My First LM3886 GC - Page 5

pacificblue · 17th June 2008, 07:07 PM

You used different inputs?

samsagaz · 17th June 2008, 07:36 PM

Yes, i tryed with my PC and with an Ipod

pacificblue · 17th June 2008, 09:24 PM

Ah, I see. But can you measure DC at the input, when you connect anything? Or can you put a capacitor in line with the input to see, if the hum goes away (Cin in the datasheet)? For the test the value doesn't matter.

Could it be that your input connections are reversed?

samsagaz · 19th June 2008, 06:29 AM

will try with other Input wires, i will build another wire tomorrow, i cant figure whats wrong with this amps

Can someone tellme some values that i can measure to check if everything are OK?

Regards

Puffin · 19th June 2008, 08:47 AM

Here is a simple point to point 3886 diagram. Why don't you try this. I did and it works perfectly. It is inverting

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/nuukspot/...lone_3886.html

samsagaz · 21st June 2008, 01:57 AM

i really dont want an Point To Point amp, i want to use an PCB that works

I cant figure whats wrong will try with other components values.

pacificblue · 21st June 2008, 11:46 AM

You can find many working PCBs on the web. Buy or copy any of them. If it doesn't give you the same problems, you know for sure that your PCB didn't work. Then you can still improve yours.

If you have the same problems with the PCB from the web, you know that you have to find the solution outside of the PCB.

The advantage of the point-to-point solution is that you can do the same test without any PCB. No problems with p2p means, improve your layout. Problems with p2p means, search the fault outside of your PCB.

samsagaz · 21st June 2008, 06:52 PM

I CANT BELIAVE IT!!!! i get it working! both PCBs works great!!! :S

the problem was the input wire :S was in short!!!! DAMN DAMN DAMN

now i get it working and works GREAT !!!

well, now i have two design (2 pcbs), and want to optimize the components values / brand to get the best possible sound.

Hope you guys can help me on that !

will play with PSU later, now i just want to optimize the size of the PCB and the components. like i told before, i think that the new PCB are a little small, and maybe will get into troubles to solder the output wires and stuff like that.

Can someone tellme if exist some kind of guideline to build the pcbs, and if always small are better?

samsagaz · 27th June 2008, 03:08 AM

wel,l now im trying to build the Deluxe version of my LM3886 Gainclone, im using 1 trafo / channel (maybe will try with two to see if something are improved.
Will use Caddock MK132 for feedback, Riken for gain setting, and for smoth my transformer will use some Panasonic Caps. Wich any can improve the amp?

Thanks

sneih · 29th June 2008, 08:55 PM

hmmm congratulation....

please take a photo of your new GC hehehe

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17th June 2008, 07:07 PM	#41
pacificblue diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2008	You used different inputs?

17th June 2008, 07:36 PM	#42
samsagaz diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Argentina	Yes, i tryed with my PC and with an Ipod

17th June 2008, 09:24 PM	#43
pacificblue diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2008	Ah, I see. But can you measure DC at the input, when you connect anything? Or can you put a capacitor in line with the input to see, if the hum goes away (Cin in the datasheet)? For the test the value doesn't matter. Could it be that your input connections are reversed?

19th June 2008, 06:29 AM	#44
samsagaz diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Argentina	will try with other Input wires, i will build another wire tomorrow, i cant figure whats wrong with this amps Can someone tellme some values that i can measure to check if everything are OK? Regards

19th June 2008, 08:47 AM	#45
Puffin diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: U.K	Here is a simple point to point 3886 diagram. Why don't you try this. I did and it works perfectly. It is inverting http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/nuukspot/...lone_3886.html

21st June 2008, 01:57 AM	#46
samsagaz diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Argentina	i really dont want an Point To Point amp, i want to use an PCB that works I cant figure whats wrong will try with other components values.

21st June 2008, 11:46 AM	#47
pacificblue diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2008	You can find many working PCBs on the web. Buy or copy any of them. If it doesn't give you the same problems, you know for sure that your PCB didn't work. Then you can still improve yours. If you have the same problems with the PCB from the web, you know that you have to find the solution outside of the PCB. The advantage of the point-to-point solution is that you can do the same test without any PCB. No problems with p2p means, improve your layout. Problems with p2p means, search the fault outside of your PCB.

21st June 2008, 06:52 PM	#48
samsagaz diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Argentina	I CANT BELIAVE IT!!!! i get it working! both PCBs works great!!! :S the problem was the input wire :S was in short!!!! DAMN DAMN DAMN now i get it working and works GREAT !!! well, now i have two design (2 pcbs), and want to optimize the components values / brand to get the best possible sound. Hope you guys can help me on that ! will play with PSU later, now i just want to optimize the size of the PCB and the components. like i told before, i think that the new PCB are a little small, and maybe will get into troubles to solder the output wires and stuff like that. Can someone tellme if exist some kind of guideline to build the pcbs, and if always small are better?

27th June 2008, 03:08 AM	#49
samsagaz diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Argentina	wel,l now im trying to build the Deluxe version of my LM3886 Gainclone, im using 1 trafo / channel (maybe will try with two to see if something are improved. Will use Caddock MK132 for feedback, Riken for gain setting, and for smoth my transformer will use some Panasonic Caps. Wich any can improve the amp? Thanks

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29th June 2008, 08:55 PM	#50
sneih diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2008	hmmm congratulation.... please take a photo of your new GC hehehe