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Old 28th September 2011, 06:25 AM   #331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toffmonster View Post
Interesting. If possible, could you, please, take pictures of the culprit chip and describe the process of reflowing in details? Maybe not all is lost for my decoder here as well.
Thank you in advance!
cs494003-cq is the decoder chip its the largest chip cant miss it. First thing u should remove the vol knob its pretty tricky (nasty little bugger) be patient take ur time otherwise u can crack the board or rip tracing off (tip put something between the board and knob) it is important to remove the knob becuz during reflow the heat can melt the front plastic panel, once the knob is remove flip open the board and front panel like a wallet. U'll need heat gun, alluminium foil, and a fine brush. Clean the pins with the brush thoroughly. Next cover the caps that are close to the decoder, after that make a wall with alluminium foil surrounding the chip in u-shape, it should be about 2cm tall enough to isolate the heat from spreading to the caps, the opening will face outside the board. Make sure that the wall doesnt fall during the reflow, dont use tape it will melt. If u have no idea about reflow then check youtube or practice on old pcb. I used a cheap heat gun, set it to the lowest level heat and air. Gradually build the heat by keeping the heat gun far then bring it close slowly, took. When the solder joints are shiny thats when u slowly pull the gun away from the chip gradually, took about.1 and half min. During this process the board should be stationary. Let it cool down for 10 to 15 mins. Assemble then reset to default, pink test and ur done. I dont wanna open again to take pics but i can do it on other pcb for example if u like. I only have the decoder chip pic taken previously.
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Old 29th September 2011, 03:48 AM   #332
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Default Need help!!! Logitech Z5500

Seems like you guys are a bunch of EXPERTS with research with the Z5500 system...
A tragic lightning strike to my house caused my speakers to blow...

I checked the fuse which was blown replaced with a correct fuse and that blew as well... (instantly, never even turned on, not even a slight light or noise)
Not under warranty, and worst of all they discontinued making these speakers!!! So the new Logitech speakers are horrible in comparaison. (the 906's)

So I was hoping with all of your research maybe someone could help me figure out what is wrong with my system. What would be the normal culprit in such a situation, and how I would go about fixing it???

I do have a complete Z-680 system (except the control pod)

If i am not able to repair the Z5500, maybe it would be possible to use the Pod from the Z5500, to hook it to the Z-680 Sub?

Ideally would like to fix the Z5500 sub/amp/pod or whatever the culprit is.
but if i cant i wouldnt mind using the Z-680...

If i cant do neither, then I will have to try to search all over for a Z5500, (only place online is selling on Amazon for almost $1000 bux!!!)

Thanks in advance for your help!!!
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Old 29th September 2011, 10:28 AM   #333
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by kencamo View Post
Seems like you guys are a bunch of EXPERTS with research with the Z5500 system...
A tragic lightning strike to my house caused my speakers to blow...

I checked the fuse which was blown replaced with a correct fuse and that blew as well... (instantly, never even turned on, not even a slight light or noise)
Not under warranty, and worst of all they discontinued making these speakers!!! So the new Logitech speakers are horrible in comparaison. (the 906's)

So I was hoping with all of your research maybe someone could help me figure out what is wrong with my system. What would be the normal culprit in such a situation, and how I would go about fixing it???

I do have a complete Z-680 system (except the control pod)

If i am not able to repair the Z5500, maybe it would be possible to use the Pod from the Z5500, to hook it to the Z-680 Sub?

Ideally would like to fix the Z5500 sub/amp/pod or whatever the culprit is.
but if i cant i wouldnt mind using the Z-680...

If i cant do neither, then I will have to try to search all over for a Z5500, (only place online is selling on Amazon for almost $1000 bux!!!)

Thanks in advance for your help!!!
my guess is tat ur house electrical wiring is shorting from somewhere try on other phases with new fuse. if still it is doing the same thing ur transformer is busted.
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Old 29th September 2011, 09:50 PM   #334
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Default z5500 repair blog

Hi!

I have a Z5500 (PID: R516) with a lightning damage.
That means: Control-Pod is broken and some parts on the amp and preamp.
I'm blogging the repair progress on Manni's Z-5500 Projekt.
It's written on german, but the infos in the pics are english ;-)

greez Manni
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Old 5th October 2011, 01:31 AM   #335
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The sound comes only from the central satellites. Do you have an idea how to fix it?
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Old 5th October 2011, 07:42 PM   #336
nito092 is offline nito092  Venezuela
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stabio View Post
Hello. I want use my sub from Z5500 with Yamaha rx-740 without stupid POD.
I make circuit on TDA 7294. Subwoofer is turn on and i have sound but very quaiet. How i can make that sound louder?
Sorry for my bad english.

Click the image to open in full size.
hello, (google translator) sorry can not help your problem but maybe see if I can help you in mine, could you give me the value of the resistors R21 and R22 are on the back of the PCB samples in the photo?

Thank you very much and sorry for my English
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Old 6th October 2011, 07:52 AM   #337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooby117 View Post
The sound comes only from the central satellites. Do you have an idea how to fix it?
Which revision you have and what modifications (pin connections) you made??
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Old 8th October 2011, 11:55 AM   #338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ergei View Post
Which revision you have and what modifications (pin connections) you made??
I bought a panel together with damaged electronics subwoofer (damage lies in the fact that it works only center speaker).
Equipment tested with another control panel (same situation), and my panel, I tested with different electronics and function normally.
This is a new revision - illustrative photo underneath.

http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/9...1275582520.jpg

I do not want me to believe that all the TDA7294 and operational amplifiers have died.

In what may be a problem?
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Old 8th October 2011, 03:49 PM   #339
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by scooby117 View Post
I bought a panel together with damaged electronics subwoofer (damage lies in the fact that it works only center speaker).
Equipment tested with another control panel (same situation), and my panel, I tested with different electronics and function normally.
This is a new revision - illustrative photo underneath.

http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/9...1275582520.jpg

I do not want me to believe that all the TDA7294 and operational amplifiers have died.

In what may be a problem?
You have a complete different revision than mine, so i can't help you that much ... To activate all channels of the amp on my revision, i had to feed the orange, blue and white wire (cable from preamp to amp) with about +5VDC. If i only feed the orange one, just the center box works ... maybe thats your problem.
If that doesn't work out, you have to make some live-measurements with a voltmeter on the TDA7294-chips (with caution!!!). Check the supply-voltage etc. on each TDA and compare this measurements with the working one ... then you will hopefully see whats wrong ;-)

Good luck!
greez manni
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Old 10th October 2011, 05:58 AM   #340
nito092 is offline nito092  Venezuela
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by scooby117 View Post
I bought a panel together with damaged electronics subwoofer (damage lies in the fact that it works only center speaker).
Equipment tested with another control panel (same situation), and my panel, I tested with different electronics and function normally.
This is a new revision - illustrative photo underneath.

http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/9...1275582520.jpg

I do not want me to believe that all the TDA7294 and operational amplifiers have died.

In what may be a problem?
I'm sorry to disturb but I need help both of you, beside the big blue capacitors are located resistors R21 and R22 would be possible to tell me the colors or values ​​that have such resistance to your pcb? I ask because my Z5500 are charred

sorry for my bad English
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