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Old 28th March 2007, 06:40 PM   #1
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Default car audio problem

hi im hooking up my system this year in my 99 yukon ive just built a new sub encloser. re did my wiring making sure i have clean and tight connections. The problem im having is when the amp is on and pushing my subs my voltage drops to around 11.5 volts. My amps are a colossus xx 3200 watts rms running 4 12" kicker solo baric l5's and a colossusxi 2400 watts rms running 2 sets of mb quart q series componet sets 5 1/4" . I have put a 190 amp alternator in my truck made by ohio generrator and 3 yellow top batteries. 1/0 gauge running throughout my truck someone told me if i added a cap it would help me out and others said it will make the problem worse wondering if someone might be able to point me in the right direction i dont really wanna add another alternator which is $600 and the bracket at $400 so wondering if i might be able to do something else to help the problem any help would greatly be appericated
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Old 28th March 2007, 08:52 PM   #2
TO-3 is offline TO-3  Peru
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Default Re: car audio problem

Quote:
Originally posted by mike49504
hi im hooking up my system this year in my 99 yukon ive just built a new sub encloser. re did my wiring making sure i have clean and tight connections. The problem im having is when the amp is on and pushing my subs my voltage drops to around 11.5 volts. My amps are a colossus xx 3200 watts rms running 4 12" kicker solo baric l5's and a colossusxi 2400 watts rms running 2 sets of mb quart q series componet sets 5 1/4" . I have put a 190 amp alternator in my truck made by ohio generrator and 3 yellow top batteries. 1/0 gauge running throughout my truck someone told me if i added a cap it would help me out and others said it will make the problem worse wondering if someone might be able to point me in the right direction i dont really wanna add another alternator which is $600 and the bracket at $400 so wondering if i might be able to do something else to help the problem any help would greatly be appericated
If you are turning the volume up on the HU you are going to need a much larger alternator. 12V*190A = 2280W. If those numbers for the amplifiers are RMS, then they want about 5600W.
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Old 28th March 2007, 09:55 PM   #3
Clipped is offline Clipped  Thailand
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you tried ground strapping your engine? it helped alot for me, didnt get rid of the drop completely, but made things better.
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Old 29th March 2007, 07:01 AM   #4
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didnt try ground strapping my engine yet ill try that and see what happens. I have one more question im running a 2 channel amp to 2 sets of componets and im bi-wiring them so there is 4 positive and 4 negative wire that go to one channel and same with the other when i try to put 4 wires in the amp i get crappy loose connections wondering what the best way is to run the 4 wire to the amp butt splice them down to one wire to the amp or what?
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Old 29th March 2007, 01:58 PM   #5
beerman is offline beerman  United States
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It's easier to crimp/twist/setscrrew a spade connector on one wire. Solder the other wires to that one, wrap in tape.
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Old 29th March 2007, 03:05 PM   #6
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With high-end components that have the ability to bi-amp them, you have to use a 4-channel per pair of speakers. Using a 2-channel amp on 2 pairs of speakers you would not bi-amp(bi-wire) them. You would just hook them up without using the second pair of inputs on the crossovers. This way you will only have two wires going to each terminal of the amp, and hence, less mess.
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Old 29th March 2007, 08:41 PM   #7
Clipped is offline Clipped  Thailand
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i can imagine the clutter running 4 wires to 1 terminal...

alternatively , you can run wires to each set of woofer inputs..then parrallel wires to each tweeter input..from each woofer input

for each side.

make sure you differentiate between input and output...

if you install the input wires via the outputs, it will change the frequency response of the passive network....

the outputs should only go to the speakers
------------------------------------------------------
after you have the inputs sorted out...its time to adjust the phase of the speakers by selecting the polarity..via the outputs.

wiring up the speakers via the passive network can be tricky...

ignore the polarity marked on the box...'USE YOUR EARS'....the path length differences between front L/R...and rear L/R can be huge.

this will entail switching back and forth between polarities +/-

start with the right front speaker (american left hand drive)
switch the polarity back and forth until the midbass feels the most solid....you may want to use a song with strong midbass.

then select the polarity of the left speaker, until you get the strongest midbass response....switching back and forth like the first speaker.

then do the rear right speaker , also switching back and forth until you get the strongest midbass...

then do the last rear left speaker......

then repeat for the tweeters...also listening for the most impact...tweeter wise.

---------------------------------------------------------
this is a technique to gather the most midbass, that will hit in unison... if done correctly, it will sound like one low powered 10"

BUT sometimes it is desireable to have spatial midrange and sometimes it requires exactly the opposite...its up to your taste in music...and dependent on the judging criteria if competing...

i know it sounds confusing, but if you take your time..it will be worth it....sometimes its easier to feel the pressure on your chest, then your ears...

do the same for the subs...
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Old 30th March 2007, 12:16 AM   #8
Jexx is offline Jexx  United States
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600$ for an alt and 400$ to mount it? Maybe it's just me, but that sounds outrageous, even for a Yukon. How many people have given you quotes? And what kind of alt were they offering for that price?
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Old 31st March 2007, 02:07 PM   #9
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Ohio Generator makes good stuff .

Stinger makes good batteries to help with the voltage drop.
Optima batteries would help you out to.

Well doing more searching i was able to find out that the equivalent to the Stinger SP1000 is the Odyssey PC1200MJT.

I found the cheapest price at BatteryMart.com for $145 for the battery and ground shipping is $14 to us. not bad for $160.

Ben
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Old 11th April 2007, 08:59 PM   #10
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I'de assume you need A. a bigger alternator or B. another one............I have an alternator that I load tested to 188 amps in my blazer with a A18001DT sub amp and my two seaker amps.....and with system all the way up all lights,heater, and defroster on im just starting to pull into the 13 volt range BUT before I installed the new ALT. I was driving around in the 11-10V range.........Also Hows the alt installed on yours as in what size wire are you running from alt to batt. Im using 4 GA (need bigger) and 4GA groun right off the battery along with the factory ground
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