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Old 24th June 2004, 03:17 AM   #1
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Default How Many capacitors for How many Watts?

What would you say the rule if for adding capacitors to a car audio system is?
I think its 1 farad per 40 amps of current draw or is there something more mathimatical?I am looking at a Soundstream 3 joined capacitor thingy! is that any good? i know soundstream is no longer sound stream and Acoustik Power is the one pulling the strings, I bloody hate acoustik power!
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Old 24th June 2004, 04:54 AM   #2
Immo_G is offline Immo_G  Australia
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Dunno who designed that rule, i'd say one of the car rice companies that produce caps. The high end competition cars don't use caps, and most people i know don't use them. If you are getting lights dimming on the beat, your battery and charging system can't cope, a capacitor doesn't hold enough charge to help that.
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Old 24th June 2004, 08:56 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally posted by Immo_G
Dunno who designed that rule, i'd say one of the car rice companies that produce caps. The high end competition cars don't use caps, and most people i know don't use them. If you are getting lights dimming on the beat, your battery and charging system can't cope, a capacitor doesn't hold enough charge to help that.
Is there any point using capacitors, or should you just have a huge battery and alternator?
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Old 24th June 2004, 09:32 AM   #4
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I would have thought just a bit of light dimming on the beat might be fixed with big caps, so long as there's enough charging to get it all back up in between. Maybe if the lights dim constantly and never recover, or engine running problems etc it may need a different approach
Steve
edit: maybe even a completely seperate alternator/battery system just for audio as Matt suggested
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Old 24th June 2004, 12:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by Immo_G
Dunno who designed that rule, i'd say one of the car rice companies that produce caps. The high end competition cars don't use caps, and most people i know don't use them. If you are getting lights dimming on the beat, your battery and charging system can't cope, a capacitor doesn't hold enough charge to help that.

Quote:
Originally posted by Matttcattt


Is there any point using capacitors, or should you just have a huge battery and alternator?
I didnt know that! people in the know, dont use caps? ok.
So i need to get a trackor battery? space in my engine is not that free, i have a stock altenator also, its good for around 90 amps, but a seperate battery needs a seperate regulator right? i cant just parallel 2 batterys together?
I cant add a bigger altenator or even add another one, to many pullys and pumps on my engine bay as it is, The Ampilifir in question has 100 amp current draw that is giving me the disco lights! i think its embarresting


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Old 24th June 2004, 01:24 PM   #6
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normally the battery voltage is 12V , when the engine is running its 13.8V .
when u are using high power amps that need high current the battery voltage drops to 10V or even less , to 8-7 volts ! this causing the lights to dim , it can cause your HU to work un properly - that way distortion can be added to the audio signal .
using big cap near the amp will prevent this , the high current peaks will be drown from the cap and not from the battery .

dont buy those fancy 100$ or more caps , u can use "simple" big caps for that porpuse
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Old 24th June 2004, 01:44 PM   #7
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A cap will only help with an non-frequent, burst load. If you are running an amp that needs 100A the only solution is to upgrade the alternator to a higher current one. A cap cannot allow more continuous current to be drawn than is available from the alternator, the cap has to be recharged and often this puts massive demands on the alt. There is no such thing as perpetual motion

IMO a cap is the worst value-for-money item you can buy for car audio and you are better spending the extortionate amount they cost on buying better headunit/amp/battery/power cable/alt in the first place.
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Old 24th June 2004, 03:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by richie00boy
A cap will only help with an non-frequent, burst load. If you are running an amp that needs 100A the only solution is to upgrade the alternator to a higher current one. A cap cannot allow more continuous current to be drawn than is available from the alternator, the cap has to be recharged and often this puts massive demands on the alt. There is no such thing as perpetual motion

IMO a cap is the worst value-for-money item you can buy for car audio and you are better spending the extortionate amount they cost on buying better headunit/amp/battery/power cable/alt in the first place.
There is peretual motion if you have a super conducting liquid or Gravity! with no friction , Your right caps cost alot of money but its a good gimmic! My problem is i have more then 1 amp, i have two old good old school JBL GTs 300 as i love the sound quality from them. They need 40 amps each, and this new one from Visonik is a greedy ******, its draining my system big time, i have 4 runs of 4 gauge cable from my battery that is to a 110 amp marine boat battery, its pretty big! The only thing is i dont need that much power, who does bloody hell! its just to show people how much power i can get out of one of my Goliath infrawoofer, I dont want to have a battery in the car but its starting to look like i will have to, I wont spend silly money on a optima yellow top, there expensive in Scotland! I know i will damge my cars electrical system if i keep on pushing it! thats not what i want to do to an old Saab 900 thats 5 years old! Is there something i can buy to add another battery on have it on the same charging system?
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Old 24th June 2004, 03:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by richie00boy
A cap will only help with an non-frequent, burst load. If you are running an amp that needs 100A the only solution is to upgrade the alternator to a higher current one. A cap cannot allow more continuous current to be drawn than is available from the alternator, the cap has to be recharged and often this puts massive demands on the alt. There is no such thing as perpetual motion

IMO a cap is the worst value-for-money item you can buy for car audio and you are better spending the extortionate amount they cost on buying better headunit/amp/battery/power cable/alt in the first place.
There is peretual motion if you have a super conducting liquid or Gravity! with no friction , Your right caps cost alot of money but its a good gimmic! My problem is i have more then 1 amp, i have two old good old school JBL GTs 300 as i love the sound quality from them. They need 40 amps each, and this new one from Visonik is a greedy ******, its draining my system big time, i have 4 runs of 4 gauge cable from my battery that is to a 110 amp marine boat battery, its pretty big! The only thing is i dont need that much power, who does bloody hell! its just to show people how much power i can get out of one of my Goliath infrawoofer, I dont want to have a battery in the car but its starting to look like i will have to, I wont spend silly money on a optima yellow top, there expensive in Scotland! I know i will damge my cars electrical system if i keep on pushing it! thats not what i want to do to an old Saab 900 thats 5 years old! Is there something i can buy to add another battery on have it on the same charging system?
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Old 24th June 2004, 03:48 PM   #10
Immo_G is offline Immo_G  Australia
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I know people who have used a larger car battery (95 RC 440CCA) battery, with 1200wrms setups, and had little dimming. The main difference, he had the battery with the amps.

4 runs of 4ga shouldn't be causing any voltage drop with that sort of load, i'd be wondering about your battery condition.

Serious question, what is your battery ground cable like? If its the stock usual 8ga wire, i'd expect that to be your main problem. Also if its badly mounted or rusted (never had a Saab myself), this will cause a major voltage drop on everything.

I guess check your amp grounds as well, but the main one i'd check is the battery ground.
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