Remote hook up

T edward · 30th July 2006, 05:33 PM

I'm using an Audio Concepts LC6i because I'm keeping the factory head unit, (06 Tacoma) to power the amp ( Arc 400.4). The question I have; is the yellow wire going into the head unit the wire I hook the remote to on the LC6i? If not how do I find the correct wire? Thanks Tom Daugherty

Jexx · 31st July 2006, 02:37 AM

The remote wire is the blue wire with the white stripe. It is NOT the solid blue wire.

sr20dem0n · 31st July 2006, 04:04 AM

You'd want to use the red wire

Yellow is constant +12v, the device would stay on all the time. If there was a remote output from the amp (blue/white) then you would want to use that, but since it's a factory unit I highly doubt there will be one. In which case, you would use the red wire, which is switched with the ignition.

Jexx · 1st August 2006, 03:07 AM

Good call. Too bad people are too cheap to buy an aftermarket like they're supposed to...

But factory wiring colors do not have ANY consistency. The red wire or yellow or whatever could be illumination wires for all we know.

sr20dem0n · 1st August 2006, 03:28 AM

Damnit you're right, I was thinking the red wire after you run it through a wiring harness, but since he's using the factory deck there is no wiring harness.

Well, use a DMM to test which of the leads is dead when the car is off, and hot when the car is in ACC or ON, and that's your ticket.

T edward · 1st August 2006, 02:30 PM

I'll check with a meter. It's not that I'm cheap. I have had four vehicles broken into in the past year. When the thieves look into my new truck and see the factory radio they will leave it alone. So, I'll have to suffer with the head unit for a while. Tom Daugherty

T edward · 3rd August 2006, 08:01 PM

I found the Acc. wire to the factory HU. I went to the local Circuit City and bought a wire harness for a Pioneer unit. All the wires are labeled, found the correct wire, returned the harness for a refund. Didn't even have to open the package the color codes are written on the package.
Now I have a hiss coming through the tweeters. The ground for the amp and line level in are at the same spot. It's not alternator whine because it doesn't change pitch with rpm. Any ideas?
Friday I'm going to install the LC6i. It has three different grounds, hopefully that will solve the problem. The Dayton RS150-4 will go in too. The tweeters are Vifa Xt25sc50-04. Tom Daugherty

T edward · 13th August 2006, 01:34 AM

Well, I just finished getting all the levels tweaked. Sounds sweet! Now the Southern California traffic wont be so bad, I can escape to music land. Tom

Jexx · 13th August 2006, 05:58 AM

Yeah, that southern cali traffic can be a monster.

What did you do for midrange? Just kept the factory speakers? I understand you have Vifa tweets and a dayton sub?

T edward · 20th August 2006, 03:00 PM

The mid bass is the Dayton RS150 and the sub is Image Dynamics ID 10 v3. The Dayton sub is in the neer future. Tom Daugherty

30th July 2006, 05:33 PM	#1
T edward diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2006	Remote hook up I'm using an Audio Concepts LC6i because I'm keeping the factory head unit, (06 Tacoma) to power the amp ( Arc 400.4). The question I have; is the yellow wire going into the head unit the wire I hook the remote to on the LC6i? If not how do I find the correct wire? Thanks Tom Daugherty

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31st July 2006, 02:37 AM	#2
Jexx diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2006	The remote wire is the blue wire with the white stripe. It is NOT the solid blue wire.

31st July 2006, 04:04 AM	#3
sr20dem0n diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: San Antonio, TX	You'd want to use the red wire Yellow is constant +12v, the device would stay on all the time. If there was a remote output from the amp (blue/white) then you would want to use that, but since it's a factory unit I highly doubt there will be one. In which case, you would use the red wire, which is switched with the ignition.

1st August 2006, 03:07 AM	#4
Jexx diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2006	Good call. Too bad people are too cheap to buy an aftermarket like they're supposed to... But factory wiring colors do not have ANY consistency. The red wire or yellow or whatever could be illumination wires for all we know.

1st August 2006, 03:28 AM	#5
sr20dem0n diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: San Antonio, TX	Damnit you're right, I was thinking the red wire after you run it through a wiring harness, but since he's using the factory deck there is no wiring harness. Well, use a DMM to test which of the leads is dead when the car is off, and hot when the car is in ACC or ON, and that's your ticket.

1st August 2006, 02:30 PM	#6
T edward diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2006	I'll check with a meter. It's not that I'm cheap. I have had four vehicles broken into in the past year. When the thieves look into my new truck and see the factory radio they will leave it alone. So, I'll have to suffer with the head unit for a while. Tom Daugherty

3rd August 2006, 08:01 PM	#7
T edward diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2006	I found the Acc. wire to the factory HU. I went to the local Circuit City and bought a wire harness for a Pioneer unit. All the wires are labeled, found the correct wire, returned the harness for a refund. Didn't even have to open the package the color codes are written on the package. Now I have a hiss coming through the tweeters. The ground for the amp and line level in are at the same spot. It's not alternator whine because it doesn't change pitch with rpm. Any ideas? Friday I'm going to install the LC6i. It has three different grounds, hopefully that will solve the problem. The Dayton RS150-4 will go in too. The tweeters are Vifa Xt25sc50-04. Tom Daugherty

13th August 2006, 01:34 AM	#8
T edward diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2006	Well, I just finished getting all the levels tweaked. Sounds sweet! Now the Southern California traffic wont be so bad, I can escape to music land. Tom

13th August 2006, 05:58 AM	#9
Jexx diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2006	Yeah, that southern cali traffic can be a monster. What did you do for midrange? Just kept the factory speakers? I understand you have Vifa tweets and a dayton sub?

20th August 2006, 03:00 PM	#10
T edward diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2006	The mid bass is the Dayton RS150 and the sub is Image Dynamics ID 10 v3. The Dayton sub is in the neer future. Tom Daugherty

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