ok.
I talked to perry babin... and he suggested the pwm... i know where it is but i deleted the data and the email with it. so i need to know how to check it. I believe I am looking for a voltage reading at one of the pins in and one out. The amp has test points for power and ground. i have used both as testing points and get a 12v reading. It makes sense that the remote is what isnt turning on as he suggested. Do i use the amps ground as the ground to test the pins for the pwm?
Perry if you are reading this.... thanks for all your help I look forwad to reading anything you write.
D
I talked to perry babin... and he suggested the pwm... i know where it is but i deleted the data and the email with it. so i need to know how to check it. I believe I am looking for a voltage reading at one of the pins in and one out. The amp has test points for power and ground. i have used both as testing points and get a 12v reading. It makes sense that the remote is what isnt turning on as he suggested. Do i use the amps ground as the ground to test the pins for the pwm?
Perry if you are reading this.... thanks for all your help I look forwad to reading anything you write.
D
Apply +B, remote and ground to the amp as you normally would. Ground the meter's black lead to the ground for the amp. Measure the DC voltage for each pin on the PWM IC. If you deleted the datasheet, do a Google search. You'll get lots of sites from which to download the datasheet for the PWM IC. Post the voltages you read like this:
Pin 1: xx volts
Pin 2: xx volts
Pin 3...
Look at the datasheet for the pin numbering configuration for the IC.
From that point, someone here will be able to help. I'll check back regularly for your post.
Pin 1: xx volts
Pin 2: xx volts
Pin 3...
Look at the datasheet for the pin numbering configuration for the IC.
From that point, someone here will be able to help. I'll check back regularly for your post.
OK HERE WE GO.
THE SG3525AN READINGS for the linear power 2.2
pin 1: 0.00 volts
pin 2: 5.20 volts
pin 3: 0.021 volts
pin 4: 0.205 volts
pin 5: 2.053 volts
pin 6: 3.85 volts
pin 7: 2.032 volts
pin 8: 4.94 volts
pin 9: 6.07 volts
pin 10: 0.00 volts
pin 11: 5.20 volts
pin 12: 0.00 volts
pin 13: 11.69 volts
pin 14: 5.12 volts
pin 15: 12.59 volts
pin 16: 5.20 volts
now that I have these numbers what am i looking for?
thanks again.
THE SG3525AN READINGS for the linear power 2.2
pin 1: 0.00 volts
pin 2: 5.20 volts
pin 3: 0.021 volts
pin 4: 0.205 volts
pin 5: 2.053 volts
pin 6: 3.85 volts
pin 7: 2.032 volts
pin 8: 4.94 volts
pin 9: 6.07 volts
pin 10: 0.00 volts
pin 11: 5.20 volts
pin 12: 0.00 volts
pin 13: 11.69 volts
pin 14: 5.12 volts
pin 15: 12.59 volts
pin 16: 5.20 volts
now that I have these numbers what am i looking for?
thanks again.
It looks like the chip is running and producing output.
Measure the DC voltage on the legs of the 4 rectifier diodes near the middle of the heatsink (near the large capacitors). You can list the various voltages randomly. If you have several close to the same value, only list the value once.
What model meter do you have?
Measure the DC voltage on the legs of the 4 rectifier diodes near the middle of the heatsink (near the large capacitors). You can list the various voltages randomly. If you have several close to the same value, only list the value once.
What model meter do you have?
OK HERE IS THE INFO
first the meter i have is a fluke 23. second i tested the l.e.d with the amps b+, gnd and remote on..... nada. no power to either leg i did a continunity test on the l.e.d. and didnt get a tone. ill feel foolish if it has a bad l.e.d.
i want sure which diodes you needed were so i got all of them that i could see
ill list them as follows
d1 leg 1: 12.54 volts, leg 2: 0.00
d2 leg 1: 12.51 volts, leg 2: 12.49
d3 leg 1: 12.65 volts, leg 2: 0.00
d4 leg 1: volts, leg 2:
d5 leg 1: volts, leg 2:
d6 leg 1: 0.027 volts, leg 2: 0.034
d7 leg 1: 0.040 volts, leg 2: 0.028
d8 leg 1: 0.031 volts, leg 2: 0.014
d9 leg 1: 0.020 volts, leg 2: 0.020
d10 leg 1: 0.016 volts, leg 2: 0.020
d11 leg 1: 12.60 volts, leg 2: 12.60
d12 leg 1: volts, leg 2:
d13 leg 1: 0.027 volts, leg 2: 0.035
d14 leg 1: 0.020 volts, leg 2: 0.020
d15 leg 1: 0.062 volts, leg 2: 0.031
the blank ones i couldnt find.
i also tested the other chips
U1 (4N26 8047)
pin 1: 0.004 volts
pin 2: 0.025 volts
pin 3: 0.002 volts
pin 4: 0.000 volts
pin 5: 12.53 volts
pin 6: 0.001 volts
U2 (klh9612)
pin 1: 0.00 volts
pin 2: 12.50 volts
pin 3: 0.103 volts
pin 4: 12.48 volts
pin 5: 8.38 volts
pin 6: 0.004 volts
pin 7: 0.004 volts
pin 8: 12.60 volts
U5 (op275)
pin 1: 0.023 volts
pin 2: 0.020 volts
pin 3: 0.018 volts
pin 4: 0.026 volts
pin 5: 0.018 volts
pin 6: 0.018 volts
pin 7: 6.00 +/- volts
pin 8: 4.00 +/- volts
pins 7 and 8 on U5 started off @ 2 volts and climbed to the numbers i posted... they never stopped but would fluctuate.. those number being a close average.
