I have a PG 1200.1 mono amp that I have had since new. I had a wrattling problem from my trunk lid so a buddy of mine decides to place a towel between the rubber trunk seal to quiet it down. Well, it did but it alos causes water to wick in via the towel down into my trunk and into my amp rack. I never go into my trunk but to check on things every now and then. I was playing the radio one day and the next I had nothing from my enclosure. Wierd, I checked the amp, light was on and not blinking, so I checked my inputs where that checked out ok too. On the way to work I heard some crackling so I jumped out and pulled the fuse to be sure. I can smell a little something but no smoke. That afternoon I pulled the amp, disassembled it to find a good amount of corrosion where it looked to have some electrical action but noting seemed to be burned nor have popped. I can see some pathway corners with some slight burn marks, probably where water completed a circuit or two but nothing major. I uses a little Isopropyl (80%) to help remove the corrosion, looks good underneith. What are the chances that it will be ok and where should I start? I am a total electronics NOOB (BOOB 
) but I do know the basics and I am quite handy at assembly/reassembly/soldering. Should I just send this thing out or should I start learning how to repair my own crap? Thanks for any and all replies. Polo..
) but I do know the basics and I am quite handy at assembly/reassembly/soldering. Should I just send this thing out or should I start learning how to repair my own crap? Thanks for any and all replies. Polo..
You probably heard the water boiling where it was conducting across some of the higher voltage traces. I've never seen a dry amp crackle without smoking something.
If all looks clear and the fuses aren't blown, I would power it up with maybe a 10-15A fuse in the amp rather than whatever is there now. Just one fuse in one holder is enough.
Ok I cleaned it all out and removed any deposits now the protection light doesn't blink but still no sound. I never knew that the rail voltage was 62.4V, made me a little uneasy, lol. The only thing I can think of is one of the input circuits, maybe the control board? How do you check them little ICs anyways... Polo..
Polo..If you want to get into repairing car amps, Perry Babin has an excellent AMP repair guide you can buy, check out www.bcae1.com I have bought it, and am learning how. But If you don't want to get into fixing them, really I would just send it off to a repair shop. I don't think without a huge effort of learning you'd be able to repair it. But I'm sort of at the same place where you are, good soldering/general electronics troubleshooting, and I wanted to learn about it. It also a good amount to get the bench testing equipment, power supplies, dummy loads... but it's fun!
I saw that and e-mailed him asking questins because when I went to PayPal him the funds there wasn't an exact amount so I asked but never received an answer. I have been able and found a few things blown on my amp and have recently ordered the parts from Mouser. I have always loved electronics but who knows I may just get into this a little more! Polo..
Polo..Yeah I bought the manual guide, and now the Switcher PCB for testing the equipment. I've learned alot, and this at least for me is a great opportunity to learn more.
Basically you start buying parts and replacing them, but if you want to do testing in house, you need some other stuff like a big power supply, and some dummy resistors to run the amp so it doesn't burn out the new parts. Like if you replace the visually busted parts, but don't replace some that are still blown but don't look it, you can fry the new parts again... 5ohm 25watt resistor across the power supply will I think boot it up. It says in his guide.
I'm taking my time getting into it, but almost a year ago I bought the guide, and am really just starting to do the actual work, go slow so I don't get burnt out and frustrated.
Basically you start buying parts and replacing them, but if you want to do testing in house, you need some other stuff like a big power supply, and some dummy resistors to run the amp so it doesn't burn out the new parts. Like if you replace the visually busted parts, but don't replace some that are still blown but don't look it, you can fry the new parts again... 5ohm 25watt resistor across the power supply will I think boot it up. It says in his guide.
I'm taking my time getting into it, but almost a year ago I bought the guide, and am really just starting to do the actual work, go slow so I don't get burnt out and frustrated.
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