Hacking the Logitech Z5500

I have the first version of the Z-5500, model S-0115A with a control pod with a strange PID: 10004885-0501R (it actually doesn't say "PID" on the sticker...it just has all those numbers in two rows) which I bought in 2002. The Pod just died (codec chip CS42526 fried). Does anyone know if this version can use the "pre-636" cables found on E-bay or if the pinouts are similar to any other version. I read through most of this thread and could find no reference to the early model Z-5500 that I have. Thanks.
 
Did you check the bottom of the sub?

If so that has the PID listed above? normally there is a sticker on the bottom of the sub.

As far as the cables on Ebay. If they are between 201 & 635 or pre 636 I believe they work great except for center channel will be disabled. They will tell you that it can not be done without internal modifications. But my post above says you can create a cable without internal mods to enable center channel. At least on my model.
 
If so that has the PID listed above? normally there is a sticker on the bottom of the sub.

As far as the cables on Ebay. If they are between 201 & 635 or pre 636 I believe they work great except for center channel will be disabled. They will tell you that it can not be done without internal modifications. But my post above says you can create a cable without internal mods to enable center channel. At least on my model.

I checked the bottom of the sub and it has the same number as the one on the control pod: 10004885-0501R.

I may just buy a cable and try it out. I'm just worried about frying something.
 
Not sure if this accounts for all of them but you can get it to work without any internal mods.

What I did is took and grounded the pin 7 and took a 220 ohm resistor between the +8 v pin and the pin 8 to properly enabled all the speakers. No longer needing the internal modifications and the circuits stay isolated due to the diodes/transistors properly applying the enabling voltage to the orange and white wires.

Only other thing I did is put volume control into the input circuit by adding 47k ohm pots in line.

If hooking pots up make sure you hook them up like this:

Input >>>>> ------ pin1 pin2 pin3 -----<<<<<< Shield/Ground
|
|
|
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output to speakers

You will most likely for sure need this for the sub. I did it because I could only bring my computer volume to 10 before being to loud. By adding these inline on all inputs I have my volume at about 50% and its about right and allows me to also turn it up loud if I want(75%)

so if i read this correctly, you are using the diagram from here for the wire but instead of connecting pin 8 to ground, you connect it to pin 10 (+8V) with a 220 ohm resistor inbetween?

Also, noobish question, the 47k ohm Pots, you need 1 per speaker, or can you use 1 per cable? Thanks for the help.
 
I have the first version of the Z-5500, model S-0115A with a control pod with a strange PID: 10004885-0501R (it actually doesn't say "PID" on the sticker...it just has all those numbers in two rows) which I bought in 2002. The Pod just died (codec chip CS42526 fried). Does anyone know if this version can use the "pre-636" cables found on E-bay or if the pinouts are similar to any other version. I read through most of this thread and could find no reference to the early model Z-5500 that I have. Thanks.

I ended up ordering the "pre-636" cable to try it out and it works fine with my older unit. The center channel doesn't work...I knew this going in because the listing on E-bay says it won't work with this cable unless something internally on the sub is modified.

Can someone tell me what this internal sub mod entails? Maybe a link to the post in this thread? I read through a lot of the thread but I'm not sure which mod to do.
 
Hello
I created a video in German. I show how the Z-5500 as remodels active subwoofer.
I made two more videos, I show how to modify the cable.

Here is the link: Hacking the Logitech Z 5500 Control Panel Problem - German - Aktiv Subwoofer umbau - Tutorials2k - YouTube

Have fun :p

Great !

I have a prob with mine. It's the same as the video (dated 2005 on PCB) and i did exactly the same as you did but i have so sound. I hear the amp goes on but nothing goes out. When i plug the pod and do test it works. Does all mute as to be solder to GND ? (7 or 8) actually all 6/7/8 are on GND. :confused:
 
I purchased a cable from ebay to enable my z5500 to work without the control pod. The problem with this cable is it apparently send the maximum signal to the sub and the sub COMPLETELY overpowers the rest of the sound. I tried cutting the wire inside the sub to the sub-speaker and that cut the bass too much. Next step? Add a pot to control the sub to control the volume of just the sub channel. The problem? I'm a novice when it comes to electronics.

I used a potentiometer from Radio Shack: 10K-Ohm Audio Control Potentiometer with SPST Switch - RadioShack.com

and soldered it inline With the grey wire between the (i'm guessing) line level board to the amp board with the ground pin going to the ground wire attached to the back of the heat-sink.

It works great!

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Hello guys. This thread has been truly inspirational! I'm very thankful that it's even possible to find this much information about hacking the Z5500.

