Amperes, volts, ohms, "blowing" electronic components...

Datoyminaytah · 15th August 2004, 02:09 PM

I'm not sure which forum this is best for, but I'm asking in relation to a car amp.

I think I finally "get" the relationship between watts, amperes, volts, and ohms, but I want to make sure before I potentially fry something if I hook it up wrong.

If comparing electrical flow to water flowing through pipes...

volts = water pressure
ohms = restriction of pipe (e.g. diameter)
amperes = amount of water that actually flows (current)

I think this means, voltage doesn't "make" current flow, a high resistance could block it. You don't "apply" current, you apply volts, and current is "drawn" based on resistance.

Is that about right? If not, please enlighten me.

I think that means that you don't have to worry about supplying too much "current" to a component, right? You don't "supply" current, you supply voltage, and the component "draws" current based on it's resistance. Is that right?

OK, now my question:

For the 12 volt remote turn-on terminal of a car amplifier, which doesn't require much current, and has a much smaller connecting terminal than the 12 volt power terminal, would it be dangerous for testing purposes (testing the amp before installing it properly) to directly connect the remote turn-on terminal to the same wire as supplies the amplifier's power? Would that fry the amplifier? Would a resistor in series with this connection be required, or would that drop the voltage too low?

Still a little confused, and haven't been able to find this info anywhere.

li_gangyi · 15th August 2004, 02:50 PM

yes...you should be able to use 12V to trigger the remote...

trailsnail85 · 15th August 2004, 03:27 PM

yea you can use a peice of wire and run it into the terminal with the power wire and the amp will turn on. friend does this with a swicth on the jumper between the power and remote an uses that to turn on the amp. hes a to lazy to run a remote wire right.

DilutedImage · 17th August 2004, 01:13 AM

Correct ... The remote turn-on accepts 12v ... It will draw the current it needs.

xplod1236 · 17th August 2004, 03:15 AM

Quote:

Correct ... The remote turn-on accepts 12v ... It will draw the current it needs.

Just out of curiosity, how much current does it usually draw (average amplifier)?

Immo_G · 17th August 2004, 03:32 AM

Should be under 200ma, and probably around 40-50ma. You can use thin wire for this, not sure why some amps have the 8ga spot for it.

Tensop · 17th August 2004, 04:19 AM

Cost management
Cheaper to buy a 3 terminal 8 guage socket than a 2 terminal 8 guage socket and a 22 guage socket

15th August 2004, 02:09 PM	#1
Datoyminaytah diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Connecticut, USA	Amperes, volts, ohms, "blowing" electronic components... I'm not sure which forum this is best for, but I'm asking in relation to a car amp. I think I finally "get" the relationship between watts, amperes, volts, and ohms, but I want to make sure before I potentially fry something if I hook it up wrong. If comparing electrical flow to water flowing through pipes... volts = water pressure ohms = restriction of pipe (e.g. diameter) amperes = amount of water that actually flows (current) I think this means, voltage doesn't "make" current flow, a high resistance could block it. You don't "apply" current, you apply volts, and current is "drawn" based on resistance. Is that about right? If not, please enlighten me. I think that means that you don't have to worry about supplying too much "current" to a component, right? You don't "supply" current, you supply voltage, and the component "draws" current based on it's resistance. Is that right? OK, now my question: For the 12 volt remote turn-on terminal of a car amplifier, which doesn't require much current, and has a much smaller connecting terminal than the 12 volt power terminal, would it be dangerous for testing purposes (testing the amp before installing it properly) to directly connect the remote turn-on terminal to the same wire as supplies the amplifier's power? Would that fry the amplifier? Would a resistor in series with this connection be required, or would that drop the voltage too low? Still a little confused, and haven't been able to find this info anywhere.

15th August 2004, 02:50 PM	#2
li_gangyi diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Woodlands Circle	yes...you should be able to use 12V to trigger the remote... __________________ Kids in the back seat cause accidents...Accidents in the back seat cause kids...

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15th August 2004, 03:27 PM	#3
trailsnail85 diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: austin and lobbuck, texas	yea you can use a peice of wire and run it into the terminal with the power wire and the amp will turn on. friend does this with a swicth on the jumper between the power and remote an uses that to turn on the amp. hes a to lazy to run a remote wire right.

17th August 2004, 01:13 AM	#4
DilutedImage diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: So. Cal	Correct ... The remote turn-on accepts 12v ... It will draw the current it needs.

17th August 2004, 03:32 AM	#6
Immo_G diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Vic, Au	Should be under 200ma, and probably around 40-50ma. You can use thin wire for this, not sure why some amps have the 8ga spot for it.

17th August 2004, 04:19 AM	#7
Tensop diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Chapel St.	Cost management Cheaper to buy a 3 terminal 8 guage socket than a 2 terminal 8 guage socket and a 22 guage socket

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