I have 2 BrianGT 3886 chipamps with 2 PSUs connected to 2-28 volt torroids.(measured 70 volt rail to rail on each amp)
I want to connect this setup to my outdoor Bose 151s. The Bose are rated 40watt IEC at 4 ohm. Wire length is about 40 feet 16 gague.
The input to the amp will be either an Ipod Shuffle, 30G ipod or Sansa MP3 player.
My stepson already melted two of these speakers with the 30G ipod. What is the best way to protect the new set from the same fate?(I was fortunate to be able to exchange them for a new set.)
Thanks for any replies.
I want to connect this setup to my outdoor Bose 151s. The Bose are rated 40watt IEC at 4 ohm. Wire length is about 40 feet 16 gague.
The input to the amp will be either an Ipod Shuffle, 30G ipod or Sansa MP3 player.
My stepson already melted two of these speakers with the 30G ipod. What is the best way to protect the new set from the same fate?(I was fortunate to be able to exchange them for a new set.)
Thanks for any replies.
Hi,
run a single mono signal from the amp to a series pair of the little Bose speakers.
That way you present an 8ohm load to the amplifier, you reduce the losses in the cables and you have a nominal 80W rating for the pair of speakers.
Outdoors the bass response will be way down. Do not try to boost the bass to make them "sound" right. That will overload them and risk blowing again.
Do not bridge the amp, just use one channel.
run a single mono signal from the amp to a series pair of the little Bose speakers.
That way you present an 8ohm load to the amplifier, you reduce the losses in the cables and you have a nominal 80W rating for the pair of speakers.
Outdoors the bass response will be way down. Do not try to boost the bass to make them "sound" right. That will overload them and risk blowing again.
Do not bridge the amp, just use one channel.
richie00boy said:
Through the amp, obviously.
The source probably isn't especially relevant, unless it was swinging enough voltage to clip the input, in which case it could be pretty hard on the tweeters.
As long as there's no major defects, like DC on the source, it probably doesn't much matter from one to the next.
A compressor or limiter is the wrong answer. Just find a way to keep the kid from cranking the thing up, if that's the cause.
If it's an electronic problem, fix it.
My bet is someone just enjoys the sound of clipping at max volume. That seems far too common these days.
-Nick
A simple way tp offer some protection is by using an in-line fuse. If your speakers are rated at 40w @ 4 ohms, then the current through them would be a bit over 3 amps running at maximum. Use a 3 amp fast blow fuse. If you listen to your music loud with a lot of bass, then you might have to keep a few extra fuses around, just in case. You might try a 2 or 2.5 amp slo-blo fuse if the 3 amp blows too often. Or turn down the volume a bit. It isn't foolproof, but it's cheap and effective.
sherlock
sherlock
BWRX said:
This is probably a good way to do it, though I can just imagine a kid boosting everything on the eq to compensate. More clipping, blown tweeters.
Well, it's not likely to help with this particular problem, but it may give better sound on devices without enough current capability on their outputs.ronjodu said:
-Nick
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