I once new a guy who had a home stereo whose speakers consisted of two tower speakers, and a band pass subwoofer box. The band pass was just big enough to house a 15" subwoofer installed at a 45* angle, and the box was a perfect square. It was set up to play only ultra-low bass, and without the tower speakers hooked up, I couldn't have been able to tell what song was playing because the sub was only playing the ultra-low lows.
I want the lowest and deepest bass possible, and want a similiar setup for my car. I want one 18" in a band bass box wired for only the lowest of the lows, and then another 15" in a sealed or ported box wired to play regular bass.
How do I set up one sub to play only the lowest of the lows, and one sub to play regular bass?
I want the lowest and deepest bass possible, and want a similiar setup for my car. I want one 18" in a band bass box wired for only the lowest of the lows, and then another 15" in a sealed or ported box wired to play regular bass.
How do I set up one sub to play only the lowest of the lows, and one sub to play regular bass?
Music consists of ~10 octaves. Your typical tweeter covers the top 3 octaves or so. Your typical midbass/midrange covers the next 5 octaves or so. Your typical sub covers the remaining 2. You're saying that you want to let your tweets cover 3 octaves, your midbasses cover 5, but you're worried about a sub covering a mere 2? It's not even 2 octaves really, because there's basically no content below ~30hz in most music, it's really only an octave and a half. Your typical sub will have NO problem playing the <80hz range, there's literally no reason to do what you're suggesting, especially considering a bandpass box that's built to shine in the 15-30hz region for an 18 will take up half the space of your car. You won't even be able to fit passengers, much less another sub. Besides, cabin gain is so drastic in a vehicle that you can get bone flat output from 80hz well into the teens (below the audible range) with a decent 10 or 12 in a run-of-the-mill sealed box with a little planning.
I have a similar setup, I have a 12" JL running 0(theoretically)-80Hz and two 8" MTXs running 80-100Hz. That way, the snares and bass drums are clean and seperated...much better sounding than having all my bass on the 12" where it was too boomy and the snares were not very hard hitting. Like sr20dem0n said, splitting the frequencies that low will not accomplish much, at that point you might just consider bass shakers instead.
If you do that, use midbass drivers, not subwoofers, and install them properly (fiberglass door pods or kick panels).
Like I said before, a decent 10 or 12 in a decently thought out sealed box will let you play flat from ~80hz (which is the highest you should be running a sub in the trunk of a car anyway) well below the audible threshold in a typical car.
Like I said before, a decent 10 or 12 in a decently thought out sealed box will let you play flat from ~80hz (which is the highest you should be running a sub in the trunk of a car anyway) well below the audible threshold in a typical car.
What does it mean to play flat? And you say that ~80 hz is the highest I would want in the trunk of a car anyway. Wouldn't I want to hear base under ~80 hz, or is that too low for me to hear? And finally, the first system I build will be in my Ram 2500 with an extra cab. I plan on stripping out the extra cab to use for my system.
What does it mean to play flat?
As in frequency response
And you say that ~80 hz is the highest I would want in the trunk of a car anyway. Wouldn't I want to hear base under ~80 hz, or is that too low for me to hear?
You misread, 80hz is the highest you would want, not the lowest, you can hear down to ~20hz, but most music doesn't have any content below 30hz or so. Anyway, above ~80hz the bass starts to become directional, so you can actually hear it coming from behind you. That's why 80hz is often considered the highest cutoff frequency you should use for your sub, though some people just ignore the directionality and let it go up to 100-125 or so.
As in frequency response
And you say that ~80 hz is the highest I would want in the trunk of a car anyway. Wouldn't I want to hear base under ~80 hz, or is that too low for me to hear?
You misread, 80hz is the highest you would want, not the lowest, you can hear down to ~20hz, but most music doesn't have any content below 30hz or so. Anyway, above ~80hz the bass starts to become directional, so you can actually hear it coming from behind you. That's why 80hz is often considered the highest cutoff frequency you should use for your sub, though some people just ignore the directionality and let it go up to 100-125 or so.
Whitewidow,
Is it your intention to build a "thumper stereo". If so... you might not find the best support here. Do you like to listen to a lot of rap? There are forums for thumpers and highest sound pressure etc...
And, you can easily build a good sub to go under your back seat in your truck. You don't need large diameter drivers for low freguency... I know they look cool though. Nice thing about a sub is that they can go ANYwhere... they don't have to point at you like tweeter or midrange does. They don't even need to be stereo, in fact.
Is it your intention to build a "thumper stereo". If so... you might not find the best support here. Do you like to listen to a lot of rap? There are forums for thumpers and highest sound pressure etc...
And, you can easily build a good sub to go under your back seat in your truck. You don't need large diameter drivers for low freguency... I know they look cool though. Nice thing about a sub is that they can go ANYwhere... they don't have to point at you like tweeter or midrange does. They don't even need to be stereo, in fact.
Maybe I am in the wrong place. It is not my intention to build a super loud stereo, because I would not want to damage my ears. I want to be able to listen to my rap and raggae music at a reasonable volume, and have the deepest possible bass. So, do you think I should try and find another bulletin board for thumpers?
truck subs
if you want a nice system for your truck, and price and space are a issue try the dayton quattro line of woofers. i installed a pair of quattro 8's in a co-workers truck he was very happy with 1 pair in a 0.5cft box each tuned in the low 30's. with the 8's you can get by with a even smaller sealed box and use 4 of them, expect alot of cabin gain and a litttle bass boost and you will be happy. if you are going to use the extended cab area of your truck move up to the 10-12's and have some crazy bass. match it up with a nice midbass (4ohm dayton rs line would be nice) and you shou8ld have a nice start.
everybody who has heard this setup is suprised that this truck has 2 8's and only a 100watt amp. some of the $4 dayton neo tweets, vifa midbass, and some caps/coils bring the price tag to around $#160.00 for the whole install. the non diy croud is so used to buying $80.00 6x9's and $200-400 subs this guy couldnt beleive his systems price and performance.
if you want a nice system for your truck, and price and space are a issue try the dayton quattro line of woofers. i installed a pair of quattro 8's in a co-workers truck he was very happy with 1 pair in a 0.5cft box each tuned in the low 30's. with the 8's you can get by with a even smaller sealed box and use 4 of them, expect alot of cabin gain and a litttle bass boost and you will be happy. if you are going to use the extended cab area of your truck move up to the 10-12's and have some crazy bass. match it up with a nice midbass (4ohm dayton rs line would be nice) and you shou8ld have a nice start.
everybody who has heard this setup is suprised that this truck has 2 8's and only a 100watt amp. some of the $4 dayton neo tweets, vifa midbass, and some caps/coils bring the price tag to around $#160.00 for the whole install. the non diy croud is so used to buying $80.00 6x9's and $200-400 subs this guy couldnt beleive his systems price and performance.
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