I Need an amplifier at 100W or more, and to be cheap as possible, I dont need it for sound, however I do need an audio amp.
I need whitenoise blasted into a box, in theory it will make the water molecules 'shake appart' now if this works thats great, if it dosnt I dont want to have lost alot of money yaknow?
Ive got the box (which is a half arsed version)
Now heres the specs that I know of:
- It will preferably be mono, I only need one output
- It will preferably be at 100W or more of real power (i dont know all the terms but i know that i need it at min 100W and as high as 2000W is fine (if its somehow cheaper)
- I dont want a filter that I know of, I'm hitting it with white noise, which is basicly that annoying static.
- I need it to ouput at preferably 1.5V or 12V is ok (it can be slightly higher and slightly lower, for the lower 1.2 - 1.8V is fine, and for the 12V quite literally as long as its constant anything will work, but I cant yet handel more then 15V with my setup
- Preferably if this is modular, or someway that I can use it to build a 1000+W system would be nice, although not really required. (if I get the results I expect im going to need more power)
Can anybody help me here? I'm not afraid to build anything (heck I built my white noise generator) I simply need this to be as cheap as humanly possible, and if i get lets say part a which requires a $1000 part B, then part a is still to high, yaknow?
Thanks in advance for your help!
and if sombody has asked a similar question or somthing and i missed it during my 2 hours worth of searching, please excuse me, im not always good with syntax, so could you tell me the syntax you used?
I need whitenoise blasted into a box, in theory it will make the water molecules 'shake appart' now if this works thats great, if it dosnt I dont want to have lost alot of money yaknow?
Ive got the box (which is a half arsed version)
Now heres the specs that I know of:
- It will preferably be mono, I only need one output
- It will preferably be at 100W or more of real power (i dont know all the terms but i know that i need it at min 100W and as high as 2000W is fine (if its somehow cheaper)
- I dont want a filter that I know of, I'm hitting it with white noise, which is basicly that annoying static.
- I need it to ouput at preferably 1.5V or 12V is ok (it can be slightly higher and slightly lower, for the lower 1.2 - 1.8V is fine, and for the 12V quite literally as long as its constant anything will work, but I cant yet handel more then 15V with my setup
- Preferably if this is modular, or someway that I can use it to build a 1000+W system would be nice, although not really required. (if I get the results I expect im going to need more power)
Can anybody help me here? I'm not afraid to build anything (heck I built my white noise generator) I simply need this to be as cheap as humanly possible, and if i get lets say part a which requires a $1000 part B, then part a is still to high, yaknow?
Thanks in advance for your help!
and if sombody has asked a similar question or somthing and i missed it during my 2 hours worth of searching, please excuse me, im not always good with syntax, so could you tell me the syntax you used?
I used blast because, I couldnt spell I had a brain fart, I need it to resonante, to basicly shake the watter molecules appart in an otherwise standard eletrolisys box. I hope to achieve enough gas to run little engines (like a lawnmower) with great efficency, and relativly small size. (although granted not that small)
It also needs to run off of a 12 V system, Idealy the lawnmower will power an alternator or other charging device to power a battery to run this, so im going to assume its the same as a cars eletrical system, which is between 12 and 13.8 right?
I think im going to go with the LM3886 amp chip design thing, But now I'm in the process of finding a DC - DC converter, which will take the 12 VDC in and give me 35- and 35+ DC i think is how it goes, although it seams thats sopposed to be a total of around 70V, but it dosnt make sence to me, why not just say 70VDC? o well...... maybe ill find the answer... any help will be appriceated, as i will post once ive got a plan to have it ran over by sombody with more intelegence then me, so I dont make a mistake...
IT seams the LM3886 (using around 3) will give me around 150 Watts, is this true? and it seams it will cost only around $30-40
also one thing i dont quite get, can the DC to DC converter ment for 3 of these, handel 50?
TIA again!
It also needs to run off of a 12 V system, Idealy the lawnmower will power an alternator or other charging device to power a battery to run this, so im going to assume its the same as a cars eletrical system, which is between 12 and 13.8 right?
I think im going to go with the LM3886 amp chip design thing, But now I'm in the process of finding a DC - DC converter, which will take the 12 VDC in and give me 35- and 35+ DC i think is how it goes, although it seams thats sopposed to be a total of around 70V, but it dosnt make sence to me, why not just say 70VDC? o well...... maybe ill find the answer... any help will be appriceated, as i will post once ive got a plan to have it ran over by sombody with more intelegence then me, so I dont make a mistake...
IT seams the LM3886 (using around 3) will give me around 150 Watts, is this true? and it seams it will cost only around $30-40
also one thing i dont quite get, can the DC to DC converter ment for 3 of these, handel 50?
TIA again!
Ok Im going to give you guys a hypothetical on how it should work so you can better understand my position.....
