I hope I'm posting in the correct place..
I just finished building a small amp (amp6 from 41hz.) and I want to use it in my car.
Now my car will normally give me around 13.4v but this amp is rated from 13.5 to 15.5v. So my plan is to simply run it on weak voltage and see what happens.
But what I would rather do is step up the cars voltage from 13 to 15. Is there a simple way I can do this? is there a chip out there I can by and build a simple stepup board?
If not I was planning on buying one of those cheap car adaptors you can get online.
Any advice would be appreciated!
Thanks
PVN
BTW, I did a search on stepup dc-dc and surprised nothing came up.
I just finished building a small amp (amp6 from 41hz.) and I want to use it in my car.
Now my car will normally give me around 13.4v but this amp is rated from 13.5 to 15.5v. So my plan is to simply run it on weak voltage and see what happens.
But what I would rather do is step up the cars voltage from 13 to 15. Is there a simple way I can do this? is there a chip out there I can by and build a simple stepup board?
If not I was planning on buying one of those cheap car adaptors you can get online.
Any advice would be appreciated!
Thanks
PVN
BTW, I did a search on stepup dc-dc and surprised nothing came up.
you should change the volt regulator in the alternator.
Than you could get 15v when the car is running, but the 12 v batteries can't put aout more than just above 12 volts
This is a picture of a regulator
Than you could get 15v when the car is running, but the 12 v batteries can't put aout more than just above 12 volts
This is a picture of a regulator
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'm not familiar with the amp6 from 41Hz amplifier. How much current does it take? If it's just a few amperes, then you're in luck: try National Semiconductor's SimpleSwitcher Series of integrated switching regulators. Buck, Boost and flyback, all flavors.
The LM2587 is rated at 5A, and for your app, you could easil.t squeeze out all 5A from it. in its simplest form, an LM2587T-ADJ would require a coil (for energy storage) a steering diode, 2 caps, and three resistors and a compencation cap. Pages 20 & 21 of the following datasheet:
http://cache.national.com/ds/LM/LM2587.pdf
give good examples of typical circuits. Also included are instructions on how to design and make a switcher depending on your situation.
HTH,
Steve
The LM2587 is rated at 5A, and for your app, you could easil.t squeeze out all 5A from it. in its simplest form, an LM2587T-ADJ would require a coil (for energy storage) a steering diode, 2 caps, and three resistors and a compencation cap. Pages 20 & 21 of the following datasheet:
http://cache.national.com/ds/LM/LM2587.pdf
give good examples of typical circuits. Also included are instructions on how to design and make a switcher depending on your situation.
HTH,
Steve
voltage
i would not suggest running the whole car at 15v that could and probably burn up some wireing and almost gaurenteed to burn up the ecm and dash ecu
i know a little about subs and amps but i am a mechanic by trade
maby find a capassitor? spelling sucks or run a different altanator and batt to the amp connected no nothing else other wise your asking for major problems
i would not suggest running the whole car at 15v that could and probably burn up some wireing and almost gaurenteed to burn up the ecm and dash ecu
i know a little about subs and amps but i am a mechanic by trade
maby find a capassitor? spelling sucks or run a different altanator and batt to the amp connected no nothing else other wise your asking for major problems
On-Board
Perivision,
While you could mount the DC-DC uppie in the amp's board (they don't take up much real estate), I would be careful how you arrange it with respect to the amp's components, as the uppie's coil can emit EMI and RFI. This can be minimized by using a toroid core for the coil, and winding the turns nice, tight, and uniformly on the core.
Using a chip with a higher frequency, say, 100-150kHz, will result in smaller magnetics and filter caps.
Steve
Perivision,
While you could mount the DC-DC uppie in the amp's board (they don't take up much real estate), I would be careful how you arrange it with respect to the amp's components, as the uppie's coil can emit EMI and RFI. This can be minimized by using a toroid core for the coil, and winding the turns nice, tight, and uniformly on the core.
Using a chip with a higher frequency, say, 100-150kHz, will result in smaller magnetics and filter caps.
Steve
well whats interesting about this amp is that I wound 4 torret coils and the CPU runs at 800mhz which is why the sound quality is at class A/B level despite being a class D amp.
Last time I checked, the car was giving me 13.4v. If I should be seeing something higher then that, then I may look into a new alternator. This is for a 87 cabreo so I would figure an alternator would not be that much.
As for the amp, I could run it at 14v and it would be happy, so if I could get 13.8v, then we no longer have a problem.
As for the Caps..
I have a large 50V cap that keeps the DC load smooth, but it will not help with the overall watts when I hit lower bass tones.
Right now I'm thinking of having two amps, one for the front and one for the back. By going this route, 13.8 to 14v would be fine.
PVN
Last time I checked, the car was giving me 13.4v. If I should be seeing something higher then that, then I may look into a new alternator. This is for a 87 cabreo so I would figure an alternator would not be that much.
As for the amp, I could run it at 14v and it would be happy, so if I could get 13.8v, then we no longer have a problem.
As for the Caps..
I have a large 50V cap that keeps the DC load smooth, but it will not help with the overall watts when I hit lower bass tones.
Right now I'm thinking of having two amps, one for the front and one for the back. By going this route, 13.8 to 14v would be fine.
PVN
I would NOT recommend a 15V regulator for the alternator. All tough your EMC and ECU will probably be fine (if they can’t take 15V, they are definitely designed wrong), your battery will not last long because of overcharge. 15V regulators are for cars that "constantly" run in COLD environments. (Batteries need more volts for full charge in cold.) All your light bulbs will also see much shorter lifetimes.
What you should get is a 14 or 14.4V regulator for your alternator that gives you 14 or 14.4V and not 13.6, or even better an actively regulated regulator that gives you optimum voltage for charging your battery at any temperature. Then your whole car will be healthier and your battery will last much longer.
As for added output power from your Amp6, I doubt your be able to notice much difference. I'd just install the amp as is at the moment and I'll bet you'll be happy with how it works. If you aren't happy at 13.6V, you will not be at 14.4V.
KISS is a good rule.
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What you should get is a 14 or 14.4V regulator for your alternator that gives you 14 or 14.4V and not 13.6, or even better an actively regulated regulator that gives you optimum voltage for charging your battery at any temperature. Then your whole car will be healthier and your battery will last much longer.
As for added output power from your Amp6, I doubt your be able to notice much difference. I'd just install the amp as is at the moment and I'll bet you'll be happy with how it works. If you aren't happy at 13.6V, you will not be at 14.4V.
KISS is a good rule.
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