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#11 |
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Electrons are yellow and more is better!
diyAudio Member
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Just glue it. Time will tell if the joint will break up. You can test with super glue to start with.
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/Per-Anders (my first name) or P-A as my friends call me Tube Buffered Gainclone in work |Thread |
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#12 | ||
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Pennsylvania
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Quote:
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Like I said above, try placing a thin strip of some kind of aluminum or copper under the part BEFORE soldering it down. I.E. cut the thin strip of aluminum to size and place it in between the pads, place a little thermal grease on the thermal pad of the part, place the part down onto the board, then carefully solder it into place. You can bend up the extra aluminum sticking out the sides, curl it, cut it, or whatever. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attac...amp=1113442445 (from this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...288#post619288 ) The chip in the picture has a thermal pad on the bottom of its package and it didn't come soldered to the PCB like it was supposed to be.
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Brian |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
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PowerPad Made Easy http://focus.ti.com/lit/an/slma004b/slma004b.pdf
I'm going to assume that the bottom of the adapter has no "wiring on it" -- if it has a ground plane so much the better. If you can rework the adapter by removing the IC and make a VIA with a 37 mil drill (I'm thinking in inches/pounds/seconds so you have the conversion to mm.) Use a small piece of wire of the same diameter through the VIA to the other side. To this attach a piece of copper tape to spread the heat. With SOIC, MSSOP etc it really is better to design the PCB yourself -- I learned this making a bunch of class D guitar amplifiers with the Texas Instruments chips. You punch a bunch of vias through to a copper plane and spread the heat out. It's easier to get it right in the first place. wrt Peranders recommendations of SuperGlue some of these cyanoacrylates won't stand up to a lot of heat and some are used in very stressful industrial applications -- i couldn't find from their website the point at which it will break down. time and heat are not necessarily your friends. |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: ..
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a heavy Cu (or maybe Al) foil strip under the package could be glued to the adapter for stability, avoiding shorting the inner edges of the pcb pads, and a small dot of heatsink compound applied to the pwr pad, then the chip could be soldered to the adapter in the normal orientation with a little bending of the leads – a miniature hobby C or spring clamp could be helpful
@~1mm length the pins should easily bend down 0.1-0.2mm to accommodate the foil thickness – much easier than milling the adapter pcb at the desired tolerances on parallelism the foil strip could be longer than the width of the adapter, and wider than the chip except where it threads under the chip, bend the ends up in a “U” shape I would use nonconductive ceramic/oxide filled thermal compound – the silver filled stuff could give capacitive and possibly DC electrical shorting if it spreads to the pcb pins another option is belly-up mounting, then the heat sink can be attached to the pad, I've used heatsink compound and clamping but the PC video memory heatsink people have made thermal conductive epoxies readily available in small quantity I bent the leads down on a TPA6120 one at a time as I soldered them but that was a standard SO pitch, not the MSOP – the TPA is actually totally symmetric so I didn't have to change the wiring like you'd have to with the 1632 mounted upside down |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Anonymityville
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I know I plug this stuff way too much, but J-B KWIK WELD epoxy works wonders for holding heatsinks on. It's a whole lot cheaper than "real" thermal epoxy too.
http://jbweld.net/products/jbkwik.php And yes, those little OPA1632 get blazing hot ![]()
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"If you don't like funerals don't kick sand in Ninja's face." - Ninja |
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#16 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
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Hi all,
thanks again for your constructive informations. Trying to attach the SMD heatsink with superglue failed. The contact area is to small and the surface of the heatsink or even the chip is to flat, that when I press (wich i really should, to achieve a high conductivity) it never will be friction-fitted. So i forget glueing. BWRX all ok, good solution, but i can't do it in case of aesthetics. Thank you nevertheless. Jackinnj, that would be also a solution. If I understand you correct, you ment drilling holes from the adapters downside to top (or vice versa ), while placing the holes in the thermal pad area mentioned in the TI-Spec. Sheet of OPA1632. And then sticking wires thru the frilled holes and attaching them to a peace of copperfoil. Right ? How can achieve good contact pressure with the wire from the bottom side to the PowerPad plane ? Designing a pcb in the beginning for this would be the best. Nice for the one who can do this. Well if alexw88 would join and make an offer for the gerber files that would be great ! On the other side i found a Thread of Stef1777 wich designed an outputboard for the DEQ2496 from Behringer which i own too. He uses the OPA1632 and considered also thoughts relating to high temperatures. TEXT So i quote the statement of janneman: Quote:
Do i have also have some human feelings of heat ? Or is this temperature not critical ? If so that would be really good. Anyway i could not improve sound while using a p2p connection board. It really has to be a well done pcb, which alexw88 has done really well. best regards artQuake
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#17 | |
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diyAudio Member
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
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and yes that I am ...
Sorry for my english. Incisive diction isn't often easy.
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#19 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
What I mean, at 50degr Celcius, you get unbearable pain and blisters on your fingers. The opamp just gets cozy at that temp. So we tend to judge the chip temp with our 'human' fears of heat. If you worry about the OPA1632 temperature (for instance if you expect the ambient temp in your case to grow above 50degr Celcius), you have two options: - lower the supply voltage to, say, +/-9V. That gives you 1/3 less dissipation. In my DCX2496 replacement board I run them at +/-9VDC (because also the CS3318 runs on +/-9VDC) for about 5V RMS max undistorted output. Very good sound. - change to the MSOP PowerPad package and design the pcb as shown in the data sheet for the PowerPad package. That gives you more heat removal capacity. Jan Didden
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#20 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
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Thanks Jan for reply,
Quote:
Asked in short words some further questions: Do you think now that a surface temperature on the MSOP OPA1632 of 70...75°C has to be minded critical or not ? Still cozy for the OPA ? and: Quote:
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