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blown rockford t10001bd
blown rockford t10001bd
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Old 11th October 2005, 06:43 AM   #1
jbimbane is offline jbimbane  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Angry blown rockford t10001bd

hi i keep seeing posts regarding blown these types of amplifiers, and now that one of my own is blown i'm curious what steps we are taking to repair them. I have it opened and since it's not authorized RF dealer purchased i don't give a f*, but anyway the piece that was odd after it blew it's main fuse and began it's improper working condition the two prongs to the terminal for +/- on the fan wires was burnt on the bottom of the board, so this was removed. Tried to power it on and it hasn't changed its condition. I don't see any blown MOSFETs and am curious what steps i should take to begin repairs. As I don't have a job right now i cannot afford to pay to repair it, and it won't sell for nearly half as much as i paid for it now.
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Old 11th October 2005, 05:25 PM   #2
Perry Babin is offline Perry Babin  United States
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
I'm familiar with the BD1000s but I haven't seen the T1000 yet. If no one else can help, post at least one clear photo of the internals and if it's similar to the older amps, I'll try to guide you through the repair.
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Old 28th October 2005, 07:00 AM   #3
jbimbane is offline jbimbane  United States
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Join Date: Oct 2005
The insides. the blurry picture is where i desoldered the fan connection that had burns on the back behind the heatsink.
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Old 28th October 2005, 07:00 AM   #4
jbimbane is offline jbimbane  United States
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Default #2

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Old 28th October 2005, 06:24 PM   #5
jbimbane is offline jbimbane  United States
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i know these pictures are tiny as *****. email me jbimbane@hotmail.com if you want big 2meg fullsize pics! thx!
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Old 29th October 2005, 08:59 AM   #6
sdoom is offline sdoom  Germany
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Heidelberg

Usually the fans are fed with 12V directly, that means itīs unlikely that the fan or the fan- curcuits would cause the main fuse to blow.

When main fuses blow most of the time Mosfets are blown or the control curcuit that drives the mosfets is not working properly. This can cause all mosfets to "stay open" all the time and thus generating a short through the transformer coils.

Because of the high current draw the amp has now itīs hard to start measuring to determine where the fault comes from.

Usually amplifiers have working protection curcuits (ok, those curcuits are often too slow to prevent a damage if something goes wrong when driving the amplifier hard but they usullay keep the SMPS off when there is a real short in the music section.) These type of curcuits even work in cheap amplifiers. So I would assume thereīs a fault in the SMPS.

The bigger mosfets often donīt look burned when they are fried. When I start fixing amplifiers I always resolder all the power parts first. A lot of faults are caused by bad solder joints.

Then I use a diode-tester (if your multimeter doesnīt have this use the ohmmeter function) and check the big rectifier diodes. Those are connected to the output coils of the transformer. Check the diodesīlegs . If you take a closer look at the diodes, you see that there are two diodes in one housing. And when you compare the diodes you see that there are diode(s) that has(ve) two connected anodes, the other(s) has(ve) two connected catodes. There musntībe short if you test each anode-to-catode way. ( each measurement will slowly encrease resistance(or cause the diode tester to increase the voltage you read at the mutimeter) , thatīs because your meter chrages the big capacitors, wait a few seconds until the capacitors are charged) but if there is a short , take the diodes out and test the diodes again. if there is still a short you have faulty diodes. If the diodes are ok check the curcuit board with the diode tester. If you find the short there you could have faulty capacitors (unlikely) or something in the music section is damaged.

Once finished with the rectifier diodes check the mosfet legs for a direct short. If you find a short at a mosfet, it is burned. If there is one faulty mosfet Iīd suggest to take them all out off the curcuit board.

Here is a small test curcuit for N-channel mosfets.

Click the image to open in full size.

When all the fets are out you can connect power to the amplifier. Use a small 12V power supply that will only deliver 2 Amps . Thatīs enough to drive a car amplifier w/o load. Also connect a 2Ohm /10W power-resistor in series with the +12V cable. This way you prevent all parts from burning if therewould still be a fault in the amp (in case of a short, the amp would draw a huge current, the current causes a voltage drop at the resistor thus limiting the max. current that could ever flow, you can also use a 12V/10W light bulb for that)

When the mosfets are out of the curcuit board connect the power as mentionend. Connect 12V to RMT. The amp should try to power up.

Use a scope and connect it to GND and to each gate- resistor (each mosfet has a gate resistor, usually something around 10-100 Ohms) . You should see a nice square wave at every gate resistor. If itīs there, the smps controller curcuits should have survived. If there is nothing or the signals look scrambled you can trace your way backwards to find out why the smps controller doesnīt power up / causes a bad signal. Usually the controller-IC does not drive the mosfets directly. there small signal transistors in line to drive the mosfets. When mosfets burn, sometimes the small transistors also burn.

Also, please check what kind of smps-controller is used . There should be a small IC , usually near the transformer. I know with SMD-parts itīs hard to read whatīs written on the parts. Check for numbers if you find a "494" or a "2525" or "3525" ... those are the most common controller -ICs used in car amplifiers.

Let us know what you find out.

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