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Old 24th September 2013, 04:26 AM   #481
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Just made mods to a Z5500 pod PID R-547 to work on a Z5500 sub PID R638
The R-547 POD uses Pin 7 as the turn on for the sub, it is a momentary Hi pulse some posts say +5 volts.one pulse is on pulse again goes off. the same holds true for mute which is a + voltage.

I think is was 3.5 volts on my meter I forget, the point is this pod does control by going hi and the sub I have needs to go low to ground. Also the power on to ground is done by pin 6 wire which was missing on the go hi pod I have. My simple fix was to remove two wires from the pod board wire number 7&8 this stops the grounding of the hi signals.

Wire 7 is the enable of sound to come out of the woofer and 8 is the enable center channel to come on. By jumping pin 6&7 on the input board in the woofer I had a path back to start and because I was just plain lazy I tied wire 8 to7 it in the pod for center turn on but if you wanted to I am sure you could just use one of the wires for the replacement for the missing wire 6 and then tie the mute of the sub and the mute of the center channel together and use a circuit placed in the pod or the sub to use the the hi mute on to ground pin 7&8 to enable.

Now to get the unit to turn on I just used a small npn signal transistor (just about anything will do you have laying around) and a small reed relay DG1A12BW which is 1 amp and 12 volts I just so happened to have. I hot glued it in the pod dead bug style top down legs up out of the way. and soldered the emitter and collector pins of the transistor to the relay pins the emitter to the grounded side of the relay contact and the collector to one side of the coil adding a dropping resistor to the other side of the coil contented to 18+.

I got my signal on form the blue side of the pilot light. the connections are as follows, starting from the light a dropping resistor maybe 33k to 39k and a 2n4148 diode(band points at transistor in series for back protection (just enough voltage to make the transistor turn on) to the base. The emitter to ground and the collector in series with the 12 relay and an appropriate dropping resistor to the 18+ source in the pod to achieve the desired voltage at your choice of a relay. Don't forget to add a reverse diode (band points to B+) across the coil for kick back. The2n4148 was ok for my relay.

Now just tie one side of the SPST Normally open contact to ground and tie the other to the (white and blue wire in my) pod 7&8 .When you now turn the pod on the small amount of signal taped off the blue side of the light will turn on your transistor turning on the relay and grounding wire 7&8 and with the jumper in the sub from 6&7 it will now ground all three pins resembling normal operation except if you put it in mute the sub will still play. And as i said above if you wanted that feature you would have to add a little more circuitry to use its high to open the ground of wire 7 in the sub to mute and the jumper you used from 6 to 7 would have to be changed to 6 to 8 being used to replace missing 6 and 7 going hi high when you hit mute .

I hope this is not to confusing i wrote this out instead of adding a picture because only menbers can see picks I truly hope this helps all the questions as to why my replacement pod did not work or if you are using a different one also remember some pods from different models did not use 18+ and 18 - Ps. this wrong pod did light up and come on when plugged in to the sub just no sound or power on
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Old 3rd October 2013, 04:03 PM   #482
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Thank you guys so much for this thread. I just made a sub preout adapter for my Z5500 (spring clip R540). I used the schematics from post 461 (along with others). To make the 5v for pin 8, I ran the 8v from pin 10 into a 7805 regulator (I had some laying around). I soldered it to a 15pin female dsub to avoid taking the sub apart (my pod still works, I just want to use the sub with a new receiver). The adapter works great as long as the rca plug pins are not left floating (left unplugged you get the nasty tone others have mentioned). I have attached my schematic for others to use if they want to build one. Thank you all for your hard work.
Attached Images
File Type: png Z5500_SubPreOut.png (4.0 KB, 423 views)
File Type: jpg Z5500_Adapter.jpg (291.7 KB, 418 views)
File Type: jpg Z5500_Adapter_Full.jpg (595.8 KB, 405 views)
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Old 18th October 2013, 02:18 PM   #483
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Hello
I created a video in German. I show how the Z-5500 as remodels active subwoofer.
I have created two more videos, I show how to modify the cable.

