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Old 8th June 2006, 12:25 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jennice
Maybe this is closer to the real deal?

http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...under92001.cfm
It's a pity they don't tell you in the spec?, I had to download the instruction manual to find out! - as you say, it IS specced as RMS, and mentions 600A required from your car battery!. They also gives suggested modifications to your car, such as double alternators.

The second site doesn't say either, and I couldn't see any instruction manual links?, so I can't comment on that one.
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Old 8th June 2006, 03:31 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nigel Goodwin


Personal experience, simple examination of the provided specs, and common sense.

The ONLY power spec worth mentioning is RMS, and car amps rarely do that, they publish wildly imaginary figures - as do car speakers as well, so there's no problem matching car speakers to car amps, as the figures should match reasonably well. But don't try a car speaker on a proper specced amp, it will most probably kill the speaker very quickly.

It's uncommon for car amp manufacturers to quote RMS, and if it doesn't say RMS then it's an inflated value.

For example, I've managed to find ONE amp in a catalogue that gives RMS figures:

Magnat Hot Rod 2000

Maximum power 1x500W

RMS 2x70W

So it's called '2000', it's got a supposed 'maximum' power of 500W, but is only 70W per channel RMS, so 140W total power.

but once again...your using companies that produce garbage in the 1st place....there r plenty of companies that exceed spec and have tons of headroom....when you use or buy garbage that's what your going to get...
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Old 8th June 2006, 03:58 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by trusound

but once again...your using companies that produce garbage in the 1st place....there r plenty of companies that exceed spec and have tons of headroom....when you use or buy garbage that's what your going to get...
But most of the in-car stuff is garbage, the ones you posted are exceptions, and presumably VERY expensive - I followed one of the links to an Internet shop, but they didn't appear to list the big amplifiers (and the smaller ones were expensive anyway).

Obviously they need to be expensive, as they have a LOT to do
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Old 8th June 2006, 04:31 PM   #24
judtoff is offline judtoff  Canada
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There are such thing as 1500 RMS watt car amps, infact I have a 1600 watt one. Most car amps that are >1000 watts are usually class D. Rods one is class AB if Im not mistaken. Heres my amp the BXi1606http://www.maxxsonics.com/hifonics/amps_brutus.html

Heres a pic of its internals

Edit: Though Rods is 1500 at 4 ohms nearly tripple the output of this thing at 4 ohms... HOLY !!!
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Old 8th June 2006, 04:41 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by judtoff
There are such thing as 1500 RMS watt car amps, infact I have a 1600 watt one. Most car amps that are >1000 watts are usually class D. Rods one is class AB if Im not mistaken. Heres my amp the BXi1606http://www.maxxsonics.com/hifonics/amps_brutus.html

Heres a pic of its internals

Edit: Though Rods is 1500 at 4 ohms nearly tripple the output of this thing at 4 ohms... HOLY !!!
Yes, Rod's is class AB, a conventional design.

Again, the brief specs on your amp don't say RMS, but downloading the full specs gives RMS for Brutus and Zeus, but NOT for Titan?.
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Old 8th June 2006, 04:44 PM   #26
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Quote:
Edit: Though Rods is 1500 at 4 ohms nearly tripple the output of this thing at 4 ohms... HOLY !!!
Yeah, Rod's specs are 4ohm, not 1. Add a lot of pairs of transistors, put a 7kVA transformer instead and it will be able to run at 1ohm. Probably ~6000w since you can build a 2kW at 4ohm design. That's a beefy amp!(And not peak power) Then you need to find how many speakers you need to run in series & parallel to be able to output all that...(You'd need a diesel generator in your car to make it run but that's an other problem...)
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Old 8th June 2006, 04:50 PM   #27
judtoff is offline judtoff  Canada
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Lol True enough, but car audio amps are meant for car audio subs, for example there are many dvc 4 ohm subs out there, and two in parallel would give you one ohm. Down at the bottom of the page it states "BXi 1606D 1600-Watt x 1 RMS @ 1-Ohm " it does say RMS. obviously it isnt suited for home audio, just as Rods wouldnt be suited for car audio, my point is that there are indeed real 1500 watt car amplifiers.

Edit: I dont think using a beefier power supply will let you run Rods lower than 4 ohms, I am certain that the transistors cannot dissipate heat quickly enough. The Current would just be too great.
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Old 8th June 2006, 04:52 PM   #28
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two 4 ohms in parallel give 2 ohms afaik.
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Old 8th June 2006, 04:54 PM   #29
judtoff is offline judtoff  Canada
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I meant two 4 ohm dual voice coils ....each of the subs has two 4 ohm voice coils. Wire them in paralell...you get two ohms yes, but I meant two subs. So 2 2 ohm loads in paralell gives you, voila...1 ohm.
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Old 8th June 2006, 10:04 PM   #30
hc_TK is offline hc_TK  Norway
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haven't read the whole post, but i saw you guys talking about 1500rms amps... What about this one? http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/SPL_Dynamics_D7/
This is a REAL 1500 watts amp!
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