So I have a new F150.
I pulled out the stock Sony sound.
I removed the amp.
I have an Idatalink Maestro DSR1
Preamps going to a JL XD 800 75watt RMS to a pillar tweeters
6.5 front door mid bass. 6.5 inch coax rear fill. The speakers are Hertz Mille Pro series.
There is a custom sub enclosure under the rear bench with two 12 inch alpine type R thins. These are being fed with a JL HD1200/1 mono amp at 2ohn
So I set the gains using a multimeter for voltage. I used an RTA To level the sound curves.
I set the crossovers active to 2.5khz 18db tweeter
70hz 12db front mid bass. 80hz 12db rear fill. The sub is 100hz 12db.
I set the time delay based on measuring to the edge of the driver seat. The sound stage is pretty good now.
I don’t know how to set the trim. I think the tweeters are too loud and maybe sound harsh? I’m not sure I’ve neb r had a real audio system before and have never heard one. How do I set the trim for each channel? Do I use a decibel meter? Not sure how to handle it. I have a terrible ear.
I pulled out the stock Sony sound.
I removed the amp.
I have an Idatalink Maestro DSR1
Preamps going to a JL XD 800 75watt RMS to a pillar tweeters
6.5 front door mid bass. 6.5 inch coax rear fill. The speakers are Hertz Mille Pro series.
There is a custom sub enclosure under the rear bench with two 12 inch alpine type R thins. These are being fed with a JL HD1200/1 mono amp at 2ohn
So I set the gains using a multimeter for voltage. I used an RTA To level the sound curves.
I set the crossovers active to 2.5khz 18db tweeter
70hz 12db front mid bass. 80hz 12db rear fill. The sub is 100hz 12db.
I set the time delay based on measuring to the edge of the driver seat. The sound stage is pretty good now.
I don’t know how to set the trim. I think the tweeters are too loud and maybe sound harsh? I’m not sure I’ve neb r had a real audio system before and have never heard one. How do I set the trim for each channel? Do I use a decibel meter? Not sure how to handle it. I have a terrible ear.
I am learning as I go...
I used an RTA for each pair of speakers and I tried to make the curves level with a nice even clean slope that matches the crossover. There are no spikes or dips any more. The sound quality I think is prettt nice. I’m just not so sure everything is coming together balanced and cohesive. I have no set the trim. I don’t really know how. Everything is the volume I set based on the voltage measurement on the multimeter. I set them about 90% of calculated to avoid distortion Or clipping. Seems to have worked.
I used an RTA for each pair of speakers and I tried to make the curves level with a nice even clean slope that matches the crossover. There are no spikes or dips any more. The sound quality I think is prettt nice. I’m just not so sure everything is coming together balanced and cohesive. I have no set the trim. I don’t really know how. Everything is the volume I set based on the voltage measurement on the multimeter. I set them about 90% of calculated to avoid distortion Or clipping. Seems to have worked.
Generally, if you set the gains so that the amp will never be able to clip, the output level will not be sufficient.
Trim? Do you mean gains?
I don't know what you mean by 'matches the crossover'. The overall curve on the RTA (at the seating position) will be subjective. Some people like a flat response. Some like a slope that's bass heavy and slopes down at about a 20° angle towards the high end.
Trim? Do you mean gains?
I don't know what you mean by 'matches the crossover'. The overall curve on the RTA (at the seating position) will be subjective. Some people like a flat response. Some like a slope that's bass heavy and slopes down at about a 20° angle towards the high end.
I tried to adjust the frequencies on the EQ with the RTA TO give me smooth gentle slopes within the range of frequencies th speaker set can play.
I don’t have any issue with the sound quality per say.
As far as the gain goes.... I’m not sure about clipping but the stereo is so loud I can’t turn it above 2/3 without it being uncomfortable in the truck cab. Would there still be a benefit to more gain?
I think the tweeters are playing louder than the doors. My ear isn’t very good. I’m not sure. I just know it sounds a bit funny. Instruments like classical music.... amazing. Vocals... a bit harsh.
What is the proper procedure for adjusting the channel trim? Would a decibel meter help me? Should the tweeters play at the same relative volume as the mids?
I don’t have any issue with the sound quality per say.
As far as the gain goes.... I’m not sure about clipping but the stereo is so loud I can’t turn it above 2/3 without it being uncomfortable in the truck cab. Would there still be a benefit to more gain?
I think the tweeters are playing louder than the doors. My ear isn’t very good. I’m not sure. I just know it sounds a bit funny. Instruments like classical music.... amazing. Vocals... a bit harsh.
What is the proper procedure for adjusting the channel trim? Would a decibel meter help me? Should the tweeters play at the same relative volume as the mids?
I set the crossovers active to 2.5khz 18db tweeter
70hz 12db front mid bass. 80hz 12db rear fill. The sub is 100hz 12db.
Thats wrong.
Set the tweeter 3500Hz 24db, Midrange HP 2800Hz 24db,lowpass 400Hz 24db, Bass HP 250Hz 24db, lp 70Hz 24db, subwoofer 35-40Hz 24db.
You need to reduce the level from 1khz up to 20khz with 1db per octave, you have to increase from 800Hz to 400Hz with 2db, from 400 Hz to 100Hz with 5db and from 100 to the lowest about 20db.It must be a curve. Google Autohifi Referenzkurve.
Between the crossoverpoint you have to set - 6db. That means if you have set crossover for Tweeter at 3500Hz/24db and midrange 2800Hz/24db, the measured gap between them must be -6db. For that you have to measure the tweeter alone, and the midrange alone. If you measure them together, it should be a flat line because of addition.
For better results you need calibrated measuring equipment and for example arta or REW(Room Eqaulizer Wizard)
70hz 12db front mid bass. 80hz 12db rear fill. The sub is 100hz 12db.
Thats wrong.
Set the tweeter 3500Hz 24db, Midrange HP 2800Hz 24db,lowpass 400Hz 24db, Bass HP 250Hz 24db, lp 70Hz 24db, subwoofer 35-40Hz 24db.
You need to reduce the level from 1khz up to 20khz with 1db per octave, you have to increase from 800Hz to 400Hz with 2db, from 400 Hz to 100Hz with 5db and from 100 to the lowest about 20db.It must be a curve. Google Autohifi Referenzkurve.
Between the crossoverpoint you have to set - 6db. That means if you have set crossover for Tweeter at 3500Hz/24db and midrange 2800Hz/24db, the measured gap between them must be -6db. For that you have to measure the tweeter alone, and the midrange alone. If you measure them together, it should be a flat line because of addition.
For better results you need calibrated measuring equipment and for example arta or REW(Room Eqaulizer Wizard)
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Whoa...
Would someone be able to break that down into newbie terminology?
I can change the settings you suggest. I’ll try it.
Would someone be able to break that down into newbie terminology?
I can change the settings you suggest. I’ll try it.
Ah, ok that means you have two way front + sub and rear...
Then you need Highpass for tweeter 3500Hz 24dB, front door 2800Hz /24db Highpass, 70Hz 24dB Lowpass. Subwoofer as mentioned 35-40Hz 24db lowpass.
Reardoors 100Hz 24db Highpass. Lowpass no needed.
Then you need to adjust the time delay with an test cd.
Time delay must set, that the voice is in front over your steering wheel. After that you have to set the balance and move all speakers to the middle of your dashboard
Then you need Highpass for tweeter 3500Hz 24dB, front door 2800Hz /24db Highpass, 70Hz 24dB Lowpass. Subwoofer as mentioned 35-40Hz 24db lowpass.
Reardoors 100Hz 24db Highpass. Lowpass no needed.
Then you need to adjust the time delay with an test cd.
Time delay must set, that the voice is in front over your steering wheel. After that you have to set the balance and move all speakers to the middle of your dashboard
Your first recommendations already made it SO MUCH BETTER.
It removed the weird harshness out of the tweeters.
Where can I get a time delay test cd? I used a test clip from YouTube which has me very close. Real cd would be better.
Thanks
It removed the weird harshness out of the tweeters.
Where can I get a time delay test cd? I used a test clip from YouTube which has me very close. Real cd would be better.
Thanks
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