Sub/Amp Suggestions

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Sounds good,you sould look into some unregulated orion amps.They last forever and do not shut off or blow fuses and made in the u.s.a. Remember not the new orion they sold out a long time ago.Check out ebay and i have lots of them and live by them.I use to love old xtant for clear sound and looks.I still have a few x1001 and dx1001 witch are real 1000 watt amps and more. Now i just stick by orion.If you want to sell that broken amp i will take it off your hands,I have a bunch for parts and see lots of them broken.Hope you find something that works!
 
shallowfu said:
Sounds good,you sould look into some unregulated orion amps.They last forever and do not shut off or blow fuses and made in the u.s.a. Remember not the new orion they sold out a long time ago.Check out ebay and i have lots of them and live by them.I use to love old xtant for clear sound and looks.I still have a few x1001 and dx1001 witch are real 1000 watt amps and more. Now i just stick by orion.If you want to sell that broken amp i will take it off your hands,I have a bunch for parts and see lots of them broken.Hope you find something that works!

What do you think of the jbl amp? Is it really worth it to track down the orian ones instead?
 
If you really got your mind set on a amp than thats okay.There are many that are good priced that sound great like the high $$.I just like the old school amps and they are worth every penny!Every new amp made is regulated power and i don't think they will keep there value of price inb the long run.Because every company is buying up each other and they slap a big watt sticker on the amp and make it glow and look like $$$$$$$$$$.But they are never close to what the company says they are.But, you can bet every old school amp is under what the company says it is and they are unregulated power,so the more batterys, higher alt, more juice you give you car, truck the louder it is.I might be talking about something you aren't looking for but,it is good to look into what you are buying.Also make sure you know your ohm load on your speaker match the load on the amp.I like high powered amps and i'm going though a little problem with a amp i love now and can't use because of the load i want to use.
 
Last time I checked RF were still unregulated. In my opinion I would buy new or maybe a few years old.

"Old School" equipment is far over hyped and therefore has overinflated prices. Audio equipment especially amps is the only consumer electronic area where some people think older is better.

Take a look at the individual items inside and they have improved like the output stage transistors ect. but yet the overall quality has decreased?

Every consumer electronic device has decreased in cost but has more features and better performance that I can think of.


Rockford has a comparison of some of the older amps to the newer ones if you are interested.


You are welcome to disagree but I have never found any solid information showing why or how an older amplifier(especially car audio) is superior.
 
ocool_15 said:
Every consumer electronic device has decreased in cost but has more features and better performance that I can think of.


That's one of the reasons I prefer some of the old school gear. They didn't need options or special ratings or whatever to sell their gear to the growing amount of retards who need flash or "bling" I love my old Alpine amps because I can shut off or bypass everything on it and run it JUST as an amplifier.

The less you manipulate the audio, the better the reproduction. If you think you need a 30 band EQ and subsonic crossovers and yadda yadda to make it sound good, all you're doing is trying to compensate for sub par install or gear.


At my last job my boss was one of the head design engineers for Orion and A/D/S back when they were building the "old school" amps that Shallowfu loves so much, one of the main reasons he quit and went into buisness for himself (now building some of the highest quality converters and preamps for home audio in the world) was because he would design an amplifier that was amazing, no expense spared. But then Orion would send the schematics off to the cost engineers who would go over and be like "We don't really need this protection" "We can use a cheaper op amp here instead" "We can remove all these decoupling caps"

Basically they would take his design, and rip it apart taking out every piece they could or switching it with cheaper versions to save money. When you can shave $50 - $100 off the cost of building a board and times that by 500,000 boards... ... big money. And every year he said it would get worse, they would just keep cutting costs


So to me, that's where the old school met the new age. You can get the same or more output using cheaper parts and cutting costs, and 95% of the people out there will never notice. Back in the day the designers had more of a say in the end product, where as now the designs are made, all the company needs to do is tweak little things and throw it into a new case and sell it as a ultra new kick *** amp even though the guts are almost identical as the last years, and the year before.
 
Well said!I repair lots of amps and all are regulated now at days even RF and it is more dependable for the user so they don't blow up the amp using to high of a alternator or touching the speaker output together.I will always use old school and i love alpine with my old cva-1000 with all the mods and with the time audio correction unit and all the other inbetweens they made i have all i need is raw unregulated power!I love all the old amp with the wires hanging out.
 
I don't really understand what you guys are talking about :D . I am not set on the jbl amp but I don't really feel comfortable trying to track down a older amp that isn't being made anymore. So is there really anything better than the stuff i'm currently looking at in the same price range? Or should I just go for what i'm currently looking at?
 
Are you just trying to get something new?Why not just try to get a amp from like best buy around where you live?They have a great warrantys for 4 years or so.Have you looked into the kicker amps?They have a 1200.1 mono witch myself have tryed and it pushed 3 jl's and worked great and i think that was 1400 watts rated or a small 1000 memphis amp?Try to stay away from RF if you can unless you can be careful because any slipups and they brake easy.If you don't think it is true go to ebay and do a search of broken RF amps and there are lots!The amp you want is fine and i think will work with what you want.I have had a few jbl amps most before 2000 and i have no problems with them.Sorry about steering in another direction but, just wanted to give you so info about older amps.
 
What's your overall budget for sub/amp? I've heard good things on those JBL amps can't vouge for the woofer. Kicker's new ZX line has proven excellent in all our tests. We've tested the ZX2500.1 against last years Orion 2500D & the new IA20.1 and in all testings in a teammate's truck the Kicker came out on top. I'm also going to have to drop my input on the Alpine Type R, still an excellent daily performer with SPL capabilities.
 
belunt said:
What's your overall budget for sub/amp? I've heard good things on those JBL amps can't vouge for the woofer. Kicker's new ZX line has proven excellent in all our tests. We've tested the ZX2500.1 against last years Orion 2500D & the new IA20.1 and in all testings in a teammate's truck the Kicker came out on top. I'm also going to have to drop my input on the Alpine Type R, still an excellent daily performer with SPL capabilities.


I'd like to keep it around $600-700 for both.
 
Not sure if this would interest you at all but I've been thinking about selling my big setup to goto something smaller (getting older, married... someday kids... bubye stereo :( )

Anyways, it's (2) 12" Concept PT12's which are dual 2ohm coils and each sub is rated for 700RMS and I'm the original owner with boxes and everything, and for power I've been running (2) Alpine MRV-1005 amplifiers which each are rated for 150x2 @ 4ohms, 300x2 @ 2ohms, or 600x1 @ 4ohms so I've been powering these subs with a little under their rated power level and using class A/B very clean amps.

The only problem I could see is shipping could end up being pretty costly, I'm from Canada and those subs weigh in pretty hefty.

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Not my amp but the same model
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
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