For a nice kick to the bass, I prefer:
Monoblock / Dual Mono format
At the amplifier board, 220uF or 330uF or 470uF capacitors on power. And, of course 100nf too.
Too big at the amp board = no kick to the bass.
Too small at the amp board = possibility of loud mids or not enough bass; yet, the cure for a mild mids problem is a 2.2uF to 4.7uF 100v cap from V- to V+.
For the power supplies, these: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1558349#post1558349
have been working very well as an upgrade.
The zero-volt line is to be at least 18ga thick for best results.
With an 8 ohm speaker, you could use 1500uF caps in the above design--like whatever model Peter puts in the Audiosector amplifiers.
Hint, with an 8 ohm speaker, you can use a bridged amplifier because bridge + parallel will not result in greater output power (unless the amplifier is over-volted--not a recommend).
A note: Effective motor control isn't exactly measured in watts.
Have fun!
Monoblock / Dual Mono format
At the amplifier board, 220uF or 330uF or 470uF capacitors on power. And, of course 100nf too.
Too big at the amp board = no kick to the bass.
Too small at the amp board = possibility of loud mids or not enough bass; yet, the cure for a mild mids problem is a 2.2uF to 4.7uF 100v cap from V- to V+.
For the power supplies, these: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1558349#post1558349
have been working very well as an upgrade.
The zero-volt line is to be at least 18ga thick for best results.
With an 8 ohm speaker, you could use 1500uF caps in the above design--like whatever model Peter puts in the Audiosector amplifiers.
Hint, with an 8 ohm speaker, you can use a bridged amplifier because bridge + parallel will not result in greater output power (unless the amplifier is over-volted--not a recommend).
A note: Effective motor control isn't exactly measured in watts.
Have fun!
Interesting AP Note from National:
http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-1485.pdf
Although LM3886 will drive lower imp. I would apply
scale of thinking to amps in the note driving their intended loads.
http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-1485.pdf
Although LM3886 will drive lower imp. I would apply
scale of thinking to amps in the note driving their intended loads.
Nuuk said:
Is that 3 across or 17 down?
I've been trying to guess what that means for a bit over an hour. No luck yet.
Hey, but I do have a question for you. . .
With my power supply, it works very noticably better for monobloc / dual-mono (in electronic dampening topic). I'm wondering if that's expected "in general" or if there is something in particular that I can do differently?
Nuuk said:Dual monoblock supplies should sound better because you are cutting down on cross channel modulation.
I take it you don't do crosswords!
Thanks for the speedy answer!
No crosswords for me. I thought it was like that game where you have to yell "You sunk my battleship!" for some reason.
Oh, back on topic, howabout this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/PSU-Filter-Kit-...25798746QQihZ005QQcategoryZ4662QQcmdZViewItem
I just liked the photo, but, personally, I'd have used a faster cap than that. Funny thing is that it looks exactly like my hand drawn design from earlier, albeit that orientation for a rectifier is kind of goofy for a single-side PCB.
Hey, and don't you have a snubber type supply design? And, have you ever found a close copy of it on Ebay?
Daniel, you keep referring to 'your designs' as though you 'designed' them. But all these designs are in the public domain, and changing the value, type, or brand, of a component does not really count as a 'new' design.
Indeed, swapping out a component for one of a different value, type, or brand, is unlikely to change anything about a circuit other than the sonic signature. And that is a personal thing that you may like or dislike. It doesn't make that circuit better or worse for everybody else.
And no, I don't have any designs on Decibel Dungeon, other than those that I have copied from the application sheets, or from somebody far cleverer than I am with electronic design. So the answer is no, I haven't seen anything on Ebay that is my design, just various stuff that is quite clearly based on very common, non-patented designs.
Like you, I am a novice in this game. Unlike you, I don't have any problem with people knowing that, and much less of a problem knowing it myself.
There's a proverb that says something like 'If you want to be a teacher, first learn to become a pupil'
Indeed, swapping out a component for one of a different value, type, or brand, is unlikely to change anything about a circuit other than the sonic signature. And that is a personal thing that you may like or dislike. It doesn't make that circuit better or worse for everybody else.
And no, I don't have any designs on Decibel Dungeon, other than those that I have copied from the application sheets, or from somebody far cleverer than I am with electronic design. So the answer is no, I haven't seen anything on Ebay that is my design, just various stuff that is quite clearly based on very common, non-patented designs.
