im lost tring to hook up my old PR 250 w/ seprate pre amp. There is five wires that i have no clue about two black one yellow one cream and one red. I know what the heaver gage white and black are but on the other ones im lost. then there is the four RCA jacks that go from the pre-amp to the radio there is a red, yellow, white, and black. i have only one set of outs on my deck. One more thing who could i send the amp to and get it fixed if it blows.
Hi, i'm not the person who wrote this, but i think you will find it
useful
Wiring:
White 12 AWG +12V battery
Black 12 AWG ground (to car chassis)
Red remote trigger. This will have to be tested as the earlier units
used current sense, i.e. a "load" (power to supply the radio via its
accessory wire) to turn on the unit. If you supply +12V to this wire on
an early unit it will fry the remote circuit. Try connecting the white
and black power cables and then touch a test light to the red wire (this
may be one of the last legitimate uses for test lights). If it lights up
and the amp comes on, you have the current sensing unit. You may need to
use a relay triggered by your radio's remote out and a 200 ohm resistor
to create a load to trigger the amp. Connecting the red wire to the
radio's accessory wire used to work but most radios now will have some
illumination load and cause the amp to stay on when the radio is off.
If the red wire doesn't test "hot", try connecting it to the remote out
from your radio. If it doesn't power up with the red and white wire
receiving 12V and the black wire grounded, it's dead.
Orange Left+ speaker
Yellow Right+ speaker
Blacks Speaker negatives (they're common with each other)
The DIN plug has both input signal pins and a +/- 15 volt supply in it.
The siganl pins are on either side of the center top pin, which is
signal ground. The outer bottom pins are the +/- 15V pins and care
should be taken to make sure they don't come into contact with the audio
signal or you'll appreciate how volcanic these early direct-coupled amps
are.
useful
Wiring:
White 12 AWG +12V battery
Black 12 AWG ground (to car chassis)
Red remote trigger. This will have to be tested as the earlier units
used current sense, i.e. a "load" (power to supply the radio via its
accessory wire) to turn on the unit. If you supply +12V to this wire on
an early unit it will fry the remote circuit. Try connecting the white
and black power cables and then touch a test light to the red wire (this
may be one of the last legitimate uses for test lights). If it lights up
and the amp comes on, you have the current sensing unit. You may need to
use a relay triggered by your radio's remote out and a 200 ohm resistor
to create a load to trigger the amp. Connecting the red wire to the
radio's accessory wire used to work but most radios now will have some
illumination load and cause the amp to stay on when the radio is off.
If the red wire doesn't test "hot", try connecting it to the remote out
from your radio. If it doesn't power up with the red and white wire
receiving 12V and the black wire grounded, it's dead.
Orange Left+ speaker
Yellow Right+ speaker
Blacks Speaker negatives (they're common with each other)
The DIN plug has both input signal pins and a +/- 15 volt supply in it.
The siganl pins are on either side of the center top pin, which is
signal ground. The outer bottom pins are the +/- 15V pins and care
should be taken to make sure they don't come into contact with the audio
signal or you'll appreciate how volcanic these early direct-coupled amps
are.
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