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Old 10th June 2008, 10:37 AM   #11
Nuuk is offline Nuuk  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Hope they aren't "bassless"...
I've been using 'full-range' drivers for a while now but only with bass augmentation! Much depends on musical tastes but I like to be able to enjoy any type of music.
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Old 10th June 2008, 11:10 AM   #12
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I've been storing a car audio subwoofer for one year but havn't found anything to pair it to. Would this be a good idea?
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Old 10th June 2008, 11:21 AM   #13
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I personally don't like sub-woofers unless that's what they are used fo, ie for frequencies below the woofers. Bass augmentation using two drivers is what I was referring to!
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Old 10th June 2008, 12:13 PM   #14
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I will have to do a lot of reading since my knowledge about loudspeakers is very close to zero. Which "other" driver would you use? Since bass is not the focus of the amp i would probably use a standard gainclone for the bass, but if the boasted efficiency of 99dB's of some of the NA drivers means that my class A amp would sound like if it had 470W on my 84dB loudspeakers, right? This is... uhm... loud.

EDIT: Would you filter the signal feed to the bass driver? A textbook second-order bessel done with something like the LM4562 would be right? I have just ordered some of these : ).
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Old 10th June 2008, 12:26 PM   #15
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I formerly used Goodmans 201 'full-range' drivers, mostly in open baffles. I found these needed a boost at the bottom end so built some transmission-line woofers. They were used with a 4th order to roll them off from around 60hz.

I currently use Hawthorne Audio drivers in open baffles (what they are specifically designed fo). I use the same 4th order (active) filters on the augmentation woofers. OB's are large but offer a great sound - it depends if you have the room as they need around a metre between them and the wall behind them.

As regards high-efficiency speakers, it is sensible to look at the over-all gain of your system, if only to make sure that you have a reasonable amount of adjustment with your volume control.
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Old 10th June 2008, 12:47 PM   #16
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Default See the full range speaker forum

Since you are a beginner with speakers a full range driver would be a good choice. I have both single driver full range (horns), as well as conventional multi driver speakers and have driven all of them with a chipamp with no problems. But a well designed single driver system can sound great with a chip amp. Go over to the full range forum, there are a lot of great designs available and a lot of nice folks who can give you good advice. You could easily build a great set of speakers for a fraction of your budget.
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Old 10th June 2008, 12:48 PM   #17
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I will definitely take a look at these drivers, as if i buy the most expensive NA's i will still have a lot of money!

I will diy the cabinet as i don't like to half-do things, so i either buy it finished or diy from scratch!

The gain of my system is 10 to provide 12W at line level input. My sources go a bit higher so i can get it to "just clip a bit" with everything at maximum. i may as well add another passive volume control if everything sounds too loud.

The problem is that if the fullranges are too sensitive, the 50W gainclone may not be able to produce reasonable levels to match the (much lower powered) class A amp.
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Old 10th June 2008, 12:56 PM   #18
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Quote:
i may as well add another passive volume control if everything sounds too loud.
Or just a simple attenuator!

Quote:
The problem is that if the fullranges are too sensitive, the 50W gainclone may not be able to produce reasonable levels to match the (much lower powered) class A amp.
I may be wrong but I don't think that is the case. I would be more worried about low-efficiency drivers causing a problem with a GC, than high-efficiency ones.

I agree with PJN that going for a single-driver speaker is a good idea to begin your loudspeaker building career. You could even build something using a cheapo driver, just to see if that type of speaker is for you.
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Old 10th June 2008, 01:10 PM   #19
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I will definitely go there to look how they get it done. I'm studying physics and there are a lot of books about acoustics at the library in spite we don't do a single lecture on it.

I will give them a read as i will work there this summer.

Anyways i think i will add the bass driver anyways, because i feel safe at amplifiers and filters and i have a new gainclone just build for "no reason other than fun" and i have no idea what to do with it. I will place it in a separate enclosure with its own filter and no filter at the fullrange class A so i don't have to walk tru the "getting active crossover not to hum" because the filter will be similar in grounding to an opamp buffer.

A lot of thanks for your great help!
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Old 12th June 2008, 06:41 PM   #20
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Since you are taking physics you are familiar with math, and if you want to take a crack at designing a speaker yourself, take a read on Martin King's site, great info. Martin has done some excellent pioneering work on resonant type enclosures (TQWP, MLTL, horns) and has created some of the most definitive calculations methods to design these types of speakers. For a small fee you can license his mathcad spreadsheet calculators, well worth the money especially considering the cost and effort that goes into building a speaker enclosure. I have designed three speakers using Martin's spreadsheets, one horn and two MLTLs, with great results. There are also a lot of nice designs that were developed using his software on the frugal horn site.

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