U6 (op275)
pin 1: 0.027 volts
pin 2: 0.024 volts
pin 3: 0.021 volts
pin 4: 0.025 volts
pin 5: 0.032volts
pin 6: 0.019 volts
pin 7: 0.025 volts
pin 8: 0.018 volts
ok so that is what i have tested. what is my next step?
Thanks all, i really appreciate the school sessions.
D
first the meter i have is a fluke 23. second i tested the l.e.d with the amps b+, gnd and remote on..... nada. no power to either leg i did a continunity test on the l.e.d. and didnt get a tone. ill feel foolish if it has a bad l.e.d.
i want sure which diodes you needed were so i got all of them that i could see
ill list them as follows
d1 leg 1: 12.54 volts, leg 2: 0.00
d2 leg 1: 12.51 volts, leg 2: 12.49
d3 leg 1: 12.65 volts, leg 2: 0.00
d4 leg 1: volts, leg 2:
d5 leg 1: volts, leg 2:
d6 leg 1: 0.027 volts, leg 2: 0.034
d7 leg 1: 0.040 volts, leg 2: 0.028
d8 leg 1: 0.031 volts, leg 2: 0.014
d9 leg 1: 0.020 volts, leg 2: 0.020
d10 leg 1: 0.016 volts, leg 2: 0.020
d11 leg 1: 12.60 volts, leg 2: 12.60
d12 leg 1: volts, leg 2:
d13 leg 1: 0.027 volts, leg 2: 0.035
d14 leg 1: 0.020 volts, leg 2: 0.020
d15 leg 1: 0.062 volts, leg 2: 0.031
the blank ones i couldnt find.
i also tested the other chips
U1 (4N26 8047)
pin 1: 0.004 volts
pin 2: 0.025 volts
pin 3: 0.002 volts
pin 4: 0.000 volts
pin 5: 12.53 volts
pin 6: 0.001 volts
U2 (klh9612)
pin 1: 0.00 volts
pin 2: 12.50 volts
pin 3: 0.103 volts
pin 4: 12.48 volts
pin 5: 8.38 volts
pin 6: 0.004 volts
pin 7: 0.004 volts
pin 8: 12.60 volts
U5 (op275)
pin 1: 0.023 volts
pin 2: 0.020 volts
pin 3: 0.018 volts
pin 4: 0.026 volts
pin 5: 0.018 volts
pin 6: 0.018 volts
pin 7: 6.00 +/- volts
pin 8: 4.00 +/- volts
pins 7 and 8 on U5 started off @ 2 volts and climbed to the numbers i posted... they never stopped but would fluctuate.. those number being a close average.
U6 (op275)
pin 1: 0.027 volts
pin 2: 0.024 volts
pin 3: 0.021 volts
pin 4: 0.025 volts
pin 5: 0.032volts
pin 6: 0.019 volts
pin 7: 0.025 volts
pin 8: 0.018 volts
ok so that is what i have tested. what is my next step?
Thanks all, i really appreciate the school sessions.
D
HERE ARE THE NUMBERS
THE 4 DIODES in the middle are as follows
IIDN1II leg 1: 0.02 volts leg 2: 0.02 volts
IIDP2II leg 1: 0.02 volts leg 2: 0.02 volts
IIDN2II leg 1: 0.01 volts leg 2: 0.01 volts
IIDP1II leg 1: 0.01 volts leg 2: 0.01 volts
I also checked q41, q42, q43 and q44 values are
Q41: leg 1 12.56 volts, leg 2 12.48 volts, leg 3 11.76 volts
Q42: leg 1 12.56 volts, leg 2 11.87 volts, leg 3 12.56 volts
Q43: leg 1 12.49 volts, leg 2 12.56 volts, leg 3 0.00 volts
Q44: leg 1 0.03 volts, leg 2 0.69 volts, leg 3 0.00 volts
what is next.......
ill get this thing hammered out yet!
