I have recently totally redone my audio system in my car. I still am lacking on it though. I need some advise. I will start by what I have and then tell you what I want to get and the problems I have thus far!
Pioneer DEH-4600MP - 50w Peak x 4
Polk Audio EX351A 3.5" (Dash) - 2-25w RMS / 50w Peak
Fosgate FRC3268 6"x8" (Hatch) - 8-60w RMS / 120w Peak
Lightning Audio B1.300.2 Amp - 100w RMS / 450w Peak @4ohmx2
Lightning Audio B2.10.4 10" Subs - 100w RMS / 750w Peak
I want to install some tweeter in the front, not sure if I can wire them in with the dash speakers without an amp though? I also want to add more midrange to to front and rear sound stage, but I am not sure what to get to do this? I was thinking of getting some 6" 2-way speakers and wiring them to amps using the PreAmp outs from the Pioneer.
I also getting distortion out of the 6"x8"s and the 3.5"s I have now. I was thinking that it is because of the bass being sent to them and I should get some bass blockers.
Any help I can get would be great. I listen to most anything in my car and I want the system to sound good for everything. Anything I can ad to help out let me know!
Pioneer DEH-4600MP - 50w Peak x 4
Polk Audio EX351A 3.5" (Dash) - 2-25w RMS / 50w Peak
Fosgate FRC3268 6"x8" (Hatch) - 8-60w RMS / 120w Peak
Lightning Audio B1.300.2 Amp - 100w RMS / 450w Peak @4ohmx2
Lightning Audio B2.10.4 10" Subs - 100w RMS / 750w Peak
I want to install some tweeter in the front, not sure if I can wire them in with the dash speakers without an amp though? I also want to add more midrange to to front and rear sound stage, but I am not sure what to get to do this? I was thinking of getting some 6" 2-way speakers and wiring them to amps using the PreAmp outs from the Pioneer.
I also getting distortion out of the 6"x8"s and the 3.5"s I have now. I was thinking that it is because of the bass being sent to them and I should get some bass blockers.
Any help I can get would be great. I listen to most anything in my car and I want the system to sound good for everything. Anything I can ad to help out let me know!
first I'd like to make a personal rant about the car audio section....
Sorry LqDFx don't take it personally. I'm gonna make a new thread devoted to this in a min.....
Please list exactly what type of car it is! It is impossible to give advice on improving any thing whith out knowing what type of car it is!
just list
Year:
make:
model:
trim level (i.e. EX, DX, GSR, GLX ect.)
ok now that is over with.
if you really want to improve your sound quality save your money and buy a nice component set. you should be able to pick up a good set starting out at $150 USD. you might have to make kick panels for them but their not that hard to do. then find a nice amp power them spend more than $199 on it. a component set makes all the difference.
you got a good head unit. the subs I don't know what thpe of box their in so I cant advise you on that. but sounds like your off to a good start.
Sorry LqDFx don't take it personally. I'm gonna make a new thread devoted to this in a min.....
Please list exactly what type of car it is! It is impossible to give advice on improving any thing whith out knowing what type of car it is!
just list
Year:
make:
model:
trim level (i.e. EX, DX, GSR, GLX ect.)
ok now that is over with.
if you really want to improve your sound quality save your money and buy a nice component set. you should be able to pick up a good set starting out at $150 USD. you might have to make kick panels for them but their not that hard to do. then find a nice amp power them spend more than $199 on it. a component set makes all the difference.
you got a good head unit. the subs I don't know what thpe of box their in so I cant advise you on that. but sounds like your off to a good start.
Sorry pk, I was in such a hurry to get out the door that I forgot to mention what I am driving!
Auto Stats: 1986 Ford Mustang GT Hatchback (5-spd).
I just have gotten done with building the subwoofers new home in my hatch. It is a custom Sealed enclosure designed to fit my car and the subs. I have .763 FT^3 in each box. After a test run, I think the box is going to do just fine!
I was thinking about the front speakers when I went to get some supplies for the box, and I picked up some High Pass Crossovers at 400 Hz. I think this should help with the distorting of the Polk 3.5"s. Ans I have 1" Dome Tweeters to install now, wiring them in parallel will not drop the Ohm value will it?
Auto Stats: 1986 Ford Mustang GT Hatchback (5-spd).
