Ok so for the past few months I have been having a little issue with my Kicker KX600.1 amp. A few months ago I noticed that the amp would click off after a a few minutes of use, then it would turn back on and be fine a few weeks, then it would do it again. So I figured that maybe the setting were set to high, so I adjusted them, but still the samething. My next thought was maybe it is over heating because it is summer, so I put a fan on it , and still nothing. Well flash forward to yesterday morning. I get in my car start driving, amp is fine, then out of the clear blue my sub stops working. I figured it would come back on in a few seconds, but to my surprise it didnt turn back on at all.
I get home to see if maybe there is a loose wire somewhere, but nothing still dead . Next I unplug the sub and remote wire to see if maybe the wires were bad, nothing, but I did notice something odd. On the side of the amp there is 2 LEDS one green and one red that light up when the amp is hooked up, on, and powered properly. I noticed that if I unhook the sub and hook the remote wire up, the Red LED lights up faintly then goes out. I have no clue what could have happened. Today Im going to take it all apart to check all my wires and test the amp, but before I do that I was wondering if anyone could chime in and help me out with what could possibly be wrong? Oh this amp was made in 2002 and has a12" Eclipse 8122DVC Aluminum hooked up to it and has 0 gauge wire. I already checked all the fuses on the amp and the main lead fuse and they are fine.
I get home to see if maybe there is a loose wire somewhere, but nothing still dead . Next I unplug the sub and remote wire to see if maybe the wires were bad, nothing, but I did notice something odd. On the side of the amp there is 2 LEDS one green and one red that light up when the amp is hooked up, on, and powered properly. I noticed that if I unhook the sub and hook the remote wire up, the Red LED lights up faintly then goes out. I have no clue what could have happened. Today Im going to take it all apart to check all my wires and test the amp, but before I do that I was wondering if anyone could chime in and help me out with what could possibly be wrong? Oh this amp was made in 2002 and has a12" Eclipse 8122DVC Aluminum hooked up to it and has 0 gauge wire. I already checked all the fuses on the amp and the main lead fuse and they are fine.
I've seen a few of those with shorted inductors on the output filter. On the toroidal inductor look VERY closely at the point where the final winding crosses over the top of the coil just before it goes to the board. If there is a very fine powdery material where the coil windings touch, the insulation has been worn away and is probably intermittantly shorting to the other winding.
If you can twist the inductor a ltttle and the amp comes back on, the problem is most likely the shorted windings.
If you can twist the inductor a ltttle and the amp comes back on, the problem is most likely the shorted windings.
Here is a picture of what the Amp looks like. Could you point out where you are talking about?
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20/tidalwavetiburon/ab295167.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20/tidalwavetiburon/ab295167.jpg
Here is something I just found, but Im kind of unsure what to think.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20/tidalwavetiburon/bottomofboard2.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20/tidalwavetiburon/frontboard2.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20/tidalwavetiburon/bottomofboard2.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20/tidalwavetiburon/frontboard2.jpg
Those solder joints could be a problem. Like Stocker said, you need to pull them and recheck them. If they are within tolerance, you can reuse them but you need to tin the leads, remove the solder and then re-tin them. This will help to get all of the oxidized solder off of the leads. Do the same to the board. If possible, replace them and leave the leads a little longer.
It's possible that they simply run hot and the solder connections overheated but there's also a pretty good chance that something has failed and is causing them to overheat. If you replace them and they get hot enough the unsolder themselves, there's another problem. Monitor their operating temperature the next time you power up the amplifier.
The resistance you measured across the FETs seems OK.
It's possible that they simply run hot and the solder connections overheated but there's also a pretty good chance that something has failed and is causing them to overheat. If you replace them and they get hot enough the unsolder themselves, there's another problem. Monitor their operating temperature the next time you power up the amplifier.
The resistance you measured across the FETs seems OK.
I just removed one of the resistors and tested it and Im getting 2.7 ohm, not here is the issue. As I posted in the previous post I cant read the lines, but what I think may be is 2K 1W 5% Metal oxide, but Im really not sure. The only thing Im sure of the the percent is 5%. To me the lines look like they are red, black, red, gold. Does this sound like it could be correct?
Although it is possible, it's very rare for the value of a resistors to go down when it fails. If they both read the same resistance, then it's very likely that they are 2.7 ohm resistors.
I would solder them back in. When powering it up, do so through a relatively small fuse (~7.5-10 amp for that amp). If the amp plays, the rest of the components are likely OK. If that amp has a fan, be sure it's working properly. Amps that are fan cooled often rely on the fan to cool components that are not mounted to the heatsink.
I would solder them back in. When powering it up, do so through a relatively small fuse (~7.5-10 amp for that amp). If the amp plays, the rest of the components are likely OK. If that amp has a fan, be sure it's working properly. Amps that are fan cooled often rely on the fan to cool components that are not mounted to the heatsink.
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