Hacking the Logitech Z5500 - Page 52 - diyAudio
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Chip Amps Amplifiers based on integrated circuits

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Old 13th June 2014, 07:37 PM   #511
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i have z-5500 spring version when i connect pin 6'7'8 to gnd only center speaker work can some one pls help me on this
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Old 24th June 2014, 07:41 PM   #512
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What a fantastic thread. Thanks Undertone for starting it all those years ago, and thanks to all the other contributors. Great work.

I have an early spring clip version, R533, I got in non working condition about 2 months ago. The original owner had already gotten an out of warranty, discounted replacement, from Logitech and this unit was just taking up space so he gave it to me. The pod was totally dead. No stand by, no power, no display. And no sound. I did some research and discovered this was an extremely common issue with this system. So I opened the pod and was surprised to see that both the front and back sides of the circuit board in the pod were covered with what appeared to be white, powdery corrosion. I got out a fine, stiff brush and some 97% denatured alcohol and went to town on the board. When I got it looking like new I used my blow dryer to get it thoroughly dry and then plugged it in and turned it on. It worked! And I discovered why he liked this system so much. And now, about 6 weeks later, after I've grown to really like these speakers, the pod died again. I had just started Quake2 (one of my favorites) and turned to ask my son something. When I turned back the pod was in stand by mode, red led on the power button. I didn't remember turning it off so I grabbed the remote and hit the power button to turn it back on and it went completely off. No red or blue led, no display, and no sound.

Now I'm looking at replacing the pod with this mod using Przano's layout. But I would still like to use the pod. Does anyone have any idea what could have caused my unit to die the way it did? Any specific things I should look for? I'm a long-time vintage Hi-Fi enthusiast so I have the tools and know how to use them.

Thanks,
Rick

P.S. Hoping this thread is still alive.
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Old 29th June 2014, 07:43 PM   #513
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Bump
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Old 4th July 2014, 04:05 AM   #514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danichan View Post
err.. i quoted O.o i'm sorry.
Edit. yeah! i spend some time probing the system (only sub and central) and at this moment, sub works properly xD, besides, i has been reading this post and i have to say: thanks a lot for your works and feedbacks, really now is easy to make the work.

my system's a R714, i think i don't need to use +-5v for ground, so my problem with low v in pin 10 has desapeared... maybe. in some days i'll recive new wires and other stuff, i think i buy too some pots and make a POD mod with the old case.

thank to all, german, english, russian... whoever makes it possible that i could do this.

See ya friends.
Same problem!!! Question: Is it possible to use another power source to replace this +8v?
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Old 6th July 2014, 06:09 PM   #515
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Default PID 512 working again

Hi,

After investing another 3 hours and studying the logic of the HTC139, I was able to fix some of my previous problems. Opposed to previous solutions for my PID 512 I had to hook up pin 7 to +5V and not connect pin 8 at all. This way, amplification is normal and no distortion occurs on the front channels. The only thing I didn't manage to get working without a workaround was the center channel. So I still had to connect +8V to center enable on the subwoofer board. I also added a switch between +5V and pin 7. I'll also add a LED before and after the switch to display main power and "power on".

Pin 7 and pin 8 are connected to 1A and 1B of the HTC139. 1G is always low. Y1 and Y3 are controlling "power on" and "center on". So with the right combination of signals on pin 7 and pin 8 you're able to switch on the amp. Feel free to hook up +5 or GND to those pins to experiment. Due to the HTC139 you won't do no harm.

The pin-out of my amp is:
1: Rear Right (brown)
2: Subwoofer (grey)
3: Left Right (yellow-black)
4: Center (blue-black)
5: Left Front (yellow)
6: not connected
7: Power ON (blue)
8: Mute (white)
9: Right Front (violett)
10: +8V (red)
11: ground (green)
12: ? (white-black)
13: ground (green)
14: +18V (red-black)
15: -18V (black)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg board.jpg (295.3 KB, 41 views)
File Type: jpg diagram.jpg (252.4 KB, 40 views)
File Type: png HCT139pinout.png (9.3 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg HCT139logic.jpg (76.6 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg control.jpg (213.0 KB, 40 views)
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Old 10th July 2014, 06:54 PM   #516
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Neuweiler,

I'm planning on building this pod bypass and I like the changes you've made. They look like they make sense for my system with PID R533. Question, when you say
Quote:
The only thing I didn't manage to get working without a workaround was the center channel. So I still had to connect +8V to center enable on the subwoofer board
did you fix this with the yellow jumper you show in one of your images? Also, I seem to remember some posters mentioning grounding or ungrounding pin 6 to mute the system. Have you looked into that?

One more thing, will you be posting your LED additions here too (please)?

Thanks,
Rick

P.S. Glad someone is still keeping this thread alive
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Old 13th July 2014, 09:12 PM   #517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickKnight View Post
Question, when you say did you fix this with the yellow jumper you show in one of your images?
Yes, the yellow cable in the picture on the left is used to enable the center speaker.
Quote:
Also, I seem to remember some posters mentioning grounding or ungrounding pin 6 to mute the system. Have you looked into that?
I couldn't locate any wire in the original cable which connects to pin 6. But I think pin 8 is mute and if grounded or connected to 5V will mute the system.
Quote:
One more thing, will you be posting your LED additions here too (please)?

Thanks,
Rick

P.S. Glad someone is still keeping this thread alive
Glad if it helps someone. The LED's are very easy. If you want a LED to light up as soon as the device has power, connect it to the right side of the switch (in the diagram) and if you want to connect one to light up when it is switched on, connect it on the left side of the switch. Place a 220Ohm resistor in series of the LED connect the other side of the LED to ground. Depending on the color and size of the LED you may have to use a different resistor. (check resistor calculators on the net).
Connect a LED like this
Attached Images
File Type: gif LED3.gif (2.4 KB, 7 views)
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