Like you, I am a novice in this game. Unlike you, I don't have any problem with people knowing that, and much less of a problem knowing it myself.
There's a proverb that says something like 'If you want to be a teacher, first learn to become a pupil'
Nuuk said:
I really did make it without seeing one like it beforehand; yet I'd consider that its just too obvious to be unique.
Edit: I wanted better bass and a more level frequency response, made a quick sketch (original was discrete rectifier), picked up the soldering iron, made the thing, plugged it in, and. . . oh how nice! It wasn't a big deal. Later I swapped the diodes for a block rectifier so that others could make it without getting confused by the diodes.
Edit2: eketehe helped with the portion of the power circuit at the amplifier board itself. His centerline spec of 330uF works for most chipamps to increase the resolution to greater than the "gainclone" style. Actually we were both after loud bass, but got fast bass instead, which was even nicer.
In combination, those two things provide one possible answer to the question on this thread.
Probably sometime soon, you'll see me quite humble, asking for some help with a preamp. My amplifiers could stand to be slightly more euphonic. I have no idea how.
Andrew, what about an (power) amp without any (highpass) input filter, say a DC coupled one?
The only highpass filter is the feedback then.
why do people think there's anything unusual, "interesting" here - are we talking real acoustic kick drum or synth?
uncompressed, not clipped, or just 1st doublet/peak clipped, or 1st 100 ms clipped/or hard compresed to fs 0 dB
do you design amp, ps to supply audio frequency, loudspeaker current demand or not?
real? Freesound.org - "acoustic_kick2.wav" by mhc
one "Rowland 808" (synth) kick drum sample shows clipped doublet, ~ 1ms neg, 4 ms positive followed by eyeball perfect few hundred ms tau exponential decay envelope of ~ 50 Hz sine
uncompressed, not clipped, or just 1st doublet/peak clipped, or 1st 100 ms clipped/or hard compresed to fs 0 dB
do you design amp, ps to supply audio frequency, loudspeaker current demand or not?
real? Freesound.org - "acoustic_kick2.wav" by mhc
one "Rowland 808" (synth) kick drum sample shows clipped doublet, ~ 1ms neg, 4 ms positive followed by eyeball perfect few hundred ms tau exponential decay envelope of ~ 50 Hz sine
Last edited:
I had this (Scottish) one in mind:
http://up.picr.de/16555103ya.jpg
I increased C2/C20 to 330 µF (+ MKP in parallel).
Mixed AC and DC coupling leads to very variable output offset.
This is a silly way to set up an amplifier.
Either AC coupled and few output offset worries once set up,
or,
DC coupled with all the detections and corrections and protections that should be fitted to save the speakers and keep the amplifier within it's normal operating region.
This is a silly way to set up an amplifier.
Either AC coupled and few output offset worries once set up,
or,
DC coupled with all the detections and corrections and protections that should be fitted to save the speakers and keep the amplifier within it's normal operating region.
All I can say is that I had built one or two LM3886 chipamps in order to understand them better, to prepare for what would be my third and final one. I stumbled upon Andrew's posts here and there, this thread in particular. An excellent read, but focus on posts 49 and 50. I also followed this advice on a proper power supply by rainwulf.
I took my time to understand those posts, ran the numbers to customize the amplifier to my 6 ohms speakers (and by extension every 8 ohms speaker) and the sound coming from them is unbeliable. I mean, I can feel the drums' hit in my stomach if I turn the volume up enough (for testing), neither of my two previous chipamps could do that. That's what the OP refers to as "tight kicking" I suppose. I could say the same for the mids and highs, it's another amplifier altogether. Amazing.
Listen to Andrew. He does know what he's talking about.
I took my time to understand those posts, ran the numbers to customize the amplifier to my 6 ohms speakers (and by extension every 8 ohms speaker) and the sound coming from them is unbeliable. I mean, I can feel the drums' hit in my stomach if I turn the volume up enough (for testing), neither of my two previous chipamps could do that. That's what the OP refers to as "tight kicking" I suppose. I could say the same for the mids and highs, it's another amplifier altogether. Amazing.
Listen to Andrew. He does know what he's talking about.
I know.
I indeed have ~100 mV on output on one of my LK2/75s.
No wonder the later Linn Klout has an offset correction circuit.
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