Here is the link: Hacking the Logitech Z 5500 Control Panel Problem - German - Aktiv Subwoofer umbau - TimoMachts - YouTube

Have fun
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Old 18th October 2013, 02:20 PM   #484
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Default Video Tutorial

German Video-Tutorial

Hacking the Logitech Z 5500 Control Panel Problem - German - Aktiv Subwoofer umbau - TimoMachts - YouTube
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Old 28th October 2013, 01:36 AM   #485
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Default Bypass successful! Sound Card to Sub. pre-636

Thank you EVERYBODY for you contributions to this thread since 2007. Truly inspirational!

I too have a pre-636, spring-clip version Z5500 with dead control pod. My goal was to create a bypass cable going from my computer sound card straight to the sub, with no internal sub mod, and still having 5.1 surround, yes all six speakers working, including center and sub working perfectly, and independently, just like they should.

The posts that helped me the most were knexkid, Toffmonster, fluxarc , Sstevensn72 , and the final big puzzle piece, foodbag, the key being the 7805 voltage regulator, and not directly grounding pin 8. Thank you all for your help!

My bypass works perfectly, all six speakers. Front Left, Front Right, Rear Left, Rear Right, Center, and Sub all working, tested independantly using Realtek test screen where you can select each speaker and hear it play. I also added pots to control volume, just as everyone else recommended. I recommend too, as it is very loud. Here is youtube video of my bypass in action.

The only thing that I noticed was my D-Sub female connector numbering is backwards from what this forum suggests. I've attached my schematics for both no-pot, and with-pots. You can see my D-Sub connector with embossed numbers. They are definitely backwards, but this works great!

I hope this post helps someone like all of the others did for me. Good Luck!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg NoPots.JPG (129.8 KB, 332 views)
File Type: jpg WithPots.JPG (155.2 KB, 329 views)
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Old 8th November 2013, 07:41 PM   #486
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Hi, maybe somebody knows a solution,

my preamps was damaged and i start to turn them off and go after the preamps to the amps.
but now i got a Problem.
i hear the woofer working when i swith him on, but i dont get a Sound. if i go direct after the preamps.
my other Speakers are working fine.
could it be that the woofer got two preamps and amps?
and does somebody know where i Need to solder them?

greetings

Lucas
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Old 17th November 2013, 12:05 PM   #487
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Default Bypass successful! Sound Card to Sub. pre-636 - pics

For those who can't view the thumbnail pics from post #485 above, see below. Hopefully Photobucket doesn't zap these later.

Without volume control pots:
Click the image to open in full size.


With volume control pots:
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 26th December 2013, 12:02 AM   #488
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Hello,

Merry Christmas everyone!

I read all your instructions here on how you can make the Z5500 subwoofer an active independent sub, but i can't trust my skills in electronics and i even don't have what i need to make the modifications.

Is anyone willing to help me and create an adapter to use the Z5500 sub on an AVR with pre-out RCA, please? not for nothing, of course.

I can make the payment via PayPal, i really need this adapter and here in Romania i don't have any chance to get it.

Thanks, Robert
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Old 4th January 2014, 01:43 PM   #489
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Default Got mine working - now some fine tuning

Hi folks,

Thanks a lot for this great thread!! It helped me to get my R512 (early clip) running again after a lightning strike wrecked my Pod. I first connected pin 7 to +5v on the pre-amp board. Worked but gave some crackling noise in quiet moments. Then I did it like Toffmonster did it in Post #312 as I have exactly the same board. This gives a cleaner sound although LFr distorts as soon as the volume is set to more than 30% (windows 7) and setting the volume to 100% only gives my a moderate output volume with many distortions. I checked the voltage of the orange cable and it's not 5V but more like 3.5V. Is it possible that by connecting the orange cable to the resistor like in post #312 drops the voltage for the pre-amp so it can't work with louder signals? Then the solution with a 7805 connected to 8V would be a better solution. What's your experience? Can you get the same punch out of the box with no distortions with a 7805?
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Old 13th January 2014, 09:43 PM   #490
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Join Date: Jan 2014
hello,

well i replaced a bad solder on a cap and my documentation wasn't that great starting out. Anyway, i am putting it back together and i forgot the order of the wires in the clamps coming from the main board and the toroidal transformer, two black and one blue from the board, with the opposite coming from the transformer. Now i see from pictures its grouped in a set of blacks, a set of blues and then one blue and one black wire in the clamp. Anyone have a picture or can explain the order quick?

Thanks
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