I'm in NO WAY an audio geek. I have almost no knowledge what so ever in this field. I'm an electrician and I also like working with computers, inside and out.

At work someone told me they found a speaker in a house that had been auctioned away, and it was to be thrown out. I looked at it, and it was the subwoofer/amplifier from the Z5500 system, and it looked to good to be trashed.

I took it home, and thought it might be usable, but no. There was no control pod.
Then after some googleing i find you guys!

Now. What to do. My plan was making this into an active subwoofer, that would work together with my Sony 5.1 amp. It's got a preamp phono jack out, for subwoofer connection.
One of you had reverse engineered the pinouts, so it made the job quite easy.

I'm an electrician, so I have testing tools. I started measuring from pins on the connector on the back, to the circuit board inside, and found out where pin 6, 7, 8 and 13 ended up. Then I soldered 4 wires on. I mounted an RCA connector in the back of the subwoofer amp plate, and soldered the 4 wires to ground. The I found out that pin 2, Sub In, was the grey wire in the wire bundle, so I cut that and wired it to the center of the mounted RCA connector.

And it worked! My Sony amp can turn up and down the volume on the subwoofer individually.

Now I'm thinking about modding even more. I'm trying to find out, how I could alter the frequency range. The woofer is playing to much of the sound spectre.(Yes, that probably not how you say it)
Great work dude !
I had to copy your tweak on mine. ;) For a while it works but now i got no sound after a quick but loosing "buzz". Did you success for frequency range ? :beady:
 
Yes that is what I currently have configured(the power to pin 8). AS far as the pots you should be able to find some that have dual wipers and configure it with one pot per set. I have found by putting the POTS on I was able to have much better volume control from the PC and not be blasted away at 5% volume.
 
I was going to do the hack for the RCA version, after my POD died out of warranty (it's at least 4 years since it went out), mapped out the cables and made a schema opened the POD. But first i contacted Logitech (wow i am shocked) after two emails they decided to send me a new replacment pod for free even after the warranty went out!

I read alot about Logitech support being usless, but it's a long time since i recived such great and fast support from a company.

Just wanted to say that you guys who has a broken POD should try support first, if you hack it just to use it as a subwoofer it doesnt matter anyways :)

hack away!
 
Logitech support

I was also going to hack my Z-5500 until I (luckily) read "HorusIX" post about contacting Logitech support. I didn't even consider that that was an option for me because of my system being over 2 years old and out of warrenty.

I contacted the english support yesterday and the said that they would be happy to send me a new pod even tho my z5500 was out of warrenty!
WOW! I did not expect that! :D

Thumbs up for Logitech support!!! :up::up::up::up::up:
 
POD R108 to R514 system mod?

I recieved a new replacement pod from Logitech last week to my Z-5500 system, BUT they sent me a POD with a PID version that didnt work with my system.
My original POD i version R514. I guess I need a POD with PID# from R200 to R636??
( According to this cable it seems that way: Logitech Z-5500 (pre 636 PIDs) 3 jack Control Pod Bypass Cable w/ vol ctrl | eBay )

The replacement POD they sent me was PID# R108 and didnt work. Nothing happend when I pressed ON power, no light in the display and no light on the ON/OFF button.

After randomly pressing the buttons on the new POD, the display went on, but only the light, no symbols. :confused:

SO, My question to you all who have been successfully hacking your pods is:
Can I in some way get the R108 POD to work with my R514 Z-5500 system?
...or is the only solution to by a replacement cable as in the ebay link above?
:cool:
/Q
 
hi friends
i m new here,i m unlucky to have a podless z5500:( pid r844, untill now i didnt hear the sound When I try and turn my Z5500 speakers on the control pod will not power up properly so I cannot get any sound - the red power light is illuminated so it is getting power but when I turn it on the power light goes blue for a split second and the screen shows the configuration but then the light goes red straight away and it turns off again,i see that many have made a bypass cable 5.1,many tuto ,witch one is right for my system(sorry for my english)
is it same of the other : to turn on amp 6+7+8+13
thanks
 

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hi friends
i m new here,i m unlucky to have a podless z5500:( pid r844, untill now i didnt hear the sound When I try and turn my Z5500 speakers on the control pod will not power up properly so I cannot get any sound - the red power light is illuminated so it is getting power but when I turn it on the power light goes blue for a split second and the screen shows the configuration but then the light goes red straight away and it turns off again,i see that many have made a bypass cable 5.1,many tuto ,witch one is right for my system(sorry for my english)
is it same of the other : to turn on amp 6+7+8+13
thanks

You probably have to replace D18.
Good luck