I just have gotten done with building the subwoofers new home in my hatch. It is a custom Sealed enclosure designed to fit my car and the subs. I have .763 FT^3 in each box. After a test run, I think the box is going to do just fine!
I was thinking about the front speakers when I went to get some supplies for the box, and I picked up some High Pass Crossovers at 400 Hz. I think this should help with the distorting of the Polk 3.5"s. Ans I have 1" Dome Tweeters to install now, wiring them in parallel will not drop the Ohm value will it?
Well I just got back from my dads, they don't like it when you work on cars on the apartment grounds. Anway, I installed the crossovers and the tweeters. I no longer get any distortion at any volume level and the sound is full and rich! I might have a little too much highs, but the bass is not coming from the 3.5"s anymore!
Cool. yes you can wire the tweeters in parallel with the fornt speakers just make sure you have a high pass crossover (Capisitor) in line with it. about 2-5 kHz should do.
Sounds like you got a plan.
Oh and if the bass is a little too tight and punchy for you when you listen to the subs, put a little pillow stuffing in them to Simulate a larger box.
Sounds like you got a plan.
Oh and if the bass is a little too tight and punchy for you when you listen to the subs, put a little pillow stuffing in them to Simulate a larger box.
car audio....
hi there, id like to offer my advise! personally id amp just the front speakers, or amp the rears with a lot less power, id run a single set of component speakers in the front with a set of two ways or something like that in the rear - just for fill. that way the sound stage stays in the front (where ur at!), run the components with a hpf off the amp of about 80-100hz, then run the sub at the same, the bigger the sub the lower the lpf. and the same goes for the fronts the bigger the component speaker the lower the hpf hope this helps!!
hi there, id like to offer my advise! personally id amp just the front speakers, or amp the rears with a lot less power, id run a single set of component speakers in the front with a set of two ways or something like that in the rear - just for fill. that way the sound stage stays in the front (where ur at!), run the components with a hpf off the amp of about 80-100hz, then run the sub at the same, the bigger the sub the lower the lpf. and the same goes for the fronts the bigger the component speaker the lower the hpf hope this helps!!
almichie,
I hear your advise, and I do agree with you for the most part. I bought a really good head unit that seems to have more than enough power to drive the speakers I have, they were clipping after all! I just installed some tweeters and a crossover to cut the bass out of the front of the system. Now I only get mid-range and up in the front. I installed a pair of 10" Lightning Audio subs in a sealed enclosure in the hatch for all of my deep lows. I have a pair of Fosgate 6"x8" 2-ways in the hatch also to finish out the mid range coming from the rear. The way I have it set up I feel that most of the sound is coming from the front and I get that concert hall feel with the style music I listen to.
I am hoping to install more speakers and a better looking enclosure in the future since the car will be a show car when I am done. As far as the sound system goes I did all the wiring right the first time, that way I will not have to rip it out later!
here is a link to my photos on another site. I hope to be showing more than a sad car in about 2 years!
I hear your advise, and I do agree with you for the most part. I bought a really good head unit that seems to have more than enough power to drive the speakers I have, they were clipping after all! I just installed some tweeters and a crossover to cut the bass out of the front of the system. Now I only get mid-range and up in the front. I installed a pair of 10" Lightning Audio subs in a sealed enclosure in the hatch for all of my deep lows. I have a pair of Fosgate 6"x8" 2-ways in the hatch also to finish out the mid range coming from the rear. The way I have it set up I feel that most of the sound is coming from the front and I get that concert hall feel with the style music I listen to.
I am hoping to install more speakers and a better looking enclosure in the future since the car will be a show car when I am done. As far as the sound system goes I did all the wiring right the first time, that way I will not have to rip it out later!
here is a link to my photos on another site. I hope to be showing more than a sad car in about 2 years!
Hello,
The HP filter for your speakers is too high.
Where is your 120hz to 400hz sound reproduction coming from?
I realize there will be some info because the 'bass blockers' are probably 6db slope.
Try a bass blocker (or build) one that is rated at 150hz .
Things should sound better.
Cheers
Kevint
The HP filter for your speakers is too high.
Where is your 120hz to 400hz sound reproduction coming from?
I realize there will be some info because the 'bass blockers' are probably 6db slope.
Try a bass blocker (or build) one that is rated at 150hz .
