCBs I've screwed-up...
I know but I've tried Nichicons FG (that fits) last year and found them too slow.
Probably KZs could be a different beast but I think that the 220uF value should be kept.
I didn't like all NCC caps I've tried so far...
I'll keep you informed.
just got done swapping c6 using once again the 'wiggle' method. that's the last time i'm gonna be doing that! it was a bit fun, though...I've recently bought a desoldering station... the best 79€ I've ever spent.
I would have paid it several times with all the PCBs I've screwed-up...
also i have wima (?) 1ufj100 caps under the board, one connecting a lead from c19 to somewhere. and there's no c19 installed so should i remove the wima when i put in the bypass cap?
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Somewhat related to desoldering ......
I don't want to get too far off topic but I don't know how many builders use this simple method to keep a tip clean. I wandered across it somewhere. There is probably something similar in most all countries. Grocery store item.
http://choreboyscrubbers.com/Products/Ultimate%20Scrubbers%20Pure%20Copper.aspx
Just stuffed into a spray paint can top. Really Works Great!
I don't want to get too far off topic but I don't know how many builders use this simple method to keep a tip clean. I wandered across it somewhere. There is probably something similar in most all countries. Grocery store item.
http://choreboyscrubbers.com/Products/Ultimate%20Scrubbers%20Pure%20Copper.aspx
Just stuffed into a spray paint can top. Really Works Great!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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The same method is used here. Stuff like this is actually sold in the electronics shop with the container.
It will be a very tight and awkward fit. It's also worth keeping the lead lengths short for C1, C2 to keep the added lead inductance to a minimum.
The holes are also undersized for some caps, e.g. Nichicon Muse KZ, Rubycon Black Gate Standard, some Panasonic FCs and maybe a few others.
Thanks, with KZs it sounds even better...
Siva,
when you suggested 100uF 50V KZs for C1/C2, I suppose you also actualy tried them, isn't it?
Do you think that lowering the value didn't had any adverse effect on bass performace of whatever?
BTW I've ordered the BC038s, I'll do the test with them and also 100uF KZs