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Old 3rd July 2004, 01:27 PM   #41
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hi pk386,
you have given me some more good ideas, hum,,,
a new altenator winding! i dont know if anybody does that around me, i dont have space for a bigger one as this 90 amp one is rather large all ready! I have pretty good ground cables, ok its not car audio cable, its QED silver anniversery cable, 8 runs make 4 gauge! and i have bolted it to the chassis, the altenator has a good strong copper cable,

i am really am in 3 minds now about the extra power needed,
a second battery or a bigger battery or a better split charging system, the shows are outdoor and i will not have access to a home power supply, i dont want to get a push start at the end of the day! that would look really bad,

What do you guys think about one very large battery,
like a Excide, they get used in tracktors! there 12 volts but 500 amps for one hour!!! ,
i only though about this as i used to replace the plates when i was a young boy many years ago.

I did not think i have the room but i could make a shelf in my engine bay for it,

there about 30kg per battery but i mean 400 to 500 amps for one hour is amazing power, i dont think my lights will dim, i even gave a CAT a jump start once!
Is that a little silly for a old cars altenator, a tracktor battery?

The altenator is 15 years old, orginal windings and bushes and its still alive!

SSS, i dont mind cheating! for a good reason
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Old 3rd July 2004, 02:29 PM   #42
sss is offline sss  Israel
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putting a big battery is the same as connecting 2 regular ones in parallel
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Old 3rd July 2004, 04:15 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally posted by sss
putting a big battery is the same as connecting 2 regular ones in parallel
I am not sure? i though that the different capacity of each battery would be a charging problem?

one getting to much charge and the other not getting enough?

and if this happend,

Then one would get over charged, is that not right?

Unless i got 2 brand new batterys that had the same charge power level to start with?

I am not sure what to do, i know it has to be safe and a long term thing.

Thanks guys
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Old 3rd July 2004, 06:50 PM   #44
sss is offline sss  Israel
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i dont think any battery will be overcharged , the max voltage from the charging system is ~14V , i think the charging system is only limiting the current for the battery while charging
i know big batteries for trucks that can supply 125AH , maybe u can use something like this instead of your regular car battery
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Old 6th July 2004, 09:02 PM   #45
jp88 is offline jp88  United States
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I think you mis understood the post about upgrading the wiring This is often refered to as the big 3. This would most likely help your situation if it dosn't fix it. 1. you should have a minimum of 2 ga ground from the battery to the engine .2. and from the battery to the chassis. 2 you should have a minimum of 4 ga from your alternator to your battery. If you do this you will likely help your problem. I would also replace the battery with a bigger one not an additional one and if that doesn't do it you should have alternator rewound or replace with higher output alternator.

btw a higher output alternator is not necisarily bigger in size. I replaced my factory 75 amp alternator with a 140 amp alternator and it is physically the same size.
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Old 7th July 2004, 01:25 AM   #46
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I have four, 4 gauge cables from my battery to my amp and four 4 gauge cables to the earth, the cables are not a problem honestly,
I am going for a split charging system and 2 batterys.

One of my friends showed me his system and its really works a treat! no light diming at all!

i just did an install on a BMW 318 saloon, and the guy only wanted 8 gauge cable for am amplifier with 50 amp current draw, The problem is the bass sounds weaker at the high output than the low output?
I think the cable is to thin maybe?
The amp is strong and i dont believe thats at fault,
can the cable really be to blame for weak loud bass?
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Old 7th July 2004, 03:44 AM   #47
djQUAN is offline djQUAN  Philippines
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it can really have an effect on the bass.

thin power wires suffer with IR losses if you pump the amp loud enough, you can feel that the wires are heating. although that wire could handle the 50 amps but only for a short distance. with that amp, you need atleast 4 gauge cable or thicker.
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Old 8th July 2004, 04:50 PM   #48
jp88 is offline jp88  United States
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how about from battery neg to engine block and from alt to battery these can have just as much effect
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Old 21st July 2004, 06:35 AM   #49
prodigy is offline prodigy  Japan
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gooday i'm new here... just hope that i'm not that late for a reply.. much like a sharing n my personal oppinion

1. by changing the stock alternator to a bigger amperes are more greater then adding 4 or 10Farad capacitor...

2. the 2nd alternatives are by adding the same model/make battery.. how many ? depends on ur total wattage n the way u pump up the jam...

3. by having a jacob accuvolts to bring up total voltage n ampere in ur ride

if ur thinking to have 2 batts or more.. consider a battery isolator.. cos even if both batteries are new.. not all batteries has the same chemical characteristic.. chances are.. one will die prematurely ... battery isolator can be found at http://www.stingerelectronics.com/we...ies_access.asp

and jacob accuvolts can be found at http://www.jacobselectronics.com/pro...o/caraudio.htm

with jacobs u can run ur AMP with 14.4v stable .. 24/7

justification ? we'll we have many IASCA champs on that... (i'm no whatsoever related to IASCA, just a friend to a bunch of competitors)

4. grounding is the weakest link... ground ur alt and batteries with as heavy (thick) OFC cable as posibble and shortest too.. this helps me with pops n hiss in my puny ride.

i hope with these... i can be apart of the DIY CAR AUDIO forummers....


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