Hello,
I have a Rockford Fosgate series1460 sd 4 channel amp.
Would anyone by chance have a owners and/or Service manual for this one. I did some google searching and a search here. I did not find much info at all. I do know it will put out 30x4 @ 4 ohms.
I will be emailing Rockford Fosgate for info and I already sent ampguts pix as well. I will post here too.
Thanks for any info. Also, what is the best way to remove these pesky compression clips? Thanks...
I have a Rockford Fosgate series1460 sd 4 channel amp.
Would anyone by chance have a owners and/or Service manual for this one. I did some google searching and a search here. I did not find much info at all. I do know it will put out 30x4 @ 4 ohms.
I will be emailing Rockford Fosgate for info and I already sent ampguts pix as well. I will post here too.
Thanks for any info. Also, what is the best way to remove these pesky compression clips? Thanks...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You don't see many series 1 amps. What are the symptoms that lead you to believe it's defective?
The clips are easy to remove. Get a screwdriver under the top of the clip and carefully pry up.
Look at the two preamp boards behind the RCAs. If there is any corrosion around the silver surface mount capacitors, the repair may be difficult. Many times, on the older punch amps, the caps leaked and caused the traces to be eaten away. The copper/fiberglass boards were easier to repair than the ceramic boards but can still be a challenge.
The clips are easy to remove. Get a screwdriver under the top of the clip and carefully pry up.
Look at the two preamp boards behind the RCAs. If there is any corrosion around the silver surface mount capacitors, the repair may be difficult. Many times, on the older punch amps, the caps leaked and caused the traces to be eaten away. The copper/fiberglass boards were easier to repair than the ceramic boards but can still be a challenge.
Hi Perry, thanks for the reply.
In a few minutes I'll pry th clips off to get a look see. But the reason I think there is a problem is, when you look at the fuse it is melted a little. I did not see any corrosion on the preamp boards or any leaky caps.
Once I get the board out of the heat sink, Ill know what is going on and post a photo.
And no, you don't see many Series 1 amps. The last time I has seen one was 1994.
Thanks.
In a few minutes I'll pry th clips off to get a look see. But the reason I think there is a problem is, when you look at the fuse it is melted a little. I did not see any corrosion on the preamp boards or any leaky caps.
Once I get the board out of the heat sink, Ill know what is going on and post a photo.
And no, you don't see many Series 1 amps. The last time I has seen one was 1994.
Thanks.
Well I know one thing is for sure, There is nothing wrong that I can see on the bottom. There is a poor solder job on the fuse holder that I can fix later.
The caps don't look like there leaking at all. But I can not get a reading on my DMM from the output chips or 4 of the 6 power supply chips.
Ill post a photo of them later with part numbers. Right now I have to do some running around, but will be back later today.
The caps don't look like there leaking at all. But I can not get a reading on my DMM from the output chips or 4 of the 6 power supply chips.
Ill post a photo of them later with part numbers. Right now I have to do some running around, but will be back later today.
Hello,
I did email Rockford about this amp last night and have yet to here a reply. I will call them today and see if I get a response.
I finally removed the clips and pulled the board. I cleaned off all the thermal goop and started taking photo's. As of right now, I beleave it has been repaired before.
This is my first amp repair, so things will be interesting. I am sorry about the poor pics, but here is a new one.
Any info and help would be great. Thanks.
I did email Rockford about this amp last night and have yet to here a reply. I will call them today and see if I get a response.
I finally removed the clips and pulled the board. I cleaned off all the thermal goop and started taking photo's. As of right now, I beleave it has been repaired before.
This is my first amp repair, so things will be interesting. I am sorry about the poor pics, but here is a new one.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Any info and help would be great. Thanks.
If there are no broken leads on any of the components that were mounted to the heatsink, measure the resistance between the legs of the individual power supply transistors (MTA30N06E). If you read anything near zero ohms between any of the three legs of a single transistor, it needs to be pulled and checked out of the board.
If there are no shorted transistors, apply power to the amp (it would be better to have the transistors clamped to the heatsink -- less chance of damage if some component begins to overheat). Set your meter to DC volts. Connect the black lead to the chassis ground terminal of the amp and measure the voltage on each leg of the PWM IC. It's likely a TL494. Look up the datasheet (Google) to see the pin configuration. Touch the red meter lead to each leg of the PWM IC and post the list of voltages for all legs.
Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin...
If there are no shorted transistors, apply power to the amp (it would be better to have the transistors clamped to the heatsink -- less chance of damage if some component begins to overheat). Set your meter to DC volts. Connect the black lead to the chassis ground terminal of the amp and measure the voltage on each leg of the PWM IC. It's likely a TL494. Look up the datasheet (Google) to see the pin configuration. Touch the red meter lead to each leg of the PWM IC and post the list of voltages for all legs.
Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin...
Thanks Perry.
I did a quick measurement and the outer legs of the transistors did not read anything at all. I will pull them as soon as a can, to get a reading.
As of right now my soldering iron died and I will not be able to get a new one for a few days, but will update if things change.
I will let you know. Oh, I could not see a TL494 but found a TL594CD. I think it is safe to assume that is it? There is a LM339d on the same card as well...
I did a quick measurement and the outer legs of the transistors did not read anything at all. I will pull them as soon as a can, to get a reading.
As of right now my soldering iron died and I will not be able to get a new one for a few days, but will update if things change.
I will let you know. Oh, I could not see a TL494 but found a TL594CD. I think it is safe to assume that is it? There is a LM339d on the same card as well...
You should have read 'something' when checking the transistors. Touch your meter leads together to make usre it goes to near zero ohms.
You need to check for shorts (zero ohm connections) between all of the legs of the transistors (all possible combinations), not just the outside legs.
The 594 is the same basic IC as the 494.
The 339 is a quad comparator and is used for over/under voltage shutdown, thermal shutdown and turn-on delay/muting.
If you're going to continue to do this type of work, do yourrself a favor and buy a good iron. A Weller WP35 would be a good inexpensive iron. A Weller WES51 is more expensive but is an excellent iron. Having a good quality iron makes the work much easier.
You need to check for shorts (zero ohm connections) between all of the legs of the transistors (all possible combinations), not just the outside legs.
The 594 is the same basic IC as the 494.
The 339 is a quad comparator and is used for over/under voltage shutdown, thermal shutdown and turn-on delay/muting.
If you're going to continue to do this type of work, do yourrself a favor and buy a good iron. A Weller WP35 would be a good inexpensive iron. A Weller WES51 is more expensive but is an excellent iron. Having a good quality iron makes the work much easier.
Hi,
About the iron, It was my trusty 10yr old Ratshack. Not bad for were I got it...
Any way, After doing some more DMM testing, I found that the transistors would read when I set it on its 20K or 200K setting. All of them did. so I got a bug up my butt and pulled my battery out of my busted truck and benched it after I got a soldering gun from next door to fix the fuse holder.
I am pleased to say that 3 of the 4 channels do work. Unfortunately, ch 1 is really buzzy, crackly, and pops in & out at a very rapid pace. I took a close look at the preamp card and found some corrosion on one of the surface mount caps.
I've never messed with any SMD parts and quite frankly, I'm lost at this point. I can't seem to read the numbers on the parts either.
This is a lot better that it was doing when I got it, so I'm doing pretty good for now. Thanks for the assistance on figuring the readings.
About the iron, It was my trusty 10yr old Ratshack. Not bad for were I got it...
Any way, After doing some more DMM testing, I found that the transistors would read when I set it on its 20K or 200K setting. All of them did. so I got a bug up my butt and pulled my battery out of my busted truck and benched it after I got a soldering gun from next door to fix the fuse holder.
I am pleased to say that 3 of the 4 channels do work. Unfortunately, ch 1 is really buzzy, crackly, and pops in & out at a very rapid pace. I took a close look at the preamp card and found some corrosion on one of the surface mount caps.
I've never messed with any SMD parts and quite frankly, I'm lost at this point. I can't seem to read the numbers on the parts either.
This is a lot better that it was doing when I got it, so I'm doing pretty good for now. Thanks for the assistance on figuring the readings.
That noise you hear is precisely the problem that the corrosion can cause.
