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Old 30th September 2007, 05:11 AM   #11
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Default Update

I have finally built the enclosure, for a single sub (got rid of one sub and amp- realized it's overkill). I think I did a decent job for a first attempt. Just waiting on some carpeting for masking the enclosure itself.

Thanks to all for your suggestions. I did use all the materials you recommended. I love TiteBond- a great product. I also figured out the bracing, and bult the enclosure with the mfg suggested volume for unported design.

The best part about this, besides the fact that it's built by me, is that it was fairly inexpensive. I could have purchased a unit, but it was hard to find a pre-fab one that was the right interior volume for this particular sub, for about $50 shipped. I paid $6 for the MDF board, and
$2 for nice screws. I returned the titebond glue and 3M spray adhesive to home depot since i didn't use more than 1%. Cheap or what. Lol
I will post some pictures in a few minutes. Should be installing the rest of the setup in my car soon!
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Old 30th September 2007, 01:51 PM   #12
coki is offline coki  Indonesia
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$6 for MDF???? How thick is it?
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Old 1st October 2007, 10:32 PM   #13
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it was almost 7 bucks with tax- it's 1" thick.
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Old 1st October 2007, 10:36 PM   #14
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Default Pics

http://www.thevulgarbulgar.com/TEMP/...92007(004).jpg

http://www.thevulgarbulgar.com/TEMP/...92007(005).jpg

http://www.thevulgarbulgar.com/TEMP/...92007(006).jpg

http://www.thevulgarbulgar.com/TEMP/...92007(007).jpg

http://www.thevulgarbulgar.com/TEMP/...92007(008).jpg

http://www.thevulgarbulgar.com/TEMP/...92007(009).jpg

Sorry for poor quality (phone cam), but enough for the idea.
THings look crooked at first, but was adjusting the wood while glue was still wet. Things came out very even as you can see in last photo.


Just waiting on the carpeting.
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Old 2nd October 2007, 08:03 AM   #15
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by hooha
[B]Class of amplification is not relevent when determining total current draw. Using Ohm's Law (Current = Power/Voltage) based on your requirements you will have:

1600watts/14 volts = 114.3 amps current draw from your power amplifiers alone.

This is not totally correct the class of amp does make a very big difference if you were using a class d for the subs and a class a single ended amp for the rest as the relative efficiencies of these amps are wildly different.....
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Old 2nd October 2007, 09:11 AM   #16
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Yes that's correct, of 3 equal output wattage amps, the class-a would draw most from the system, then the class-b, with the class-d being the least power hungry.

Beware though that most amps badged as class-d are not really class-d in the amp section, they just have a 'class-d' power supply and a regular class-b power amp. So basically the same as a normal car amp then. Shocking practice
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Old 2nd October 2007, 09:17 AM   #17
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I must say, that is a very unusual box building method.....
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Old 7th October 2007, 05:03 AM   #18
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junglejuice, just wondering why you say so? also, i have removed one sub amp and sub form the setup, elaving plenty of juice. i have purchased and installed a high output alternator- 140+ amps. not sure what idle output is.

anyway, i just hope that it won't impede as far as sound quality is concerned. i just made sure the enclosure was stiff and durable, with the required interior volume (the basket design of the sub has been compensated for).

also
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Old 7th October 2007, 05:13 AM   #19
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BTW, this is the mids/ hi's amp:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...n_US&p_status=
seemed good, picked it up for ~$350 on ebay, NIB. good reviews. don't know much about the company, but it met the rms requirements.

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