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#111 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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#112 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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Hi All,
This all the designs (Post #616 and before) are design by my best Friend, But he dont want to giving this designs to all the guys so sorry and I cant help any body.dont mail me for the designs.He is hurt than I have stop to put his designs here. |
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#113 |
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diyAudio Member
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Who-to-use, high-power Class D schematic diagram of the hair to think about points. Thank you!
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#114 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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hi,
can i replace fmu22r and fmu22s with FEP16GT? One positive CT and one negative CT. I'm still learning and I don't know what to look for but I need to find a local replacement. Any other common replacements? |
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#115 |
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diyAudio Member
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Shouldn't be a problem, if you know voltage & current ratings of the diodes you're putting in. An easier approach: Sample some ultra-fast diodes from On Semiconductor. Specifically: MUR1620CT (+) and MUR1620CTR (-). Rated at 200PIV, and 8A per leg.
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#116 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Thank you! I can get that at a shop here
![]() I took the liberty to attempt to test just the amplifier board today by hooking it up to a 30 volt 5 amp transformer i had around. The signal was a mono 3.5 jack i hooked up to a cd player. All I got was a loud buzzing... I unplugged it after a bit of smoke started coming from the board. All of the transistors stayed cool. I used a 470 ohm trimpot instead of the 330 one called for. As well i used a 2.3k resistor where it called for a 2k2 resistor. Are my lack luster results due to using a 30-0-30 transformer and a cd player? I may have hooked up the transformer backwards, ie 40+ to 30- and 40- to 30+ as it was a surplus buy and had no markings. If the problem is the board itself I've got a lot of extra parts and I think I'll tear it down and start over. Maybe even try to be a bit more attentive this time... |
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#117 |
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diyAudio Member
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Lemon,
First, start out by taking raw AC measurements across all the transformer secondaries before you connect them (assumed thru a rectifier & filter cap) to anything! Remember, if you read 30VAC, it's really peaking out at 42.42V, so you will wan to t de-rate your amp's voltage operating points, if possible. Second, once you have sorted out all the secondaries, connect your rectifier bridge and two caps and measure the (+) & (-) voltages. Once you're satisfied you have good readings, correct any of the damage you mave done to the main amp board, and try it again. Steve
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#118 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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The bridge rectifier is putting out 36 volts dc. Shouldn't it be 60ish volts between the positive and negative wire? Anyways, I have one 3300 uF capacitor between positive and ground and negative and ground. I tried it again after cleaning up alot of stuff. I did it without a speaker and it stayed cool so I hooked it up to a speaker without a signal coming in and pooff the speaker went up in smoke. It was a free two way speaker with 120 watts max power, but the problem is that there was a hum while it was hooked up... and that it fried...
Why would the amp be putting out so much power with no signal? :| so I'm guessing that means transistors are fried. How can I check this? |
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#119 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Im slowly working through my errors now. This is my first audio amplifier project, I'm a first year mechanical engineering student and it's quite humbling to learn how little you know!
Will I be able to test this amplifier on my 30 volt CT transformer? Which I now realize is putting out +/-18V DC at 5A max... I hope its sufficient because I'd like to test at a low voltage at first. Thanks for the help! I'm sure a lot of you hate teenagers coming here requesting how to make a subwoofer amplifier but I'm trying to learn
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#120 |
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diyAudio Member
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If you set your feedback to lower voltage, you will have lower voltage on output
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