I'm looking at adding a mid-bass / sub-woofer driver to an existing set of components to help out with some lower freq. The components have a passive crossover , i would need to add a cap and coil to the new driver.
What info do I need to calculate the req'd elements. Please excuse the noob question, I think I know what i need, just no way of figuring it out.
What info do I need to calculate the req'd elements. Please excuse the noob question, I think I know what i need, just no way of figuring it out.
Agreed, however multiple amps have drawbacks as well. Due to limitations and simplicity, I desire to setup a three-way front stage running off the same amp, ( big enough amp to pull the duty @ 200 w ' channel @ 12.0v). I have some additional subwoofers in the trunk and variable rear channel, but to get a full range signal up front at the listening level iasca judges use, a mid bass woofer directly in the doors would be nice. since my original post and after reading the forum i'm considering adding an additional full range 3 1/2" speaker to the system and run a 4-way type passive cross-over, or maybe incorporate the original passive supplied with the component set. i guess my question is what info should i get from the manufacturer to make a decision to try this or not and maybe come up with some theoretical numbers to start, oh and where to start building such a critter.
thanx and excuse the long post
thanx and excuse the long post
it really depends on what your going to be happy with,simply putting a 6 inch mid with a passive 12 db lp crossover will give yo more mid-bass -but you will be very limited in tuning and driver levels wich may end up sounding not soo good-if your going the 3 way route and expect better, either go active with full tuning capability ,or spend mucho cash on a decent 3 way set with passives included- at least they will be level matched better.
After some thought, this might be quite the project, honestly i would like to have the ability to do this, but i know my limitations, maybe later on i can try this. with that said, is there a prebuilt option available that has x-over points close enough to allow me to make a decision of a new 4-channel amp, or other ?
Driver position and placement"also in regards to the other drivers position and placement" , on and off axis, relections, all these issues contribute why just adding a driver and making a passive IMO is not a good idea...
just having to option to change xover points can make or break driver cohesion...stage height and depth etc.... and is why having the flexibliity in a car makes sence
just having to option to change xover points can make or break driver cohesion...stage height and depth etc.... and is why having the flexibliity in a car makes sence
i have considered now, another approach: to simply add a two-way crossover, high pass to go on to the existing passive crossover for my components, the low-pass going to the mid-bass-woofer. The current setup for the components are very well matched and scored very well for staging charachteristics. the addition of the subwoofer is to help out with midbass and bring low freq to the front, hopefully very subtle change. An L-pad may help as well. is there any prebuilt units that will x-over around 200 hz @ 4ohm ?
my advice : go semi active
for midbasses you go active
for tweeter and midranges you go for passive
lots of car audio enthusiast in my country do that
for midbasses if i can reccomend go for peerless or i heard some visaton (www.visaton.de) but i forgot the type maybe the ceramic or the alumunium ones (black colored cones)
for midbasses you go active
for tweeter and midranges you go for passive
lots of car audio enthusiast in my country do that
for midbasses if i can reccomend go for peerless or i heard some visaton (www.visaton.de) but i forgot the type maybe the ceramic or the alumunium ones (black colored cones)
hehe if you insist
maybe you can try solen for the components in usa i believe they're sold @ madisound
and btw, if you go 3 way passive, make sure your amps "healthy and powerfull" because 3 way passive is power (and signal) consuming especially the midbasses
and don't forget to etch some L-Pads to match their sensitivity
maybe you can try solen for the components in usa i believe they're sold @ madisound
and btw, if you go 3 way passive, make sure your amps "healthy and powerfull" because 3 way passive is power (and signal) consuming especially the midbasses
and don't forget to etch some L-Pads to match their sensitivity
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