600 *REAL* watts amp?

[hipyo]

OK some of u guys may know that my old amp broke well the crossover broke check over with the internal crossover blown thread anyways I am now looking for an amp that is around 600 *real* watts and that is reliable.... The only thing is im very cheap im looking for the same price or around my old amp.... $50... If you guys can find or kno of any good amps please post the price,where I can buy, and how many *real* watts it has no more than 600 though my subs can handle 300 each good luck on this search for amps I will be posting ones that i find that i think are good for ur guys opinion... i want an amp that will last THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS

[swordfish689]

50bucks, and 600 real watts. All i can say is good luck buddy. You need to spend at least 100, and still if will be hard to find an amp at the price.

[sr20dem0n]

hah, the last amp I sold was a budget amp that did 800rms, and it sold for $200. The one before that was also a budget amp that did 400rms, and it sold for $150, and these were both used. You aren't going to find anything that can do 600rms for under $100, and you aren't going to find anything that can do 600rms reliably for under $150. I wouldn't even think about spending less than $200 on a 600rms amp personally, you'll just end up with the same crap you had before.

[dnsey]

Why do you want 600Watts anyway?
It's only twice as loud as 60W, which should be plenty for ICE.
I doubt that you'd actually hear any difference between, say, 300W and 600W, even assuming that your hearing is still intact

[sr20dem0n]

Originally posted by dnsey
Why do you want 600Watts anyway?
It's only twice as loud as 60W, which should be plenty for ICE.
I doubt that you'd actually hear any difference between, say, 300W and 600W, even assuming that your hearing is still intact

I take it you've never managed to clip your headunit's built in amp while listening to music? Because many people have, I would say most but there are so many grandmas out there who don't even know what a radio is that throw off the poll. Anyway, that's around 20 watts per speaker, if you're using a pair of speakers in the front, even with nothing in the back, that's 40 watts on your front stage which isn't enough. Subwoofers are typically 6-10dB less efficient than your front stage speakers, which means they need 4-10 times as much power just to reach the same level. If 40 watts on your front stage wasn't enough, then 400 watts on one of the less efficient subs out there wouldn't be enough either. Of course you have cabin gain which helps a bit, but then again 99% of the people out there don't listen to their sub at the right level anyway, they listen to it at least 10dB louder than the front stage. 600rms on a car sub setup is very reasonable in my opinion, especially if that sub is a 10 or a 12 and is sealed. Besides, there's nothing wrong with headroom at all, the more power you have available the better.

[Safe_Cracker]

But then again, since he has been running a poo poo amp a real 600 watt amp will sound like 2000 for sure! I do agree, more is better, a lot more control less chance of damage. You can exceed the maximum rating by quite a bit and as long as the subs are going through FULL excursion it will have adaquate cooling to keep from burning the coil. I am running 3 P2s (200W rms) with a single PG X1200.1 and It sounds great, plenty of drive. I know it is definately pushing the current, the other day I popped an 80A fuse during some old Bass 305, so I went back to the recommended 100A ANL. If I was you I would save a couple of bucks and buy the Pheonix Gold X600.1 mono block, great little amp and sounds like a much bigger one. I see them for a little over $200 on E-bay. JMHO...Polo..

[xplod1236]

Just out of curiosity, how does the JBL GTO1201.1 (I/II) compare with the previously mentioned amps? It puts out 800 wrms at 4 ohms and 1200 wrms at 2 ohms. Is it a good/reliable amp? They're sold on ebay for $300.

[sr20dem0n]

Originally posted by xplod1236
Just out of curiosity, how does the JBL GTO1201.1 (I/II) compare with the previously mentioned amps? It puts out 800 wrms at 4 ohms and 1200 wrms at 2 ohms. Is it a good/reliable amp? They're sold on ebay for $300.

Thier older BP series amps got a lot of praise, supposedly they didn't enjoy being run at 1ohm but they were fine at 2ohm (rated stable at 1ohm, but did the same power at 1 or 2ohm). Several of their new amps are made together with Crown and they're supposed to be nice, but I'm not sure about this one.

As a side note, it claims to have a damping factor of 6....unless they measure damping factor differently, that's horrible and should not even be advertised.

[Safe_Cracker]

Mannn, only a 6, lol ? The fact of several amps claiming to be stable down to 1 ohm but looking around and finding reviews that contradict what they advertise is a sure way to make up your mind. What I have found that many a manufacture claims have been cut short due to heat saturation. At 1 ohm the sucker is near a short and developes a lot of heat. That is why I went with a Pheonix Gold , Xenon series amp. It produces full power at any load, from 4 down to 1 ohm. You don't need to run it so low to get all the power. I do anyways because I am a Jerk like that, lol. Here is a picture of my X1200.1, the X600.1 is similar. The whole bottom of the amp is one huge heatsink backed by a variable fan. It keeps it at a predetermined correct operating temperature. If indeed something happens and heat sets in, it will reduce power to maintain coolness instead of shutting down, may many other features too, lol..Let us know what you choose! Polo..

PS- If you get a PG amp, let me know I have the configuration so you can make your own remote bass knob...

[Safe_Cracker]

Sorry here is the picture, hahahhaa..