Hacking the Logitech Z5500

Hello everyone, really awesome this thread exists and seems to be active still.

I have a problem with my Z-5500, spring clips, system firmware v2.0.4. I got it around 2005 or 2006. It's connected via cinch/coaxial/RCA to a Blu-ray Player, and via S/PDIF (Toslink) to the TV. Sources are the Blu-ray Player, Xbox OX, Switch, and a Fire TV Stick 4K Max.

I can't tell if this happens for all the sources, but with the Fire TV Stick (Kodi, Prime Video, Netflix), sporadically the Center Speaker output fails when watching something. Sending the system to standby and turning it back on fixes it. The problem occurred about four times in ~20 hours watching.

In the past, pre-Fire TV Stick era, we used the Blu-ray Player for Streaming from services and our NAS. At that time I noticed some glitches in the audio when watching Netflix, and sometimes all channel outputs failed, the Control Pod showing "No Digital Data". Switching input back and forth or turning it off and on again (Standby) fixed that, but often when we skipped back a couple of seconds the same error occurred at the same moment in the stream. So maybe that's correlated with the current problem, the decoder is acting up when some conditions apply to the audio stream data or something like that?

Should I open the Pod and check for aged capacitors and the likes or would the root cause probably be something else?
 
I forgot to mention, because of the humming sub, we switch off the system completely over night. Sometimes, after switching on, the Pod does not react to the remote or even the "power button", and we have to switch it off and on again for it to get out of standby mode.

It does this for a couple of years now, once every couple of dozen power cycles.
 
I forgot to mention, because of the humming sub, we switch off the system completely over night. Sometimes, after switching on, the Pod does not react to the remote or even the "power button", and we have to switch it off and on again for it to get out of standby mode.

It does this for a couple of years now, once every couple of dozen power cycles.
This sounds a little bit like the issue I had a couple years ago. It seems like the issue ended up being something to do with a bad rectifier, or was it a diode? Anyway, there was one fairly simple component that needed to be replaced to fix it. The problem is that is wasn't super easy to get to, and required a fair bit of disassembly to get to, but it was worth it to get my beloved 5500's back up and running. I'm still running these on my desktop. They have served me for over 12 years now, through 4 computers. Best PC sound I've ever had. Too bad there's nothing on the market to replace them if and when it finally does die.

EDIT: If you want to go back and see if it sounds like the problem you're having, my repair saga begins on page 34, post #661.
 
Hey, thank you for your reply. When I wrote my messages I was on page 19 I think. Now I checked page 34 and realized your description there not only was amongst the google search matches, but my entry point to this thread.

So I need to open the subwoofer, not the control pod?
 
Ok, thank you. I looked at a lot of pictures – yours included – and I was more afraid about opening the partially glued control pod (knob). Lots of screws and big components are alright. Regarding soldering I'm at a beginner level, but this I can do, I think.
 
i have problem with the connector. The female port on the sub woofer has broken 1 pin . The cable will fit inside but the control panel will not light up , not even sound coming out. I think the pin that broken is not about speakers (i could live with out 1 speaker) but responsible for control unit. What would be my best scenario if possible without soldering??
 
Well....dang. Here we go again. I just realized this morning that my rear right channel appears to be dead. I think it's probably something on the amp board itself, and I just don't think I have it in me to tear this thing apart again. It's a shame, since this has been, hands down, the best PC sound system I've had over the past 25yrs or so. I've moved it through at least 4 high end CAD/gaming workstations. I upgraded the front left/right speakers to ones I built with help from the kind folks on this forum. It's been a wild ride, but I'm afraid this might be the end. :(
Now I have to try to find a way to replace the beast. There doesn't really seem to be anything on the market that will compete with it, at least not that I know of.
I may try a DIY approach, and find an amp that I can hook to my PC and drive these existing speakers, but I don't really know where to start that search. There are TONS of 2.1 and even 5.1 amps on eBay and whatnot, but I don't any of them running this sub, since it uses it's own proprietary connections and all.
Anyone got a suggestion for how I can use at least my existing 5 desktop speakers, and drive them from my PC? If I have to replace the sub with a powered one or something, that's fine, as long as it can interface with the rest of the system like a regular 5.1 home theater setup. I just don't know how all this connects to a PC, or if it's any different. I don't have space for a standard HT receiver, or I'd go that route.
 
Hi all,

I have got a set of Z5500 PID R850 and was wondering can another control pod with a different PID number work with my speakers or not, if not can any of you shed some light on the issue I have.

The pod won’t turn on but I can hear the back of the sub working. No lights come on at all - I have opened the pod up and all seems fine but. It sure what it could be.

I’m not that savvy with electrics but all the help would be much appreciated.

Thanks
 
Hi all,
after 10 years, I finally received my old z5500 here in Canada. The Thing is that it is a European one, and I tried to plug it with a simple plug converter.
ok, that was stupid, and it obviously didn't work (no thump sound when I turned the switch on, then it could not wake up from standby mode, and one hour later it finally switched to the blue light, then turned off after 2 seconds. I guess the fuse went off since it won't start at all anymore)
my question is "what should I do now?"
specs on the back of the sub are these: 230V- 50Hz 1.5A
I guess the first step will be to replace the fuse, but then what? Is it possible that I damage the system? can I just plug it through a proper converter/transformer, should I replace the power supply and in this case, how to I do that?

thank you
 
IMG-20200422-135213.jpg


Here is one exemple...

