Commercial complete Gainclone kit for a beginner?

[Peter Daniel]

Originally posted by Bluto
This also gives you the opportunity to kill 2 birds with 1 stone and update your manual. Will you be doing this in such a way that input from newbee builders will go into a new manual if you see such as desirable?

In addition to that it puts to bed at least for your Company my statement wondering out loud if Kit manufacturers preferred to avoid newbee business by not making their materials ' less than absolute dummy' understandable.

As soon as people receive the boards, I will start a new thread, something like "Commercial complete GC kit - building instructions" with all the info needed to successfully assemble a working amp, and all newbee comments will be welcome.

[danielwritesbac]

Originally posted by Bluto
Peter -

Your offer is generous and for your sake I hope that all who had been lurking and not willing to get involved in what at times became unpleasant don't all jump up now and request a PCB.

This also gives you the opportunity to kill 2 birds with 1 stone and update your manual. Will you be doing this in such a way that input from newbee builders will go into a new manual if you see such as desirable?

In addition to that it puts to bed at least for your Company my statement wondering out loud if Kit manufacturers preferred to avoid newbee business by not making their materials ' less than absolute dummy' understandable.

I'll still be building Dans design when He's ready and I hope that those who have participated to this point don't see this as a reason to bail out on the efforts he's made. This is also your opportunity to put your money where your mouth is when you all stated countlessly that you really weren't against his efforts even if your posts sounded as such.

Thank You Peter.

Bluto

If everyone suddenly jumped and requested a new PCB, it would go well, except that the materials are costly, because they are high grade. They're excellent. Please pay for them.

The amplifier manual is already pretty good.
Its the darn transformer manufacturer's manuals that lack.

Peter supports the newbie business better than anyone else so far.

Peter didn't object to my efforts, but rather helped in every way possible. The only objection came as a courteous response to my asking him for a critique. And, I very much appreciate the support.

[danielwritesbac]

Originally posted by Peter Daniel


This one is good too, although you might not really need the caps.

Even with my boards, the small caps on rectifier board are optional and it's recommended to ***** the sound with and without them.

THANKS MAN!!
Shown is 2 of 4.7uF 50v caps per bridge (just one bridge).
Did I do it up compatible with Audiosector?

I think that its center tap ground connections (all on the bottom) plug in to the CG port on the AudioSector amp boards. Is that right?

[jb74]

Basic and basic-er

some have recalled that ". . . a journey starts with just one step."

True, but a suitable instruction only for those who already know how to walk.

[Bluto]

" Basic and basic-er"

I really like that.

A Book called 'Ephesians' comes to mind.

Bluto

[Peter Daniel]

Originally posted by danielwritesbac
Shown is 2 of 4.7uF 50v caps per bridge (just one bridge).
Did I do it up compatible with Audiosector?

I think that its center tap ground connections (all on the bottom) plug in to the CG port on the AudioSector amp boards. Is that right?

Yes, that's correct.

The caps were originally BG N 4.7/50 and were intended to add "image density flavour" to standard Panasonic FC 1500/50 supplied with a kit.

After the BG stopped production, and to safe on costs, those caps are no longer supplied with the kits, instead, Panasonic FC 10uF caps are there, mostly to "fill" the space.

Depending on the configuration (how close rectifier board is to amp PCB) and overall signature of a system, it may well be that the amp sounds better without those caps, so try it both ways.

I was later installing small BG N caps only on negative rail as it seemed to give better results.

My present configuration, as used in Patek amp, is attached (please note, that I'm not using input series resistor).

[Bluto]

Yes Dan!

Pictures with arrows with numbers correlating to same in instruction manual.

What a concept! Can you imagine? Even an Idiot could understand it. Piece of cake for an absolute dummy.

I am known to use sarcasm when the obvious escapes the more intelligent!

Bluto

[danielwritesbac]

Originally posted by Peter Daniel
. . . Depending on the configuration (how close rectifier board is to amp PCB) and overall signature of a system, it may well be that the amp sounds better without those caps, so try it both ways.

For that, here's the original "propeller" bridge block implemention from the year 1975, along with its modern alternative. How do you like it?

I think that one could still mount the 4.7uF's at the amplifier board, if desired. The likely connection point is at V+ and V- because of the handy layout. Is that right?

See picture below:
This is easier with the more durable polyester caps, although ceramic is shown.
EDIT: When using this one, CT (center tap ground) goes direct to the AudioSector amplifier board's CG terminal.

[danielwritesbac]

See picture:

EDIT: On specifications for this, the AC wires may be up to 7" long; however, the DC wires (from bridge to amp) need to be shorter than 4" length, if possible.

And, for "stereo layout," which is 1 transformer for 2 amp chips, then any wire for the right amp needs to be the same length as its partner, the left amp. Aim for symmetry.

[Bluto]

.... said the Frog. You need to be over 50 to get that.

A Friend said I may have said things in this thread that might have p.o.ed some.

I know he's right and I'm guilty of getting p.o.ed myself here on a couple of occasions.

No excuse on my part when I'm the guy who accused others of being thin skinned on forums.

Apologies if I offended anyone. My respect for experts was expressed and remains.

Bluto