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#51 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Thanks for your information, it is most appreciated. As this is my first build I have a steep learning curve and everyones input is helping a lot
Originally I was using the two aluminium sides of the casing for heatsinks (80 mm high, 230 mm deep and about 6 mm thick). Do you feel these are adequate? One side for each IC of course. Also the IC isolator which came with the kit is a rubber pad about 2-3 mm thick. I have applied heat compound between the IC and pad then pad and heatsink. However when I feel around the area where the IC is mounted it does not seem to be getting that warm. This seems to me that the heat is not tranferring through the pad. Would you recommend a better pad? Maybe a mica one? |
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#52 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Quote:
Could the rubber pad be supposed to go between screw and IC as damage prevention? Quote:
Quote:
__________________
If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#53 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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The only washer I got with the kits were metal. This is the pad that I got in the kits:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=11889 As you can see it must go on the back of the IC with the raised hole going through the hole on the IC. But it is very thick. Does anyone know where I can source a mica pad or tape in the UK? |
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#54 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#55 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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The ones I have are quite thick, but the one in that photo does look thinner. I will have to do some testing with the ones I have and no thermal grease. I might also buy these ones and see if they are thinner.
Thanks for your help, I am sure I will keep you posted
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#56 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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I reseated the ICs on the heatsinks without an thermal compound and made sure they were good and secure. They chips are definitely cooler and I can comfortably keep my finder on them with no load.
So I think that solves my problem but I still need to get some 8 ohm speakers to test the amp fully. |
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#57 |
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diyAudio Member
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Good news.
__________________
If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#58 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Right I have managed to blow both the fuses on one of my amp boards! I think this was cause by plugging the input into my laptop. Any ideas why the laptop would have caused the fuses to blow? (I have been running my amp from an iPod or portable CD players so far)
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#59 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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it is an AC coupled amplifier, so It can't be DC offset problems.
No RF attenuation, could that be a problem. The amp oscillated before and may be unstable just waiting for a high frequency whistle at it's input. Did you hot plug it? That could have blown the fuses if it's unstable.
__________________
regards Andrew T. |
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#60 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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I think I might have hot plugged it. I am getting some new fuses tonight so I can check nothing else was damaged. Also getting the 8 ohm speakers I have been waiting to get to test the amp properly.
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