Hello everyone, I'm getting into soldering and PCB repair, so I'm still a newbie. I recently dug out my old Z-5500 that blew up a few years back. It has the same issue as above, but worse...

PXL_20230326_180545986.jpg

PXL_20230326_181547174.jpg

I spent a couple hours digging through several forums and was able to figure out some of the components that I need to replace. However, I'm struggling to narrow it down, and could use some assistance please!

D18 - Bridge Rectifier (2W02G-E4/51) https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/625-2W02G-E4
WA1 & WA2 - Film/Suppression Capacitor (unsure?) https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/539-158X104K
C34, C35, C36, C37 - Resistors appear to be 22k?

Thanks!
 
My Z5500 recently started having an odd issue. Sometimes this happens immediately, sometimes it works for a few minutes first, but eventually a loud click will come from specifically the front left satellite. This click will repeat irregularly every 5-15 seconds. Then all audio will cut out from all speakers, ometimes after the first click, sometimes it continues sounding fine for a while other than the click for a few minutes. Once it does cut out it's complete silence other than the clicking from the front left satellite.

I call the noise a click because it does not sound like that common pop you get from speakers sometimes. It's loud but not extremely loud (it doesn't sound like it might damage the speaker) and its volume is consistent and does not change with the volume set on the control pod.

The control pod still responds and I didn't see anything immediately obvious when I took it apart. It occurs for both digital and analog inputs. Any ideas what this could be?

Edit: I should add that this started gradually, and used to go away if I left them off for a while, but now happens almost immediately no matter how long it's been off. That would seem to suggest something gave out to heat, but I didn't see any obvious marks other than the generally crappy soldering that seems to be common in all of these.
 
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Hello everyone, I'm getting into soldering and PCB repair, so I'm still a newbie. I recently dug out my old Z-5500 that blew up a few years back. It has the same issue as above, but worse...

View attachment 1158083
View attachment 1158084

I spent a couple hours digging through several forums and was able to figure out some of the components that I need to replace. However, I'm struggling to narrow it down, and could use some assistance please!

D18 - Bridge Rectifier (2W02G-E4/51) https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/625-2W02G-E4
WA1 & WA2 - Film/Suppression Capacitor (unsure?) https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/539-158X104K
C34, C35, C36, C37 - Resistors appear to be 22k?

Thanks!
Are you still looking for answers? I have my z5500 open right know. Im not an expert buI can look. Can you tell me were the components you mention are located? if its on a pcb, can you tell me which pcb and in what corner? do your speakers connect with plugs or clamps?

* C34, C35, C36, C37 ==> c is normally a capacitor.
*D18 ==> My z5500 has the bridge rectifier off board and does not have a ref number like d18. if d18 is your main rectifier, you should choose a part with a higher amp rating
 
Are you still looking for answers? I have my z5500 open right know. Im not an expert buI can look. Can you tell me were the components you mention are located? if its on a pcb, can you tell me which pcb and in what corner? do your speakers connect with plugs or clamps?

* C34, C35, C36, C37 ==> c is normally a capacitor.
*D18 ==> My z5500 has the bridge rectifier off board and does not have a ref number like d18. if d18 is your main rectifier, you should choose a part with a higher amp rating
Yeah, I've kinda put this project on hold, because I'm not sure I'm able to fix it. At least not yet with my experience level. Looking at the pictures again i'm sure the PCB is probably fried/destroyed... I did order a few components from Mouser, i'm not sure they're the right components, and afraid to attempt the repair.
 

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Yeah, I've kinda put this project on hold, because I'm not sure I'm able to fix it. At least not yet with my experience level. Looking at the pictures again i'm sure the PCB is probably fried/destroyed... I did order a few components from Mouser, i'm not sure they're the right components, and afraid to attempt the repair.
If you ask me, you can never have enough experience when it comes to repairs. My repair attempt wasn't succesfull either.... I had some new insights in the inner working of the pod, but whilst doing measurements I noticed that the unit started to show additional symptoms.... When I realized that my problem was in the control pod, I knew it wasn't going to be easy.

I have a new plan, it's not a repair, but I'm going to connect the Z-5500 speakers to a 5.1 receiver. I'm going to pick up a free receiver. The only mod I have to do is to rewire the subwoofer, nothing fancy, just connecting two wires to the actual speaker in the subwoofer, bypassing the original amplifiers. There 's one thing that can go wrong: I'm not sure if the receiver I'm getting has a subwoofer output.
 
Hey I have been following this thread trying to hack my Z-5500 to work as a standalone subwoofer with my receiver. I have the spring clip version and I have made the connections as seen in the attached image. 6,7,8, 13 and sleeve of RCA cable connected to GND. Center pin of RCA cable is connected to 2 SUB in. The subwoofer is working but the audio level is very low. I have tried to feed the subwoofer with audio signal from my receiver's sub out and I have tried to feed it with the audio output from my phone directly. In both cases the subwoofers audio output is very low. Have any of you experienced similar issues or know how I could manage to resolve it. Any specific components on the amplifier board that might cause the low audio output or something else. I hope someone with a little more knowledge than me could point me in the right direction.
 

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