To remove the SMD capacitors, apply new solder to both terminals. Heat one side and very gently tilt the cap to lift the terminal from the pad. Do the same for the other side. Continue doing it until it is free. Clean the area under the cap with acetone and a cotton swab. If there are any open traces, you'll need to repair them. If there are no open traces, replacing the cap may be all that's needed to get it working.
If one cap has leaked, the others are very likely leaking and will cause a problem in time. This was a serious problem with these and the HD series amps. If you can remove the caps without damaging the board, I'd suggest replacing all of the electrolytic SMD caps on that board.
To remove the SMD capacitors, apply new solder to both terminals. Heat one side and very gently tilt the cap to lift the terminal from the pad. Do the same for the other side. Continue doing it until it is free. Clean the area under the cap with acetone and a cotton swab. If there are any open traces, you'll need to repair them. If there are no open traces, replacing the cap may be all that's needed to get it working.
If one cap has leaked, the others are very likely leaking and will cause a problem in time. This was a serious problem with these and the HD series amps. If you can remove the caps without damaging the board, I'd suggest replacing all of the electrolytic SMD caps on that board.
Perry Babin said:
I had a feeling you were going to say that.
I was looking in to doing this very thing anyway. One question, What wattage of iron do you suggest for working with SMD components? I do know that if its to hot, I can damage the traces.
Thanks for your help Perry, you are a real asset on this board. I just cant wait to get this thing in tip-top shape...
Wattage is not the issue. As you said, the temperature is the issue. Actually, it's the temperature and the length of time the heat's applied to the pads. Moderate heat applied for a long period of time (as when the iron's not up to the task) is more likely to do damage than higher heat for short periods of time.
Also, some boards are of better quality. For example, I've never had a problem using an iron at 850°F for surface mount parts on the older MTX or Rockfords boards. On other boards, I've had pads lift at 650°F.
Boards with heavy (thick - 2oz+ copper) traces tend to fare better. Thin boards (~1/32" thick - like some driver boards) are more likely to be damaged. It's partly because the thin fiberglass substrate won't soak the heat like thick boards and partly because they typically have thin copper (as thin as 1/2oz copper).
For boards that are prone to damage, you can use a solder alloy like ChipQuik. It allows you to remove solder at a very low temperature.
An iron that is not temperature controlled may get very hot. A 25 watt iron may be able to get to 800°+. If used on small, delicate traces, it may do damage. On large joints, it wouldn't have enough power to keep the tip above the melting point of the solder.
An iron like the WES51 is a 50 watt iron but it has a variable temperature that's very well controlled due to the thermistor in the tip. You can use it on delicate boards at low temperature settings with little chance of damaging the board. I realize that not everyone is willing to spend $100+ on a soldering iron but if you ever use one (Weller or any other brand), you'll kick yourself for not buying one sooner.
Even the WP35 is a good iron. It's simply not temperature controlled.
For the surface mount caps, as long as you work quickly and carefully, you should be able to remove the caps with little or no trouble.
Also, some boards are of better quality. For example, I've never had a problem using an iron at 850°F for surface mount parts on the older MTX or Rockfords boards. On other boards, I've had pads lift at 650°F.
Boards with heavy (thick - 2oz+ copper) traces tend to fare better. Thin boards (~1/32" thick - like some driver boards) are more likely to be damaged. It's partly because the thin fiberglass substrate won't soak the heat like thick boards and partly because they typically have thin copper (as thin as 1/2oz copper).
For boards that are prone to damage, you can use a solder alloy like ChipQuik. It allows you to remove solder at a very low temperature.
An iron that is not temperature controlled may get very hot. A 25 watt iron may be able to get to 800°+. If used on small, delicate traces, it may do damage. On large joints, it wouldn't have enough power to keep the tip above the melting point of the solder.
An iron like the WES51 is a 50 watt iron but it has a variable temperature that's very well controlled due to the thermistor in the tip. You can use it on delicate boards at low temperature settings with little chance of damaging the board. I realize that not everyone is willing to spend $100+ on a soldering iron but if you ever use one (Weller or any other brand), you'll kick yourself for not buying one sooner.
Even the WP35 is a good iron. It's simply not temperature controlled.
For the surface mount caps, as long as you work quickly and carefully, you should be able to remove the caps with little or no trouble.
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