Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Chip Amps
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Chip Amps Amplifiers based on integrated circuits

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 3rd November 2009, 06:47 AM   #461
diyAudio Member
 
Tripmaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: UK
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
a bit of approximate mental arithmetic.
300/240 ~=1. Therefore T1A will allow the transformer to develop ~full power (VA rating). I know that a ClassAB amplifier is approximately 60% efficient at maximum output, therefore a 60W amplifier cannot use more than approximately 100W of input. If the amplifier is not abused, the T1A (240W of continuous output power) must be oversized for a 60W ClassA amplifier. That's why I think it worth experimenting with T800mA and T600mA primary fuses. I have found that smaller fuses than expected usually do not suffer nuisance blowing even when the amplifier is played very loud. It's all to do with listening at <<1W and having >20dB of overhead for short term transients.
Thanks Andrew
__________________
Richard
My photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/59839778@N04/
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th November 2009, 09:51 AM   #462
Puffin is online now Puffin  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
My experience using the same soft start modules as Tripmaster is that if there is any problem with the wiring from the transformer or on the chip, the SS module will not allow you to turn the amp on.
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th December 2009, 11:45 AM   #463
diyAudio Member
 
Tripmaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: UK
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
if the amp starts repeatedly without nuisance blowing on a pair of T800mA fuses then try fitting T1.6A or T2A at the inlet and 3A fuse in BS1362 plug top.
You might even get away with a pair of T600mA if the resistors are large enough in value.
Hi Andrew

I'm just getting around to fitting these fuses. I have read the secondary fuses can go after the rectifiers, but its not all that easy with chipamp boards.

Will there be any benefit fitting the fuses within the red circle 'primary' side of these transformers?

Click the image to open in full size.

p.s I'll send you a PM with regards to the LSK170s shortly

Thanks
__________________
Richard
My photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/59839778@N04/
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th December 2009, 01:31 PM   #464
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tripmaster View Post
I have read the secondary fuses can go after the rectifiers, but its not all that easy with chipamp boards.

Will there be any benefit fitting the fuses within the red circle 'primary' side of these transformers?
secondary fuses between the transformer and the smoothing capacitors need to be so high value that they provide almost no safety advantage.
Useful fuse rating in the secondary can only be fitted after the smoothing capacitors.
Aim for fuse rating ~50&#37; of maximum peak or rms output current into a resistor load = nominal speaker impedance.
i.e. 60W into 8ohm is equivalent to 22Vpk and 2.7Apk into 8r0.
This requires F1A to F1.6A in both supply lines.
60W into 4ohm requires larger value fuses.

The primary fuses are as stated earlier. One T fuse feeding one transformer. Two transformers requires two fuses.
__________________
regards Andrew T.

Last edited by AndrewT; 4th December 2009 at 01:33 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th December 2009, 03:06 PM   #465
diyAudio Member
 
Tripmaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: UK
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
secondary fuses between the transformer and the smoothing capacitors need to be so high value that they provide almost no safety advantage.
Useful fuse rating in the secondary can only be fitted after the smoothing capacitors.
Aim for fuse rating ~50% of maximum peak or rms output current into a resistor load = nominal speaker impedance.
i.e. 60W into 8ohm is equivalent to 22Vpk and 2.7Apk into 8r0.
This requires F1A to F1.6A in both supply lines.
60W into 4ohm requires larger value fuses.

The primary fuses are as stated earlier. One T fuse feeding one transformer. Two transformers requires two fuses.
Thanks again Andrew
__________________
Richard
My photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/59839778@N04/
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th December 2009, 07:47 PM   #466
diyAudio Member
 
Tripmaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: UK
Me again!

As you can see I have wound the Live wires together from each transformer and have done the same for the Neutral wires. Should I separate the Live wires and insert a fuse for each primary Live, or can I leave them joined together and insert a fuse on the Live and another on the Neutral?

As seen below...

Click the image to open in full size.

I am guessing I will need to separate the two Live wires and fuse independently

I'm sorry if its becoming a bore!

Thanks
__________________
Richard
My photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/59839778@N04/
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th December 2009, 01:52 AM   #467
diyAudio Member
 
lanchile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tripmaster View Post
Me again!

As you can see I have wound the Live wires together from each transformer and have done the same for the Neutral wires. Should I separate the Live wires and insert a fuse for each primary Live, or can I leave them joined together and insert a fuse on the Live and another on the Neutral?

As seen below...

Click the image to open in full size.

I am guessing I will need to separate the two Live wires and fuse independently

I'm sorry if its becoming a bore!

Thanks
Try to install those fuses outside, that way if they blow for any reason it will be easy to change them and you will not need to open the chassis.and it is good to use fuses one for neutral and one for hot.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th December 2009, 11:24 AM   #468
diyAudio Member
 
Tripmaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: UK
Quote:
Originally Posted by lanchile View Post
Try to install those fuses outside, that way if they blow for any reason it will be easy to change them and you will not need to open the chassis.and it is good to use fuses one for neutral and one for hot.
Hi Lanchile

Thanks for your help

What I was trying to ascertain was if I needed to untwist the two Live and Neutral wires and fuse interdependently. It does make sense to have access to the fuses externally, but I have a pile of pcb mount fuse holders at the moment.

Thanks
__________________
Richard
My photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/59839778@N04/
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th December 2009, 07:53 PM   #469
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
If you have secondary fuses that provide overload protection for the transformers, you can use a common fuse for both transformers, because it only needs to protect against shorts on the primaries.

If you have no secondary fuses, the primary fuse has to provide overload and short-circuit protection at the same time. That means, you will need a soft-start circuit to keep the inrush-current low enough for an adequate fuse rating. And you need one primary fuse per transformer.
__________________
If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford)
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th December 2009, 11:37 PM   #470
diyAudio Member
 
Tripmaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: UK
Quote:
Originally Posted by pacificblue View Post
If you have secondary fuses that provide overload protection for the transformers, you can use a common fuse for both transformers, because it only needs to protect against shorts on the primaries.

If you have no secondary fuses, the primary fuse has to provide overload and short-circuit protection at the same time. That means, you will need a soft-start circuit to keep the inrush-current low enough for an adequate fuse rating. And you need one primary fuse per transformer.
Hello

I have a soft-start circuit, and I am using a T1.6 fuse in the mains inlet, and a 3A fuse in the mains plug as per Andrew's recommendation. I just wanted to know if I needed to untwist the two primary Lives and Neutrals and insert a 800mA fuse per each transformer Live wire, rather than leaving the two neutral and live wires (two transformers connected together) connected and fusing each twisted pair with a 800mA fuse.

I hope that makes sense

Thanks again
__________________
Richard
My photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/59839778@N04/
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
A Beginners Guide to Enclosure Alterations Bork Multi-Way 7 12th January 2009 03:10 AM
beginners ecl82 power supply emil_86 Tubes / Valves 15 25th September 2004 06:20 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:31 PM.

Page generated in 0.13573 seconds (88.30% PHP - 11.70% MySQL) with 11 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio