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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I've done this on all my previous cars. They were Japanese so they used the top mount for OEM. So I would get a side mount terminal and add more ground wire from the batt to the chaassis. So, now I did it again, this time in reverse cause I have a GM car. I bought a 1 gauge 31 inch cable and mounted it to my Exide Orbital XD's top and grounded it to the OEM ground point. It looks pretty factory except for the part that actually goes onto the battery. I think it may have made a difference in the performance of my largest amp. I notice that the headlights do not dim as much even when I have the system cranked. Is this smoking crack and in my mind or is there something actually going on?
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Vic, Au
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It does actually make a difference, the ground wire is usually pretty pathetic on most cars. Definetly recommended to replace once you get a serious amp.
The entire amp current is going through that cable as well as headlights, so if its high resistance, it'll cause a voltage drop, dimming headlights and costing amp power. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Birmingham, UK
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When the cars running all of the power should be coming from the alternator, which is of course connected to the car body. However for instantaneous loads such as bass beats which the altenator can't react too quickly enough, then the battery will provide the difference.
Hence by improving this link you have reduced the lights dimming. |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Connecticut
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Quote:
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dave |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Birmingham, UK
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Still all the power should be coming from the altenator, and not passing the battery. On every car I have seen the engin is grounded to the car body, not the battery. Why would it, the car body is a far more effective ground plane, than a point connection to the battery.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Connecticut
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The engine is grounded to the body, but through relatively small wires. Engine and tranny mounts to the frame are rubber isolated and not reliable electrical paths. In a car with full frame, the body is also rubber isolated.
The main alternator return is the wire from the block to the battery (which also handles starter current), and from the battery negative to body. Those 2 and the alt to battery wire are the "magic 3" that people recommend replacing.
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dave |
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