First the electrolizer box consists of stainless steel plates (in my super cheap fasion, there actually used stainless steel wall plate covers (with the holes coverd in)) inside a box, which is basicly like a small rectangular fish tank, except the walls arnt made of glass there made of a special plastic, now all the plates are not allowed to touch anything but the walls and water, so eletricity going through them has to pass through the water... the end plates are connected to the output of strong whitenoise generator....
this is so we hit the resonant frequency, the water contains a one of a few chemicals (which i cant remember right now) but they are sopposed to help the water resonante, when that happens they will release more ammounts of 2 H2 and O2, (to be "happy" the atoms need a buddy)
now the box itself is connected to two diffrent things, through some kind of toroid, this part i dont quite understand fully, but from what i can tell it gives the box the whitenoise and 12 volts, this does 2 things, the whitenoise is for resonance only, and the 12 volts is to supply eletrons for normal dc eletrolisys, the later is commonly used today to slowly get hydrogen (its also severly expensive!)
This isnt somthing ive seen work, nor have i built before, i have a few parts however i found the plans online and became intrested in it, i talked to the person who posted them, then to sombody else, yada yada i ended up talking to a reclusive guy who says he discoverd this, but his shop got robbed frequently after he discoverd it.
now im not saying hes right, im not saying hes wrong, i simply want to find out without wasting too much money, there are several uses for the system if it works like he said (like running a car engine, which is a bit premature but if it works its possible) but i first need to know if it works, and find out all the variables yaknow?
Im not driving a speaker, from what i understand the toroid is there for 2 reasons, now please take this from sombody who knows nothing of your field, and try to get through my mindless babbel, the toroid connects the amp, the battery, and the box, it i guess lets the 12 volts go through and forces it to have whitenoise in it? or somthing like that, all i know is i need ATLEAST 100 Watt's MIN, and idealy 1000 Watts, however as this can possible do damage to it, I wont use my friends amp. so i need a cheap solution, and i dont think its coverd under anywarrenty, not like i can afford a $100 store bought amp anways,
and if your question still applies, i misunderstood and im sorry, can you rephrase it?
First the electrolizer box consists of stainless steel plates (in my super cheap fasion, there actually used stainless steel wall plate covers (with the holes coverd in)) inside a box, which is basicly like a small rectangular fish tank, except the walls arnt made of glass there made of a special plastic, now all the plates are not allowed to touch anything but the walls and water, so eletricity going through them has to pass through the water... the end plates are connected to the output of strong whitenoise generator....
this is so we hit the resonant frequency, the water contains a one of a few chemicals (which i cant remember right now) but they are sopposed to help the water resonante, when that happens they will release more ammounts of 2 H2 and O2, (to be "happy" the atoms need a buddy)
now the box itself is connected to two diffrent things, through some kind of toroid, this part i dont quite understand fully, but from what i can tell it gives the box the whitenoise and 12 volts, this does 2 things, the whitenoise is for resonance only, and the 12 volts is to supply eletrons for normal dc eletrolisys, the later is commonly used today to slowly get hydrogen (its also severly expensive!)
This isnt somthing ive seen work, nor have i built before, i have a few parts however i found the plans online and became intrested in it, i talked to the person who posted them, then to sombody else, yada yada i ended up talking to a reclusive guy who says he discoverd this, but his shop got robbed frequently after he discoverd it.
now im not saying hes right, im not saying hes wrong, i simply want to find out without wasting too much money, there are several uses for the system if it works like he said (like running a car engine, which is a bit premature but if it works its possible) but i first need to know if it works, and find out all the variables yaknow?
Im not driving a speaker, from what i understand the toroid is there for 2 reasons, now please take this from sombody who knows nothing of your field, and try to get through my mindless babbel, the toroid connects the amp, the battery, and the box, it i guess lets the 12 volts go through and forces it to have whitenoise in it? or somthing like that, all i know is i need ATLEAST 100 Watt's MIN, and idealy 1000 Watts, however as this can possible do damage to it, I wont use my friends amp. so i need a cheap solution, and i dont think its coverd under anywarrenty, not like i can afford a $100 store bought amp anways,
and if your question still applies, i misunderstood and im sorry, can you rephrase it?
Sigh...
This is one of those over-unity scams all over again. Tell me this guy's website so I can submit it to crank.net...
You cannot break the laws of physics, try as you may. You cannot get any more energy out of combusting the H2 and O2 that you get out of the water than you put in to dissasociate the water. You are converting from electricity to chemical to heat to work. That has a lot of losses, especially from the last step, and it's more efficient to just do electricity to work -- electric motors.
There have been dozens of these electrolysis schemes, among the thousands of other free energy scams. People never learn. I guess we can blame the state of science education in North America. They ought to teach critical thinking in high schools.
