Grounding to battery in high power systems

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Jexx

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Joined 2006
I was reading my owner's manual for my PPI PC2350 and it claims if an amplifier is over 600watts RMS, an additional grounding wire should be run to the negative terminal of the battery to prevent the amp from overheating and/or engine noise problems.

How accurate is that?
 
Glowbug

Glowbug

Member
Joined 2006
As long as you have a good ground return through the chassis, and have upgraded the battery-to-chassis ground with a larger gauge, you're fine.

If you don't have a lot of metal on the frame, and can't get a good chassis ground - then yes, run a seperate wire back to the negative post.
 
TO-3

TO-3

Member
Joined 2004
Jexx said:
I was reading my owner's manual for my PPI PC2350 and it claims if an amplifier is over 600watts RMS, an additional grounding wire should be run to the negative terminal of the battery to prevent the amp from overheating and/or engine noise problems.

How accurate is that?
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I always run a return to my battery. Some cars have poorly conduting chassis and end up causing ground-loops. I run a cable from the battery and then ground the chassis at the spot that I ground the amps.
 
TO-3

TO-3

Member
Joined 2004
Re: Re: Re: Grounding to battery in high power systems

vadi said:



Hi!

Could you pleas explain that?

I simply grounded both amps via cables to the battery and the HU via chassis. Is that a problem?


Regards,

Sladjan
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I run a ground from my battery to the chassis at the point where I ground all of my electronics. I used to have a Saturn that had a body with high resistance. I later found that the body is spot welded together and at those points the resistance is increased which will cause a ground-loop. I figured why not ground each panel to the battery? The metal frame still has a good ground but adding a solid retun is the best way to ensure that the ground has minimum resistance.
 
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