A REAL 1500w amp!

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Jennice said:

It's a pity they don't tell you in the spec?, I had to download the instruction manual to find out! - as you say, it IS specced as RMS, and mentions 600A required from your car battery!. They also gives suggested modifications to your car, such as double alternators.

The second site doesn't say either, and I couldn't see any instruction manual links?, so I can't comment on that one.
 
Nigel Goodwin said:


Personal experience, simple examination of the provided specs, and common sense.

The ONLY power spec worth mentioning is RMS, and car amps rarely do that, they publish wildly imaginary figures - as do car speakers as well, so there's no problem matching car speakers to car amps, as the figures should match reasonably well. But don't try a car speaker on a proper specced amp, it will most probably kill the speaker very quickly.

It's uncommon for car amp manufacturers to quote RMS, and if it doesn't say RMS then it's an inflated value.

For example, I've managed to find ONE amp in a catalogue that gives RMS figures:

Magnat Hot Rod 2000

Maximum power 1x500W

RMS 2x70W

So it's called '2000', it's got a supposed 'maximum' power of 500W, but is only 70W per channel RMS, so 140W total power.


but once again...your using companies that produce garbage in the 1st place....there r plenty of companies that exceed spec and have tons of headroom....when you use or buy garbage that's what your going to get...
 
trusound said:

but once again...your using companies that produce garbage in the 1st place....there r plenty of companies that exceed spec and have tons of headroom....when you use or buy garbage that's what your going to get...

But most of the in-car stuff is garbage, the ones you posted are exceptions, and presumably VERY expensive - I followed one of the links to an Internet shop, but they didn't appear to list the big amplifiers (and the smaller ones were expensive anyway).

Obviously they need to be expensive, as they have a LOT to do :D
 
judtoff said:
There are such thing as 1500 RMS watt car amps, infact I have a 1600 watt one. Most car amps that are >1000 watts are usually class D. Rods one is class AB if Im not mistaken. Heres my amp the BXi1606http://www.maxxsonics.com/hifonics/amps_brutus.html

Heres a pic of its internals

Edit: Though Rods is 1500 at 4 ohms nearly tripple the output of this thing at 4 ohms... HOLY !!!

Yes, Rod's is class AB, a conventional design.

Again, the brief specs on your amp don't say RMS, but downloading the full specs gives RMS for Brutus and Zeus, but NOT for Titan?.
 
Edit: Though Rods is 1500 at 4 ohms nearly tripple the output of this thing at 4 ohms... HOLY !!!

Yeah, Rod's specs are 4ohm, not 1. Add a lot of pairs of transistors, put a 7kVA transformer instead and it will be able to run at 1ohm. Probably ~6000w since you can build a 2kW at 4ohm design. That's a beefy amp!(And not peak power) Then you need to find how many speakers you need to run in series & parallel to be able to output all that...(You'd need a diesel generator in your car to make it run but that's an other problem...)
 
Lol True enough, but car audio amps are meant for car audio subs, for example there are many dvc 4 ohm subs out there, and two in parallel would give you one ohm. Down at the bottom of the page it states "BXi 1606D 1600-Watt x 1 RMS @ 1-Ohm " it does say RMS. obviously it isnt suited for home audio, just as Rods wouldnt be suited for car audio, my point is that there are indeed real 1500 watt car amplifiers.

Edit: I dont think using a beefier power supply will let you run Rods lower than 4 ohms, I am certain that the transistors cannot dissipate heat quickly enough. The Current would just be too great.
 
Looks pretty small for a 1500w. Maybe the voltage is high? I just don't see enough heatsinks in there... there's a 25% loss on the whole 8000w(apparently) in 4 ohms.

Edit: I dont think using a beefier power supply will let you run Rods lower than 4 ohms, I am certain that the transistors cannot dissipate heat quickly enough. The Current would just be too great.

Rod states lower ohms would work not just with a beffier transformer... but with more transistors also!
 
DragonMaster said:
Looks pretty small for a 1500w. Maybe the voltage is high? I just don't see enough heatsinks in there... there's a 25% loss on the whole 8000w(apparently) in 4 ohms.



Rod states lower ohms would work not just with a beffier transformer... but with more transistors also!


even if the voltage was higher, you wouldnt get more power. that would in case be a genius way to get enormous amounts of watts.
 
Well I got a Tsunami GXA-1000D car amp thats rated at

340 Watts X1 into 4 Ohms
600 Watts X1 into 2 Ohms
1000 Watts X1 into 1 Ohms

Thats RMS^

This is Peak

700 Watts X1 into 4 Ohms
1200 Watts X1 into 2 Ohms
1800 Watts X1 into 1 Ohms

All above figures are at 12V input.

It's a class D sub amp, uses IRF2807 for the output devices and IRF3205 for the power supply.

I have seen setups that use 00 gage (thats right zero zero) wire for power and dual battery + alternator.

Rod's design would kill most amps out in the market (exept the high quallity ones) but he could improve on it going to class H.

P.S picture of Amp Here
 
Am I missing something here?

When I look at what Rod's and other high quality home amps are using I see many output transistors for a given wattage. Now when I look at the car amps, there appears to be disproportionately less. I wonder about the safety margins? I imagine that's why so many car amps blow up.

The other thing I also wonder about is the quantity and rating of the power supply caps. In a home amp, you pick those making sure they handle the required current. With those low impedances, the current is a real issue. I wonder if those caps are up to it?
 
In my opinion the current heavy weight champion is the JBL A6000GTI that someone posted earlier.

The amp is VERY conservatively rated 6000w/rms @ 12.5v and 7500w/rms @ 14.4v. Its specs are compliant with the new CEA2006 standard.

Thats some serious power for some serious money.... $6000.
 
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