HI I bought an orion 250 hcca car amp and i need to see if anyone has a schematic for it or that might be able to tell me what transistors go in the power supply like what the orignal part number is on the transistors due to the fact when i got the amp nothing was in there if anyone could help me out i would greatly appericate it
The first generation hcca amps used BJT transistors. Most of the later models used FETs. If it had a TL494/594 in the supply, it very likely had FETs originally but I've seen a few with the TLx94 IC that used BJTs in the supply. They generally used SMP60N06 FETs. I use IRF3205s when I rebuild the supplies.
If it has MPSA06/A56 drivers, the A56 drivers are likely blown. Replace both the A06 and A56 drivers for both groups of FETs. They're inexpensive and easy to change.
There's a 10 ohm resistor from the emitter of the A56 to ground. They often open.
If you can post a good quality photo of the amp, that would be useful if you need more help.
If it has MPSA06/A56 drivers, the A56 drivers are likely blown. Replace both the A06 and A56 drivers for both groups of FETs. They're inexpensive and easy to change.
There's a 10 ohm resistor from the emitter of the A56 to ground. They often open.
If you can post a good quality photo of the amp, that would be useful if you need more help.
thanks for the help with the transistors in the power supply the ones that were in it were ssp6n60 now a new question there are 2 chips at the end of the output side they are QFX333 and QFK326 just wondering what part number i can replace thoose with?? i would greatly appericate it if someone could help me out
its an older amp orion 250 hcca digital refrence it dosent have a pop top just power/ground and speaker wires comming out the side of the amp and for the outputs they are using 2n6488 and 2n6491 but at the end of the output sides the last 2 chips are QFX333 and QFK326 but thoose wont cross to anything so wondering if u might be able to tell me what part numbers i would need to replace them they are burt in half thanks
hi just wondering what else i check i put new 317's and 337's in th amp and the ones on the bottom i put a fep in and a fen chip in and for diodes on top a u1620 and a u1620r and all new outputs i only put in 2 power transistors per side ssp6n60 to fire up the amp to see if it would come on well it did and the power transistors got red hot almost instantly i had to put a new cap in also because the dumbass who had it before me put in backwards which fried the amp to begin with so im wondering what i should check next on it so the power transistore dont heat up i checked all the 10 ohm resistors and they all check fine if u could help me i would greatly appericate it
If it has two large rectifiers under the board, check those.
If they are OK (or don't exist), pull the rectifiers you replaced. Does it heat up?
If so, the driver transistors could be defective. The MPSA56s fail virtually every time the FETs fail. The 10 ohm resistor from the emitter of the A56s to ground must be within tolerance.
If it doesn't heat up, make sure you have the rectifiers installed in the proper location (positive/negative). The 1620R are the same as the FEN rectifiers.
If they are OK (or don't exist), pull the rectifiers you replaced. Does it heat up?
If so, the driver transistors could be defective. The MPSA56s fail virtually every time the FETs fail. The 10 ohm resistor from the emitter of the A56s to ground must be within tolerance.
If it doesn't heat up, make sure you have the rectifiers installed in the proper location (positive/negative). The 1620R are the same as the FEN rectifiers.
If the 56s get hot, there may be a solder bridge between the first and second legs of the power supply FET solder pads. For some reason, there are often bridges right at the edge of the board which can make them difficult to see.
If that's not the problem...
The a56 drivers pull the gate down to ground. If they're getting hot, it means that they're passing too much current. If it's not a solder bridge on the FET pads, something else likely is shorted to B+.
If that's not the problem...
The a56 drivers pull the gate down to ground. If they're getting hot, it means that they're passing too much current. If it's not a solder bridge on the FET pads, something else likely is shorted to B+.
orion
just the a56 is getting hot insanatly see im not sure where to go from there because when i bought the amp someone tried to fix it before me and put the cap in backwards so the posistive was on the neg rail and where the u1620 and 1620r is they had some weird part number and when i read the datasheet it was nowhere close to what was needed and when i used my friends scope it had wierd waves when i touched the pad with the probe switched the a56 a06 on side it looked fine on the scope other side still a shitty wave and the a56 heats up so wondering where i might check next
just the a56 is getting hot insanatly see im not sure where to go from there because when i bought the amp someone tried to fix it before me and put the cap in backwards so the posistive was on the neg rail and where the u1620 and 1620r is they had some weird part number and when i read the datasheet it was nowhere close to what was needed and when i used my friends scope it had wierd waves when i touched the pad with the probe switched the a56 a06 on side it looked fine on the scope other side still a shitty wave and the a56 heats up so wondering where i might check next
thanks for all your help i have another orion amp im gonna part out due to the traces on the circut board are missing and theres really no fixing it but i know the parts are good on the amp so as much time as i have invested into this 250hcca would it be wise just to rebuild the entire power supply of the amp? because the output side is disabled i pulled the diodes on the bottom and have the problem with thoose unhooked and no fets in the power supply side
The zeners are the silver devices in the image below. This is a 2150 but it should be close to what you have.
To rebuild the supply, there's generally not much that needs to be replaced other than the drivers, a few resistors and the FETs.
Don't just start replacing parts for no reason.
To rebuild the supply, there's generally not much that needs to be replaced other than the drivers, a few resistors and the FETs.
Don't just start replacing parts for no reason.
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