This is one of those over-unity scams all over again. Tell me this guy's website so I can submit it to crank.net...
You cannot break the laws of physics, try as you may. You cannot get any more energy out of combusting the H2 and O2 that you get out of the water than you put in to dissasociate the water. You are converting from electricity to chemical to heat to work. That has a lot of losses, especially from the last step, and it's more efficient to just do electricity to work -- electric motors.
There have been dozens of these electrolysis schemes, among the thousands of other free energy scams. People never learn. I guess we can blame the state of science education in North America. They ought to teach critical thinking in high schools.
Because I'm from florida im going to defend it
::notice the silence yet?:::
and i want to do this because i feel it may work, and if it dosnt i can probibly use everything twords somthing else, i mean it will still be a cheap amp right?
the box wasnt too much, and besides sombody else paid for it
back to florida, notice my lack of grammer and spelling? its not for lack of trying (well sometimes capatalizing things IS my fault im just lazy) I personally hold florida, and pinellas county responsible for my lack of literary skills.....
(ohh and BTW: i like your signature!)
::notice the silence yet?:::
and i want to do this because i feel it may work, and if it dosnt i can probibly use everything twords somthing else, i mean it will still be a cheap amp right?
the box wasnt too much, and besides sombody else paid for it
back to florida, notice my lack of grammer and spelling? its not for lack of trying (well sometimes capatalizing things IS my fault im just lazy) I personally hold florida, and pinellas county responsible for my lack of literary skills.....
(ohh and BTW: i like your signature!)
I was just joking about FL. My comment was a result of my dislike of the weather, not the people (in fact my brother lives there, though in Hillsborough, which may be better than Pinellas...).
If quality is not important, then a high powered amp is available for $150 here:
http://lanzar.com/citempage.asp?model=RBVPRO2500
It's a car amp, and I doubt the 1600 W is continuous -- it's probably peak, but that's still a lot. A couple of car batteries or an efficient switching supply should be good to power it.
If quality is not important, then a high powered amp is available for $150 here:
http://lanzar.com/citempage.asp?model=RBVPRO2500
It's a car amp, and I doubt the 1600 W is continuous -- it's probably peak, but that's still a lot. A couple of car batteries or an efficient switching supply should be good to power it.
Personally I hate FL, the weather yup I definatly hate that, the people (most of the people down here are just plain ignorant) and the politics, now I know there are stupid people everywhere, but I doubt in such large quantitys, and as far as politics, yeah thats everywhere, and im not getting into that, needless to say i personally think the grass is greaner in cuba!
ok enough about me bashing FL
I was under the impression that the LM3886 based amp circuit will be just fine, and its scalable (which is somthing i like), And I cant buy anything now, unless its for pennies...... literally, im more or less price shopping and trying to find a solution...
So eigther way if i still need the power supply, then I need to tackle that, i still havnt found ANYTHING to help me solve this! and ild prefer to build it on my own anways (if reasonably possible)
ok enough about me bashing FL
I was under the impression that the LM3886 based amp circuit will be just fine, and its scalable (which is somthing i like), And I cant buy anything now, unless its for pennies...... literally, im more or less price shopping and trying to find a solution...
So eigther way if i still need the power supply, then I need to tackle that, i still havnt found ANYTHING to help me solve this! and ild prefer to build it on my own anways
(if reasonably possible)
I've got the impression youve got somthing in mind! if so, got a link? if not, got a link anways I have seen mentions of class D but no class D themselves, is it an easy, DIY type deal?
the reason i ask is this below scares me:
from http://sound.westhost.com/faq.htm#amp-questions
So I ask are you 2 talking about the same thing?
the reason i ask is this below scares me:
from http://sound.westhost.com/faq.htm#amp-questions
So I ask are you 2 talking about the same thing?
Actually I'm going to bed, as it's 7:30 here and I've been up all night. I don't know anything about class-D/PWM amplifiers, and I've only used an oscilloscope once.
I really don't think you can really DIY cheaper than the car amplifier. You may even be able to use a car battery charger as the power supply.
For a low frequency (to 20 KHz) scope you can use a computer with a sound card and software such as http://polly.phys.msu.su/~zeld/oscill.html
But that's far too low a frequency for PWM and digital work.
I really don't think you can really DIY cheaper than the car amplifier. You may even be able to use a car battery charger as the power supply.
For a low frequency (to 20 KHz) scope you can use a computer with a sound card and software such as http://polly.phys.msu.su/~zeld/oscill.html
But that's far too low a frequency for PWM and digital work.
WAIT!, before you go I've got two broken car charges!, one is mine one isnt (yeah ok so technically i only have one....) it was left outside by a friend..... and it stopped working (gee go figure seeing as its RAINY SEASON! oye) anways, a good number of parts might be fine, if i can use them to get a -/+35V that would be great
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