THE 4 DIODES in the middle are as follows
IIDN1II leg 1: 0.02 volts leg 2: 0.02 volts
IIDP2II leg 1: 0.02 volts leg 2: 0.02 volts
IIDN2II leg 1: 0.01 volts leg 2: 0.01 volts
IIDP1II leg 1: 0.01 volts leg 2: 0.01 volts
I also checked q41, q42, q43 and q44 values are
Q41: leg 1 12.56 volts, leg 2 12.48 volts, leg 3 11.76 volts
Q42: leg 1 12.56 volts, leg 2 11.87 volts, leg 3 12.56 volts
Q43: leg 1 12.49 volts, leg 2 12.56 volts, leg 3 0.00 volts
Q44: leg 1 0.03 volts, leg 2 0.69 volts, leg 3 0.00 volts
what is next.......
ill get this thing hammered out yet!Those meter readings indicate that the transformer is not being driven (I'm assuming that they were taken with the amp powered on). Since the power supply output voltages indicated that the chip was up and running, there is likely a problem in the drive circuit of the power supply transistors or the PS transistors may have failed. It's also possible that the amp has gone into protection and the drive circuit has been shut down.
Power up the amp and measure both AC and DC voltage from the top of the 2n5302 PS transistors to ground. If they're all similar, you need only post a single value for both AC and DC.
Can you email me a high resolution photo of the underside of the circuit board?
If/when you remove the board from the heatsink, there is likely to be a lot of white thermal grease so you will want to do it on some old newspaper. Put the screws in a plastic bag so you don't lose them and so the grease doesn't make a mess. Don't put the heatsink screws in the same bag as the screws that hold on the end plates/covers. Don't let the grease get onto the black end plate of the amp. Depending on the finish, the grease may not be easily cleaned from the surface. Try to keep the grease from picking up debris. It's important that the grease stay free from debris. Even a tiny piece of solid material can prevent proper mating when the amp is reassembled and may prevent the transistors from cooling properly.
Power up the amp and measure both AC and DC voltage from the top of the 2n5302 PS transistors to ground. If they're all similar, you need only post a single value for both AC and DC.
Can you email me a high resolution photo of the underside of the circuit board?
If/when you remove the board from the heatsink, there is likely to be a lot of white thermal grease so you will want to do it on some old newspaper. Put the screws in a plastic bag so you don't lose them and so the grease doesn't make a mess. Don't put the heatsink screws in the same bag as the screws that hold on the end plates/covers. Don't let the grease get onto the black end plate of the amp. Depending on the finish, the grease may not be easily cleaned from the surface. Try to keep the grease from picking up debris. It's important that the grease stay free from debris. Even a tiny piece of solid material can prevent proper mating when the amp is reassembled and may prevent the transistors from cooling properly.
ac and dc voltages
for the transistors labeled (2N5302)
ALL DC voltages are 0.00 on both legs of all 8 transistors on the ps side
All AC voltages are all 1.10 volts on the outside and 0.00 volts on the inside on the power supply side.
the other 8 transistors range (MJ15022)
DC all legs are 0.00 volts
AC 0.24-0.30 volts on the outside and 0.21-0.40 volts in the inside
next move please.
for the transistors labeled (2N5302)
ALL DC voltages are 0.00 on both legs of all 8 transistors on the ps side
All AC voltages are all 1.10 volts on the outside and 0.00 volts on the inside on the power supply side.
the other 8 transistors range (MJ15022)
DC all legs are 0.00 volts
AC 0.24-0.30 volts on the outside and 0.21-0.40 volts in the inside
next move please.
THANKS PERRY IT IS FIXED
2N5302..... REPLACED ALL 8 TRANSISTORS
powered it up with a 5 amp fuse.... and it blew. changed my power source....... changed the 5 amp fuse..... led lit up and i wired a 8 ohm speaker to it.... and gave her some signal....... and she played. i know im not done........ but im really happy about it. it isnt a expensive paper weight any more.
i need to get on a good power supply and see what i can hear... i was hearing some noise and im getting some cross channel noise. but htat could have been my rca's
i will try it out in the vehicle this weekend and see what it will do.
Perry thanks alot. im ready for the other thread on the other amp.
is there any other testing that i need to do?
2N5302..... REPLACED ALL 8 TRANSISTORS
powered it up with a 5 amp fuse.... and it blew. changed my power source....... changed the 5 amp fuse..... led lit up and i wired a 8 ohm speaker to it.... and gave her some signal....... and she played. i know im not done........ but im really happy about it. it isnt a expensive paper weight any more.
i need to get on a good power supply and see what i can hear... i was hearing some noise and im getting some cross channel noise. but htat could have been my rca's
i will try it out in the vehicle this weekend and see what it will do.
Perry thanks alot. im ready for the other thread on the other amp.
is there any other testing that i need to do?
For this amp, I think you need to install it in your vehicle (just as you planned to do).
I'd suggest that you use a relatively small fuse (20A) and play it at low to moderate volume for a while (15-20 minutes). If there are no apparent problems, play it as hard as you normally would. If the 20 amp fuse didn't blow when you were playing it during the initial testing, it's probably safe to go to the recommended fuse so that you can play it at normal/full volume.
Find the other post and reply to it to bring it to the top.
I'd suggest that you use a relatively small fuse (20A) and play it at low to moderate volume for a while (15-20 minutes). If there are no apparent problems, play it as hard as you normally would. If the 20 amp fuse didn't blow when you were playing it during the initial testing, it's probably safe to go to the recommended fuse so that you can play it at normal/full volume.
Find the other post and reply to it to bring it to the top.
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