Re: build
They are really just there to support things in particular since I didn't want to put the giant screw in the middle through the bottom. Since they are not hermetically sealed I doubt the are very effective as shields. They are made of steel (very thin and it was hard enough to bend...).
Peter
Dear Marc,marc brown said:
They are really just there to support things in particular since I didn't want to put the giant screw in the middle through the bottom. Since they are not hermetically sealed I doubt the are very effective as shields. They are made of steel (very thin and it was hard enough to bend...).
Peter
Not terribly useful... http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/XC-600038.pdfmadisonears said:
Peter
ClaveFremen said:
Hello Udo,
I think that FM included in kit are much better than FC, I find FCs harsh.
Probabibly MKP Q4s are better than R46, but Q4s are also baseline caps, you could surely do better
For instance PHE426s in the low cost area are quite good (from RS components they costs not much, but you have to buy 10 of them..)
Thank you for your statement. What do you mean with "baseline caps" ?
Udo
Reporting another successful build from Peter and Uriah's group buy.
You guys made it so easy. It just worked!! Thanks for your hard work.
And not to forget - thanks to Mauro for the excellent design.
Right now, it's just shabbily hooked up for the test run and
played it for an hour or so. Sounds great. I am temporarily using some
smallish heatsinks I have on hand, and they just get slightly warm.
Now, I need to find a nice cabinet for it and rewire it nicely.
I'll post pics soon, after I sort out some camera issue I am having.
Here's a dumb question - do you need to remove the blue insulation on
the Quickconnects to crimp the wire?
For the bringup, I used some non-insulated quickconnect connectors I had.
Prasad
You guys made it so easy. It just worked!! Thanks for your hard work.
And not to forget - thanks to Mauro for the excellent design.
Right now, it's just shabbily hooked up for the test run and
played it for an hour or so. Sounds great. I am temporarily using some
smallish heatsinks I have on hand, and they just get slightly warm.
Now, I need to find a nice cabinet for it and rewire it nicely.
I'll post pics soon, after I sort out some camera issue I am having.
Here's a dumb question - do you need to remove the blue insulation on
the Quickconnects to crimp the wire?
For the bringup, I used some non-insulated quickconnect connectors I had.
Prasad
Most cheapie wire strippers have an area with blue, red, yellow dots on it that indicate this is the area to use to crimp that color of connector. See if your does. Other than that you can try to crimp with regular pliers.
Your other connectors should be fine as well. We just liked the insulated ones. Especially down on the power supply side.
Uriah
ps congrats on a successful build!
Your other connectors should be fine as well. We just liked the insulated ones. Especially down on the power supply side.
Uriah
ps congrats on a successful build!
Dario,
Regarding C9 and C21: can you please verify that the vocal coloration we hear with Silmic @ C9 is NOT due to the Silmic? I know this cap sounds good there. It is very smooth and gives good bass, but what if it is also the source of that recessed vocal effect? Since you also noticed the effect, have you tried putting any other caps back into C9 position instead of the Silmic to see if it goes away? Perhaps the value of C21 is not the determining factor. I would try it myself, but you have a much better set-up for experimentation. I really want to nail this down, but I can't go through too many more solder/desolder cycles without wrecking the pads. I must say I did not notice that effect until the Silmic was in place.
Peace,
Tom E
Regarding C9 and C21: can you please verify that the vocal coloration we hear with Silmic @ C9 is NOT due to the Silmic? I know this cap sounds good there. It is very smooth and gives good bass, but what if it is also the source of that recessed vocal effect? Since you also noticed the effect, have you tried putting any other caps back into C9 position instead of the Silmic to see if it goes away? Perhaps the value of C21 is not the determining factor. I would try it myself, but you have a much better set-up for experimentation. I really want to nail this down, but I can't go through too many more solder/desolder cycles without wrecking the pads. I must say I did not notice that effect until the Silmic was in place.
Peace,
Tom E
Quadtech,
I think what you're asking is if crimping the lug will wreck the insulating sleeve. Yes, it will put a small "ding" in the insulator, but it won't wreck it. I am not using those lugs, so I don't know if you can slide back the sleeve. If you can, perhaps you should do so before crimping the connector.