Things should sound better.
Cheers
Kevint
I'd go with that one. use a lower frequency and steeper slope crossover. I'm using one at 100Hz 12db/oct. I would have gone down to 50-75Hz since I have 5.25" coaxes in the door but 100 is the lowest setting in my XO.
powering the fronts with an amp of about 50 watts (real watts not PMPO) RMS and that will already go loud. my system uses only 50 watts per ch in the fronts and 170 watts per 10" sub and the headunit amp for the rear. it is enough to trigger car alarms of parked cars. slot loading subs also make it go louder.
powering the fronts with an amp of about 50 watts (real watts not PMPO) RMS and that will already go loud. my system uses only 50 watts per ch in the fronts and 170 watts per 10" sub and the headunit amp for the rear. it is enough to trigger car alarms of parked cars.
slot loading subs also make it go louder. 
i will always recommend never to use the head units speaker outputs! not ever, they have no power and only spoil the sound quality as they can not run anything with any quality.
For SQ i will always recommend the best mids and tweeters and a decent sound quality amplifier and good hifi cable.
I have found everybody has a different idea about what sound quality is, if its lots of bass then thats something else, if its high SPL thats also something else if you want a hi-fi sound in your car thats the best thing to aim for, thats my template for sound quality.
You have a muscle car and i think you need a good level of sound so lots of amplifiers and the most important part of a car audio system is the installation, in home audio its a 30 minute job, in car audio it can takes week! so good luck!
For SQ i will always recommend the best mids and tweeters and a decent sound quality amplifier and good hifi cable.
I have found everybody has a different idea about what sound quality is, if its lots of bass then thats something else, if its high SPL thats also something else if you want a hi-fi sound in your car thats the best thing to aim for, thats my template for sound quality.
You have a muscle car and i think you need a good level of sound so lots of amplifiers and the most important part of a car audio system is the installation, in home audio its a 30 minute job, in car audio it can takes week! so good luck!
Cobra 2, I also thinl Flowmasters sound great! That is why I spent $350 on a cat back system for the stang!
As for the stereo system, Paradise Ice, I am looking for the Hi-Fi qaulity of sound. I think I am about where I want it. Since my dad is a musician who loves the blues and blues rock, I grew up on it and that is what I want to sound good in the car when I am going down the road. I also want to be able to listen to other types of music in there also. I am big on hearing everything that went into the recording. If a artist or band did not want you to hear the symbles crashing, then why would they put them in the track? That is my stance on sound quality. Yeah big bass is great if that is what the artist wanted to record, but if there is other instuments in there besides the drums and bass guitar, I want to hear it as intended!
As for the stereo system, Paradise Ice, I am looking for the Hi-Fi qaulity of sound. I think I am about where I want it. Since my dad is a musician who loves the blues and blues rock, I grew up on it and that is what I want to sound good in the car when I am going down the road. I also want to be able to listen to other types of music in there also. I am big on hearing everything that went into the recording. If a artist or band did not want you to hear the symbles crashing, then why would they put them in the track? That is my stance on sound quality. Yeah big bass is great if that is what the artist wanted to record, but if there is other instuments in there besides the drums and bass guitar, I want to hear it as intended!
Here's my 2 cents: I've been into amps for a long time and even know quite a bit about design through the school of hard knocks (beating my head against a concrete wall). Home stereo has been my past but am now working on a bunch of car amps I have collected over the years and they are really no different at all with regards to what needs to be done to them to get them to sound worth a crap. The circuit level is actually quite amazing in some but simply were not fabricated with very good parts (capacitors mainly). To go through these amps in detail really does make a difference, just like the nutcases do in home stereo. To just replace opamp buffers with today's current opamps, do a comprehensive electrolytic upgrade, reset biases, and do general circuit cleanup when possible will indeed get you a whole new sound! I must point out that today's electrolytic caps (if you know what to look for) are so far advanced over those 10-20 years ago that you MUST consider this. Much has happened with electrolytic technology and certain lines and even certain values in lines stand out that I see no one talking about on here. However, much of today's gear still manages to use lower grades. The old school car amps are a great way to start if you have to time to do the somewhat time-consuming upgrade. I am old fashioned, the chip amps do nothing for me. It's way too easy to look at what's done and not even have to wonder why the sound ain't there.
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