I had my AX 600 high current amp tested at a dealer and he said that he thinks the power supply went bad. It is capable of 2400 watts into 1 Ohm.
Anyway, Does anyone know who might be able to fix it? Or what might be the best step to get it fixed?
I am so pissed! LOL
Dominick
Anyway, Does anyone know who might be able to fix it? Or what might be the best step to get it fixed?
I am so pissed! LOL
Dominick
Ive never heard of that model. I did a search on the internet and the only page that came up was your post . Anyway, the first thing you might want to do is call Audiobahn and see what their warantee policy is. If its out of warantee you can ask how much it is to have it refurbished or repaired. Sometimes the MFG can have really good flat rate prices on that stuff. Those class D amps are getting REALLY cheap. Another option is to sell it on ebay as broken and buy another audiobahn, or a directed. BTW you aint gonna get 2400 out of any of their amps. Their "2000W" amp has 90Amps of fuse on it. At 13.8V if that amp were JUST about to blow the fuses it would be 13.8x90a = 1170W of power consumption x 85% efficiency = 994W and at that your speaker would probably be playing squarewaves. I hate it when MFGs use "peak" ratings..
-Ken
-Ken
thanks for the reply
I looked at the amp and it is an A2X600HQ high current rack mount amp. It is not class D!
Also, it has 4 40 amp fuses on its rear that add up 120. When it would play, the volt meter usually read 14.1 volts possibly due to it being high current, my farad cap, and having an optima battery in the car. Anyway, it is also capable of being wired down to 1 ohm. That is where they claim to get 2400 watts. I do not know how to do all the math, so, given those new parameters, can you tell me what the amp is trul;y capable of? I am very curious!
Thanks again,
Dominick
I looked at the amp and it is an A2X600HQ high current rack mount amp. It is not class D!
Also, it has 4 40 amp fuses on its rear that add up 120. When it would play, the volt meter usually read 14.1 volts possibly due to it being high current, my farad cap, and having an optima battery in the car. Anyway, it is also capable of being wired down to 1 ohm. That is where they claim to get 2400 watts. I do not know how to do all the math, so, given those new parameters, can you tell me what the amp is trul;y capable of? I am very curious!
Thanks again,
Dominick
Also, it has 4 40 amp fuses on its rear that add up 120.
Not in Base-10.
Watts in can never exceed watts out. 85% efficiency is being very kind.
I thought it was a class D. I've seen some incredible efficiency numbers. THD is another story. The more efficient they make the amp, the less heatsinking they can get away with. Though 85% is probably still too generous. Heck failing on the conservative side and giving the mfg the benefit of the doubt, the numbers still never seem to add up anymore.
can you tell me what the amp is trul;y capable of? I am very curious!
Reverse calculating the "possible" wattage based on the fusing won't tell you what the amp CAN deliver continuous. It can only tell you what it CAN'T possibly.
The best way to tell is to benchmark the amp loaded with huge resistors and a sine wave signal source. The supply voltage should simulate actual operating conditions. Something like 13-13.5V, Not 14.4V or 15V like the mfgs like to use. The signal source could be a test CD or a function generator. Turn up the input until the O/P almost clips (goes flat as it hits the rails). An o-scope is handy here. That is your max un-distorted power. Turning it up past this point will deliver more power, but speakers do not like square waves in general.
You can also get a good idea also by measuring the rail voltage and using .707 to calculate RMS values. This assumes the P/S maintains O/P voltage.
When doing calculations like these its important to keep in mind the amps design. An H-bridge class D amp can apply from negative rail to positive rail not just positive rail to signal ground.
Heres your formulas.
Voltage = Current x Resistance (impedance) "ohms law"
Power = Current x Voltage
Solve for curent and merge the 2 formulas.
Current = Voltage / Resistance
Power = Voltage / Resistance X Voltage
P = V^2/R
Lets plug a 4ohm speaker in the wall socket, assuming its impedance IS 4ohms at 60hz..
P = 120V^2/4ohms
P = 14,400/4
P = 3600W
-Ken
P=current x volts
if your amp has 120 Amp fuses
and is powered by 13.8 volts
that is teoretical maximum 1656 Watts (100 % efficiency)
at 85% efficiency it is 1408 Watts
where did you get those 120 volts?
i don't get your explanations
formulas are ok, but what you put in is not!
if your amp has 120 Amp fuses
and is powered by 13.8 volts
that is teoretical maximum 1656 Watts (100 % efficiency)
at 85% efficiency it is 1408 Watts
where did you get those 120 volts?
i don't get your explanations
formulas are ok, but what you put in is not!
well, that kind of thinking is completely wrong
car amplifier is powered with 13.8 or whatever 14.1 volts (it drops in peak power without you noticing it unless you have 2400 watts alternator in the car dedicated just for your amp)
these 14 volts are multiplied by switching supply to +/- 50 volts or +/- 70 volts for the amp itself
at these volts, current delivered is adequately smaller!
where would you plug those 120 volts? just curious
car amplifier is powered with 13.8 or whatever 14.1 volts (it drops in peak power without you noticing it unless you have 2400 watts alternator in the car dedicated just for your amp)
these 14 volts are multiplied by switching supply to +/- 50 volts or +/- 70 volts for the amp itself
at these volts, current delivered is adequately smaller!
where would you plug those 120 volts? just curious
Hi Dominick,
-Chris
That only helps on short duration peaks. Then the alternator cries for help.I dont have an alternator that big, but I do have a dedicated farad cap!
-Chris
well, that kind of thinking is completely wrong
where would you plug those 120 volts? just curious
Since we do not know his amplifier rail voltage, or how well it regulates that voltage under load. It was merely an example of applying formulas to calculate power using a made up senario. Thats why I said " Lets plug a 4ohm speaker in the wall socket, assuming its impedance IS 4ohms at 60hz.." I suppose you missed that.
these 14 volts are multiplied by switching supply to +/- 50 volts or +/- 70 volts for the amp itself
You don't say!? Thank you for the tutorial!
at these volts, current delivered is adequately smaller!
OMG! So.. what you are saying is that power is always conserved? Someone should publish a paper!
-Ken
Adason,
We understand that the SMPS switches, transforms, rectifies and filters the applied 12-14V to much higher rail voltages.
I had stated that it is not possible to calculate an amplifiers power by what fuses it has. It's only possible to calculate what it cannot do.
I had suggested 2 alternate ways of getting a better idea of the capability of the amplifier. One being with a test load. The second by measuring the rail voltages and calculating the maximum possible RMS voltage. Then calculating the power at a given load. Thats all.. Since I did not have real world numbers to use, as I do not have that amp on my bench, I made up a senario where I could plug in some numbers.
I feel that you did not read what I was saying at all before firing away and telling me that my thinking was completely wrong. I was the one who felt insulted there.
-Ken
We understand that the SMPS switches, transforms, rectifies and filters the applied 12-14V to much higher rail voltages.
I had stated that it is not possible to calculate an amplifiers power by what fuses it has. It's only possible to calculate what it cannot do.
I had suggested 2 alternate ways of getting a better idea of the capability of the amplifier. One being with a test load. The second by measuring the rail voltages and calculating the maximum possible RMS voltage. Then calculating the power at a given load. Thats all.. Since I did not have real world numbers to use, as I do not have that amp on my bench, I made up a senario where I could plug in some numbers.
I feel that you did not read what I was saying at all before firing away and telling me that my thinking was completely wrong. I was the one who felt insulted there.
-Ken
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