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#21 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: HK
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#22 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: HK
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#23 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
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Quote:
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Thank you very much, i'll give those pcb's a try ! Compare (p2p/pcb) how sonic quality increases ... superbe ! ![]() Best regards artQuake
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#24 | |
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diyAudio Member
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In a pinch,I've used J-B Weld,and a few coins (pennies) glued to various chips and stuff (small bridge rects.) You can even stack a couple pennies,or 'stagger' them (half overlapping),to make a sorta finned stack. It works well.
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
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@alexw88
Have you detected that your circuit in the schematic gives out inverted output of a signal ? I mean if signal is positive on input the output will be negative. I found this by chance while making measurements with RMAA. The Message from "Polarity" was allways detected as "inverted". When i changed the polarity it reported "correct" I wondered that time, why the left channel report had only Stereo crosstalk between 20Hz-20kHz of approximately linear -78dB and the right channel was meanwhile @ -90dB. After i changed the polarity the crosstalk lowered down, while noise level result was nearly constant as before changing polarity. ![]() (remark that my first crosstalk diagramm i have posted here was allready the corrected one.) So i think it could be useful for you and all @ here. So these are just my 2 cents ... Best regards artQuake
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#26 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
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![]() BTW: I'm getting the boards done (Get them in about 1 or 2 weeks) regards artQuake
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
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Finally got the boards.![]() Thank u once more alexw88 for support. ![]() Will assemble them soon ... i wonder if this boards will give better results ... Best regards artQuake
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: HK
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Blue PCB looks nice! To solder the 1632 thermal pad is not easy, good luck!
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#29 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Zemun
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![]() Sorry for OT, but those simple human feelings are irresistible. I nominate artquake for "Most Sincere Question" award and jackinnj for "Lakonian Answer of the Year". Thanks guys, you made my day!
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
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Alex, the thermal pad is really easy to solder, capillary forces helping the solder to flow under the chip, while heating from the bottom side of the pcb. Only the heat during soldering made me thinking.
But soldering the legs of the OPA is pure surgery Here some results with RMAA from p2p soldering board (before) and the new pcb board. Noise with p2p soldered Noise with new pcb ![]() Crosstalk with p2p soldered ![]() Crosstalk with new pcb ![]() Summary p2p soldered Frequency response (from 40 Hz to 15 kHz), dB +0.05, -0.01 Excellent Noise level, dB (A) -98.3 Excellent Dynamic range, dB (A) 92.5 Very good THD, % 0.012 Good THD + Noise, dB (A) -75.4 Average IMD + Noise, % 0.015 Very good Stereo crosstalk, dB -95.4 Excellent IMD at 10 kHz, % 0.015 Very good General performance Very good Summary new pcb Frequency response (from 40 Hz to 15 kHz), dB +0.07, -0.15 Very good Noise level, dB (A) -97.3 Excellent Dynamic range, dB (A) 92.1 Very good THD, % 0.019 Good THD + Noise, dB (A) -71.7 Average IMD + Noise, % 0.023 Good Stereo crosstalk, dB -96.2 Excellent IMD at 10 kHz, % 0.022 Good General performance Very good Interesting that the general performance of the p2p soldered got tiny better results ... I'll test it once more when i get the better remote controlled stepped attenuator inside the circuit ... @ the moment i'm using two 1 $ stereo 10 k Pots ... but result is good. Have you / or maybee others got about same results ? Or is there something questionable in the data ? Specially for THD + Noise. artQuake
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