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Old 10th October 2011, 06:47 AM   #341
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by nito092 View Post
I'm sorry to disturb but I need help both of you, beside the big blue capacitors are located resistors R21 and R22 would be possible to tell me the colors or values ​​that have such resistance to your pcb? I ask because my Z5500 are charred

sorry for my bad English
R21 = R22 = 36 Ohm, +/-5%

If these resistors are burned also need to replace the stabilizer 79M18A (U9) and 78M18A (U8).
Also, check for damage does not have diodes D15 and D16.


If your set still does not start check the Graetz bridge (D18).

Good luck
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Old 11th October 2011, 04:07 AM   #342
nito092 is offline nito092  Venezuela
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by scooby117 View Post
R21 = R22 = 36 Ohm, +/-5%

If these resistors are burned also need to replace the stabilizer 79M18A (U9) and 78M18A (U8).
Also, check for damage does not have diodes D15 and D16.


If your set still does not start check the Graetz bridge (D18).

Good luck

Thank you, thank you very much, as I tell them to come in a few days when I have time
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Old 12th October 2011, 12:17 AM   #343
fluxarc is offline fluxarc  Canada
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Hi everyone. I recently acquired a Z-5500 speaker set without a controller. I ordered a couple bypass cables from eBay (in case I get another Z-5500 set without a controller for cheap). I hooked it up to my computer and discovered that the front-left channel was around 21db lower than the rest (which is a huge amount!). Using the second bypass cable doesn't make a difference.

I can compensate it with my computer by cranking that channel up and the remaining channels down and it works; however, I was wondering if anyone knows why this is happening?

Is it "turned down" or could it be an electronic issue like a fried capacitor or worse (like an IC?) Thanks in advance to whatever help anyone can provide.
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Old 17th October 2011, 01:07 AM   #344
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Join Date: Sep 2011
So I opened my Logitech Z5500 sub, i noticed that there was black on the insulation of the box...but i couldnt find any burnt chips or deformed capacitors anywhere?
Everytime I put a fuse in, it blows within 1-2 seconds (not even enough time to turn the control pod on, the red light around the power button came on for a second tho...u know when the control pod is powered off it is red)

Well I cant figure it out at all...Keeps blowing fuses, and It seems like it is impossible..

SO...I am going to attempt to use my Logitech Z680 Sub, with my Z5500 Control pod... Im guessing I could do this by modifying the pin order?

Has anyone done this? Did it work?

If so please let me know, it would help me out so much!!!

If worst case scenario comes and i am unable to use my z5500 control pod, would there be any way to hook up a regular wire like everyone is doing to bypass their z5500 control pods??

I found the pinout chart for the z5500 on this site, i will search for z680...

PLEASE IF ANYONE HAS DONE THIS, Successfully, or not, please let me know!!!
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Old 17th October 2011, 08:54 PM   #345
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by kencamo View Post
So I opened my Logitech Z5500 sub, i noticed that there was black on the insulation of the box...but i couldnt find any burnt chips or deformed capacitors anywhere?
Everytime I put a fuse in, it blows within 1-2 seconds (not even enough time to turn the control pod on, the red light around the power button came on for a second tho...u know when the control pod is powered off it is red)

Well I cant figure it out at all...Keeps blowing fuses, and It seems like it is impossible..

SO...I am going to attempt to use my Logitech Z680 Sub, with my Z5500 Control pod... Im guessing I could do this by modifying the pin order?

Has anyone done this? Did it work?

If so please let me know, it would help me out so much!!!

If worst case scenario comes and i am unable to use my z5500 control pod, would there be any way to hook up a regular wire like everyone is doing to bypass their z5500 control pods??

I found the pinout chart for the z5500 on this site, i will search for z680...

PLEASE IF ANYONE HAS DONE THIS, Successfully, or not, please let me know!!!
Insert the larger fuse and let tranzysotr burst, which is defective. Of course you have to control the the course of events and there is a risk that damage to something else.

If you prefer a safer method to measure in hand and go to work ...
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Old 21st October 2011, 02:05 PM   #346
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Join Date: Dec 2006
for zombieryder

I saw that you have replaced the cs494003-cqz dsp. What was your problem exactly ?

Because mine, after more than five years of use, in a random manner but after some time (maybe 1 hour) the control pod suddenly turn to black rectangles on the 2x20 characters display the back light is on and the power light is blue, and no sound anymore (with a "pop" when it occurs), like if the control pod is switching the power amp to standby. After about 5 to 10 seconds, the control pod goes to power off (red light) but the lcd always diplays the black rectangles (without backlight). I have to manually switch power off with the mechanical switch on the sub, wait 10 seconds, and switch power back on and the problem disapears.

It seems like a cpu crash, so I'm thinking to the cs494003-cqz because it's the more current drawing chip and it is running hot...

What do you think ?
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Old 23rd October 2011, 12:05 PM   #347
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxxximatoze View Post
for zombieryder

I saw that you have replaced the cs494003-cqz dsp. What was your problem exactly ?

Because mine, after more than five years of use, in a random manner but after some time (maybe 1 hour) the control pod suddenly turn to black rectangles on the 2x20 characters display the back light is on and the power light is blue, and no sound anymore (with a "pop" when it occurs), like if the control pod is switching the power amp to standby. After about 5 to 10 seconds, the control pod goes to power off (red light) but the lcd always diplays the black rectangles (without backlight). I have to manually switch power off with the mechanical switch on the sub, wait 10 seconds, and switch power back on and the problem disapears.

It seems like a cpu crash, so I'm thinking to the cs494003-cqz because it's the more current drawing chip and it is running hot...

What do you think ?
i did not replace, i reflowed it with heatgun. It is possible u might have the same problem as i did cuz the pod wud go nuts randomly and wud lose sound with pop and give weird display.
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Old 2nd November 2011, 04:07 AM   #348
nito092 is offline nito092  Venezuela
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by scooby117 View Post
R21 = R22 = 36 Ohm, +/-5%

If these resistors are burned also need to replace the stabilizer 79M18A (U9) and 78M18A (U8).
Also, check for damage does not have diodes D15 and D16.


If your set still does not start check the Graetz bridge (D18).

Good luck
Quote:
Originally Posted by nito092 View Post
Thank you, thank you very much, as I tell them to come in a few days when I have time
Hey guys, good with great joy that I come to comment and repaired my Z5500, in my case I only had to replace the resistors R21 and R22 not got the 36ohm and 39ohm I put some of I have something more than a week testing and all OK , thank you very much guys really are my heroes

sorry for my bad English

scooby117: thank thank thank thank
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Old 2nd November 2011, 03:03 PM   #349
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombieryder View Post
i did not replace, i reflowed it with heatgun. It is possible u might have the same problem as i did cuz the pod wud go nuts randomly and wud lose sound with pop and give weird display.
OK, I will try this as soon as possible. Thx again.
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Old 6th November 2011, 06:24 PM   #350
SLANGza is offline SLANGza  South Africa
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Cape Town
Greetings people, I am one of they guys that are having the "Dead Pod" issue, PID: R528. I took the unit to an Audio repair shop and they could not fixed it and reffered me to Logitech. Unit is out of warantee so renders it useless.

I was wondering if this is not maybe the reason why the pod would be dead?
Z5500 power-on problem! - Logitech Forums
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