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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
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Hi!
This is my first car audio amplifier prototype, it's based on the TL598 pwm controller and the OPA549 power op-amp, supply rails run at +/- 29V (regulated), the heatsink/chassis can't disipate the heat for long periods at rms-power tests, but the amplifier can deliver 75Wrms@4ohms for a short time. The pictures are very bad, but at least shows the amplifier
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Looks good. Do you have a lid? I'd put a fan on it and use forced-air cooling. Maybe that will help.
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Check out Tube Driver BLUE products at: www.tubedriver.com |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Chicago
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That looks great!!! I second the fan idea. Use a small fan and underpower it so it is quieter. You could even use two in a puch pull configuration.
How does it sound? |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: cosmological consciousness
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It is very beautiful and simple as it should be.
If you can make a amplifier to give 800watts rms at 4 ohms i will buy it
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Chicago
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If he could get 80wrms a chan. and make it sound great I would love to try to build something like this.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
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In a few days I will reply in more detail, sorry, this days I can't.
Greetings from México. Juan Carlos |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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I should have seen this before. Do you have hold-down bars for your power devices? You probably won't even need a fan(o dos) if you can press those bad boys to the sink.
__________________
Check out Tube Driver BLUE products at: www.tubedriver.com |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
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Quote:
Yes, I have a lid for the amplifier (and better pictures): The lid assembly isn’t finished yet, that’s the reason why you don’t see any screws . A fan isn’t considered because at normal listening tests (music) the amplifier doesn’t get too hot . How does it sound?, mmm, I can only say that sounds good to me, you’ll see I don’t have much listening experience with “reference equipment”, also as you can read, my english is not good (not as good as I wish) so, I have a lot of ideas that I don’t know how to translate properly (I’m working on it but any help will be welcome). I do have bars to press the power devices (the pictures in the first post shows an unfinished interior) The bad news: The supply was not stable (at 1Khz and producing 75Wrms@4 ohms on a single channel it was), I did the feedback compensation wrong (anyway it is only a prototype so it worked for that purpose) and burnt the mosfets twice (one time at continuous power test, trying to get the same 75Wrms@4ohms but this time at 20Hz and the other at full music power test with both channels driven), so a new design is coming soon. Juan Carlos |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Connecticut
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Very nice. What did you use for a fuse socket?
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dave |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
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I took the fuse socket idea from an old sony amplifier.
With a couple of faston connectors like these: ![]() I removed the plastic cover, soldered a pair of wires (as indicated in the next picture) and bended the part "a" and the wires so I could solder the connectors in a through hole fashion. ![]() That way, the socket (or better said each connector) is fixed firmly to the pcb |
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