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#131 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
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Guessing is the least efficient method. It is not likely that you guess the right values. Don’t be fooled by people who claim to have found by guessing and listening that certain snubber values in a power supply lead to a better sounding amp. That is only marketing.
An amplifier can be unconditionally stable, conditionally stable or unstable. There are no intermediate states, like 58 % stable is better than 59 % stable. You want either an unconditionally stable amp or an amp that is conditionally stable as long as it is used appropriately. Increased heat dissipation may indicate oscillation, but the opposite is not a reliable proof of the absence of oscillation. Quote:
By increasing the gain, you create a lower frequency roll-off, and by that affect exactly the frequency range above 15 kHz. So, yes, they are mutually exclusive and you can only choose the compromise that suits you best. If you plan on making that a group project, you should however consider that those differences may be much smaller than the ones from one speaker to another. You will need to find the right compromise for different speakers, not only for yours. What is DC performance? Quote:
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![]() An amplifier with a phase turn of 135° or more at unity gain is considered unstable. Less than 135° are considered stable. Conditionally stable means that e.g. a high capacitance at the output can increase the phase turn of an amp so that it becomes unstable, although it is stable on the condition that the load is resistive. The upper graph shows an amp compensated with 22 pF in parallel to the feedback resistor and 220 pF between the input legs. The -3 dB point is around 120 kHz and consequently the amp is 0,1 dB down at 20 kHz. Phase at unity gain (frequency where the gain crosses 0 dB, here about 2,4 MHz) is around -118°. The amplifier is stable and has a margin of 17° to deal with capacitive loads. The lower graph shows the same amp uncompensated. The -3 dB point is around 400 kHz. The amp is down only 0,01 dB at 20 kHz, but at unity gain (around 7,4 MHz) you see that the phase turn is -141 ° which means this amp is not stable and very likely to oscillate. So if your amp oscillates those capacitors can cure that at the price of earlier HF roll-off and as usual, the bigger the capacitor, the lower is the roll-off frequency.
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If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#132 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Well explained Pacific.
I followed every word. There are a couple of minor details, where I don't agree exactly on values but that is verging on opinion rather than the science. |
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#133 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I'm aware that snubber values cannot work except for the specific model of transformer, layout and situation for which they are specific. I have been able to make use of RMAA; however, I do also find that some of its reports are about ten times understated. . . because its either ten times off or else I can hear 0.03db. One of those is true. I do not know which. However, errors detected are always at the same frequency and in the same direction. A more useful thing to do with the computer, but I don't know if its available, would be to play a square into itself and zero out any variance from perfect, and then next enclose the amplifier into that loop and look at the square wave difference. Is there not yet some incredibly simple way to do this? |
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#134 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: wigan
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HI Pacific @ Post 131.
That is a well written very useful informative post not that im a description expert by any means. Andrew t understands it although he has much much more amplifier design knowlage than me. For me to understand nearly every word Is amazing and you have certainley cleared up an area i was having a few problems with.. THANKYOU. Regards Ian |
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#135 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#136 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Niwot, CO
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I have been through this entire thread and also have written BrianGT four times and gotten no response. No links to any docs seem to work. I have the Chipamp 1875 kit. But I would like to get a schematic, parts list and possibly some instructions before assembling it. Does anyone know where I can find these? I find it unbelievable that Brian would sell these kits without these and furthermore would completely ignore all communications regardng the kits he sells. This is not cool at all. I'd appreciate getting help from anyone at all at this point. Thanks much.
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Nihilism is best done by professionals. |
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#137 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: NE Derbyshire
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Hello Steve,
The parts list is here: LM1875 Amplifier Kit | Chipamp.com The LM1875 datasheet will give you the diagram My personal opinion is that point to point wiring is much easier. Jim |
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#138 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Niwot, CO
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Thank you Jim,
The parts list link is helpful. I should have seen that myself. Didn't scroll down far enough to see the PCB part number designations. So the schematic in the national data sheet is exactly the same then? If so that helps quite a bit. That should do it. Thanks much, Steve
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Nihilism is best done by professionals. |
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#139 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: NE Derbyshire
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#140 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Niwot, CO
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Thanks again Jim. I see point to point is certainly doable. But I'll use the boards this time. I suppose the boards are simple enough that I can trace the lines and accurately reconstruct the schematic to be sure it follows the NatSemi data sheet. But I was hoping to avoid that. Either way I think I have enough data at this point to have a go at building the amp.
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