I have an 85 chevy celebrity (go ahead, laugh) that i use for a daily driver/beater/experiment. I want to add a subwoofer to the mix, but A. i like having trunk space B. I dont want it getting stolen. So i played with a few ideas and heres what I came up with:
Ill take out the rear deck speakers, get one maybe two 8" or 10" subwoofers, build an enclosure(s) with the angled side having the subwoofer and facing away from the backseat, then finally using a piece of MDF to build a wall sealing the subs completely from the rest of the trunk, keeping them hidden, and giving the bass something to bounce off of. I dont know what kind of effect the wall will have on the overall sound, tho. Id like to have the amps in there as well, but i fear they would overheat. Im using an MTX roadthunder 2channel right now for the dash. I have another one, same model, but i dont think 150w bridged would be enough to power a sub.
and since im here, what should i look for in a sub if i want a good amount of volume and a fair amount of "full body massage"? Im not looking to set off car alarms, but i do drive on highways a bit and sometimes i just need my music loud. I looked into a few brands, dayton, kicker(too expensive tho), ascendant audio, to name a few, and I cant really gather much from the T/S parameters. Im currently looking at it as the Fs should be low, and the RMS at least 200 or so. I also dont like foam surrounds, they just dont seem as tough as the butyl ones. Thats prettymuch the criteria im going on so far. Any advice/comments/whathaveyou would be appreciated.
Ill take out the rear deck speakers, get one maybe two 8" or 10" subwoofers, build an enclosure(s) with the angled side having the subwoofer and facing away from the backseat, then finally using a piece of MDF to build a wall sealing the subs completely from the rest of the trunk, keeping them hidden, and giving the bass something to bounce off of. I dont know what kind of effect the wall will have on the overall sound, tho. Id like to have the amps in there as well, but i fear they would overheat. Im using an MTX roadthunder 2channel right now for the dash. I have another one, same model, but i dont think 150w bridged would be enough to power a sub.
and since im here, what should i look for in a sub if i want a good amount of volume and a fair amount of "full body massage"? Im not looking to set off car alarms, but i do drive on highways a bit and sometimes i just need my music loud. I looked into a few brands, dayton, kicker(too expensive tho), ascendant audio, to name a few, and I cant really gather much from the T/S parameters. Im currently looking at it as the Fs should be low, and the RMS at least 200 or so. I also dont like foam surrounds, they just dont seem as tough as the butyl ones. Thats prettymuch the criteria im going on so far. Any advice/comments/whathaveyou would be appreciated.
well man sounds like you just want a bit of bass without sacrificeing trunk space.
Obviously you are NOT..looking for perfect performance by with what you said.
Obviously you are NOT..looking for perfect performance by with what you said.
Obviously you are NOT..looking for perfect performance by with what you said.
(Sorry i have to repeat myself so the next guy that post up doent forget what i said... for what i am about to say)
why not just look at a prefab box that is removable and light weight.?
Obviously you are NOT..looking for perfect performance by with what you said.
Obviously you are NOT..looking for perfect performance by with what you said.
Obviously you are NOT..looking for perfect performance by with what you said.
(Sorry i have to repeat myself so the next guy that post up doent forget what i said... for what i am about to say)
why not just look at a prefab box that is removable and light weight.?
A sealed enclosure will typically give the best all round performance so unless you have something specific in mind, or sim it all up and come up with your own solution, the closed will do just fine.oogared said:
You'd normally want a rolloff that compliments your cabin gain. In theory, a closed box rolloff point that happens at the same frequency as your cabin gain point, will give a flat response. Therefore, in theory, a closed box rolloff below the cabin gain point will give a peak at the overlap.
I used to get a pretty good massage from a 10" in the hatch of a Mustang. The trick was that it was a home speaker driver with decent bass before cabin gain (in 2.4 cubic feet sealed) and the in-car bass performance was so much deep bass you could eat it with a fork. You may find an old speaker cheap at a thrift store with blown/missing midrange and tweeter for next to nothing.
In car audio drivers, I liked the JL Audio 10W1 for a sealed box. Good Xmax, pretty low F3 even without cabin gain. You may find one of those used cheap, although make sure the surround hasn't rotted.
In car audio drivers, I liked the JL Audio 10W1 for a sealed box. Good Xmax, pretty low F3 even without cabin gain. You may find one of those used cheap, although make sure the surround hasn't rotted.
hi
if space is an issue i have heard the eu-700 subwoofer from ED they handle 150WRMS and theyre know to take 200WRMS. they play decently loud for the size and only requier a small enclosure.
you can even use two of them and still have plenty of room in your cargo area. and feel the bass.
you can build a stelth enclosure that if some one looks in your car they wont be able to tell there is a sub woofer there.
if space is an issue i have heard the eu-700 subwoofer from ED they handle 150WRMS and theyre know to take 200WRMS. they play decently loud for the size and only requier a small enclosure.
you can even use two of them and still have plenty of room in your cargo area. and feel the bass.
you can build a stelth enclosure that if some one looks in your car they wont be able to tell there is a sub woofer there.
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