Peace,
Tom E
I think what you're asking is if crimping the lug will wreck the insulating sleeve. Yes, it will put a small "ding" in the insulator, but it won't wreck it. I am not using those lugs, so I don't know if you can slide back the sleeve. If you can, perhaps you should do so before crimping the connector.
Peace,
Tom E
Peter,
Thanks for the data sheet link. Yes, it's not very useful because it doesn't give the inductance value. I tried measuring the inductance of the Xicon cement resistor in the circuit. My meter isn't good at resolving such a small value and the test leads have their own inductance, but I get about 100 nH, which is 5 times greater than spec for the Caddock MP930 power resistors. If I had to guess, based on that crude measurement, I would say the two are equally low inductance or the Caddock may be somewhat lower. If anyone knows better, I'd appreciate their contribution.
Peace,
Tom E
Thanks for the data sheet link. Yes, it's not very useful because it doesn't give the inductance value. I tried measuring the inductance of the Xicon cement resistor in the circuit. My meter isn't good at resolving such a small value and the test leads have their own inductance, but I get about 100 nH, which is 5 times greater than spec for the Caddock MP930 power resistors. If I had to guess, based on that crude measurement, I would say the two are equally low inductance or the Caddock may be somewhat lower. If anyone knows better, I'd appreciate their contribution.
Peace,
Tom E
madisonears said:
When you reported that silly coloration I've first pulled out C21 and then I've tried swapping Silmics and FMs (C21 unplugged) and Silmics was a bit, but only a bit, recessed; I've then compared to my Marantz and it was between FMs and Silmics.
So, IMHO, the great amount of the coloration came from 100nF in C21.
Silmics bypassed with 22nF loose the most of that bit of the coloration.
You could easily verify that pulling out C21, if you'll confirm my impressions we'll know that we're talking about the same thing...
With 22nF fitted in C21 I've just tried again FMs, Silmics and Nichicons Fine Gold (the latter are still burning-in) and voices are in the correct position, with 100nf all these caps present the coloration with FMs and FGs less affected than Silmics.
Nichicons Fine Gold seems a good alternative to Silmics, maybe better: at the moment they've more body and bass.
udailey said:
You can also solder the quick connects on.
Use needle nose pliers and pull the quick connect out of the insulator housing. Slide the insulator up the wire, insert the wire in the quick connect and solder it. Then slide the insulator back down and cover the quick connect.
I personally prefer to crimp (I have T&B ratchet crimpers) but some feel that soldering makes a better connection.
Thanks for the replies about the Faston connectors.
I couldn't yank the sleeve off even with a needle nose pliers and moderate force,
so it seems the insulation on these is heat-shrunk tight over the metal.
I'll just insert the wire and crimp with the insulation in place.
Here are some pics of the build and the quick-n-dirty test hookup.
Will update once I get all the stuff into a cabinet.
http://picasaweb.google.com/prasadb/MauroMyRefRevC#
I couldn't yank the sleeve off even with a needle nose pliers and moderate force,
so it seems the insulation on these is heat-shrunk tight over the metal.
I'll just insert the wire and crimp with the insulation in place.
Here are some pics of the build and the quick-n-dirty test hookup.
Will update once I get all the stuff into a cabinet.
http://picasaweb.google.com/prasadb/MauroMyRefRevC#
Removed C19 and C20 bypass caps from one monoblock and it seemed to improve depth of soundstage and dynamics. Removed same from other amp, and it does definitely increase dynamics and the depth of images without affecting tonality or stability of amps. In fact, they seemed to run slightly cooler, not that heat is a problem. Cost: free.
Peace,
Tom E
Peace,
Tom E
camarillo said:Dario,
sorry for the digression but what is "el siech"
'Terminology of the Empire' from Dune by Frank Herbert:
Sietch: [fremen] "Place of assembly in time of danger" Because the Fremen lived so long in peril, the term came by general usage to designate any cave warren inhabited by one of their tribal communities.