Newbie here- about to buy GC kit... (have COMBED this board for info)
I have a 300Va toroid from an old outboard Velodyne power amp.
There are 4 pairs of leads + the sleeved primaries.
-2x20V and 2x24V
My question is: how do I connect these to a kit PS?
Should I leave any unused, etc.
Thanks!
P.S. I'll be bi-amping with the GC, a pair of current hungry ATC 4ohm.
I have a 300Va toroid from an old outboard Velodyne power amp.
There are 4 pairs of leads + the sleeved primaries.
-2x20V and 2x24V
My question is: how do I connect these to a kit PS?
Should I leave any unused, etc.
Thanks!
P.S. I'll be bi-amping with the GC, a pair of current hungry ATC 4ohm.
AndrewT said:
The formula I use for getting from Vac to Vdc gives me a different number from yours.
Mine is Vac x 1.4 - 1.4 = Vdc
It never failed to check on many actual transformers I used, after rectification and filtering. Before loading it, of course, as that could go lower in DC if trafo is not too good.
In above case would be:
20Vac = 26.6Vdc
24Vac = 32.2Vdc
Carlos
Re: Still unclear of connection
I am not familiar with that particular toroid. I might say you can do that. What I don't know is if you would be using the whole 300VA capability on those 24v leads.
The 20v leads might be in the same wire as the 24v leads, or they might be separate. Measure continuity from the 20v lead to the 24v lead.
If they are the same wire, it should be alright. If they are not it would be a question of knowing which line is using the thickest wire and is ready to handle the higher current. That's the one you should go for.
steveline said:
I am not familiar with that particular toroid. I might say you can do that. What I don't know is if you would be using the whole 300VA capability on those 24v leads.
The 20v leads might be in the same wire as the 24v leads, or they might be separate. Measure continuity from the 20v lead to the 24v lead.
If they are the same wire, it should be alright. If they are not it would be a question of knowing which line is using the thickest wire and is ready to handle the higher current. That's the one you should go for.
Hi,carlmart said:
the difference is easily explained.
I added on the regulation of about 6% and only subtracted 0.7V for the diode drop.
Oops i told him that dual regulators are required for isolation of the two audio grounds. So, reduce my numbers by another 0.7V and you still have to take account of the transformer regulation.
Re: Exact lead info
The wiring colours would suggest to me that this is a 24-20-0-20-24 amp. In other words the two 24v taps are the ends of the winding, with taps at 20v.
Is it possible the old Velodyne had a MOSFET output stage? This would explain the windings - the 24V taps would be used on the frontend, and the 20v taps used for the output stage.
Either 20v or 24v will do for the chipamp kit. Simply tape up the ones you're not using.
steveline said:
The wiring colours would suggest to me that this is a 24-20-0-20-24 amp. In other words the two 24v taps are the ends of the winding, with taps at 20v.
Is it possible the old Velodyne had a MOSFET output stage? This would explain the windings - the 24V taps would be used on the frontend, and the 20v taps used for the output stage.
Either 20v or 24v will do for the chipamp kit. Simply tape up the ones you're not using.
Nordic said:
What part is theoretical? What I am saying is that before knowing where to load what you need to know if the whole current can go through it.
You can parallel them if they are separate, and even so still have to know if they can hold the same current.
It only takes a DMM to check on that.
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