Trying to revive a Kicker ZR360

[white93z34]

Hey guys,

This seemed like a pretty good place for technical knowledge on these things..

So long story short I have a old ZR360 that I got ages ago but has sat unused till just lately, I got it under the understanding that it needed work.

I powered it up, it got hot, yellow and red lights were on, so I shut it down and took it apart.

Found a shorted TIP35C transistor. Also found some dodgy work that someone else had done. I *think* there is supposed to be a inline fuse to protect the RCAs, that was missing and had a piece of wire soldered in its place. I assume that is supposed to be a fuse? Anyone have any idea what value it needs to be?

I also was reading that all transistors on the channel should be replaced when one goes bad.

If I understand this right the TIP35Cs are on the negative rail, do I need to replace just those or the TIP36s that are on the positive rail too.

I should post a few pictures, I can't tell if some other mosfets have been changed. but someone has worked in that area.

thanks for any help!

 

[Perry Babin]

I was hoping the Kicker tech would visit. Until he does...

I would replace all of the outputs in the blown channel. Check the emitter resistors as well.

TIP35s are on the positive rail, if I'm not mistaken.

If the solder pad/screw hold near the transformer is electrically connected to the transformer secondary, I'd use a nylon screw to screw the board down there.

Can you post a photo where you believe a fuse should be?

 

[white93z34]

Ok, here's what I got.

for whatever ends I cannot upload to my webspace right now, so lets see if attaching works

When I opened it up I was greeted with some pretty gnarly work around the RCAs, I've since cleaned it up and revealed a few pads that that I think once held a fuse.

There is still evidence of work being done elsewhere. Not sure what to make of that. I can only assume its ok since I don't have a good schematic for the ZR360.

I pulled a few of the suspect TIP35Cs to confirm that the one was shorted

 

[Perry Babin]

Use the 'go advanced' and then 'manage attachments' buttons to load the images to the forum server.

 

[white93z34]

Ok Finally got my webspace sorted out and was able to upload again.

So this is what I was greeted to on the bottom side of the PCB
there was a glob of solder connecting a couple points on the capacitors above. You can see the wire globbed in to replace what I think was a fuse

Cleaned up the mess, the solder glob was messy but harmless since they were on the same trace

This is where I think a fuse is supposed to go, on those pads

It appears as someone did work here, no idea if these are the original or even correct components

And just a overview of the board with 2 of the TIP35Cs removed. One is dead shorted.

 

[Perry Babin]

I didn't remember the 360 having a fuse.

This what I've been using (mouser).
576-0468001.NR

 

[white93z34]

I assume that it did in fact have one, otherwise it was a different type of component that someone fried and bypassed with that wire.

I was thinking it would be something in the 1 amp ballpark. Thank you

 

[white93z34]

Getting ready to order up components.

Do I need to change the TIP36s tranisitors on the other rail or just the bank of TIP35s?

The resistors seem fine

 

[Perry Babin]

In this amp, three of the TIP35s and three of the TIP36s make up one channel. I'd replace all outputs (six total) in the channel that failed.

 

[white93z34]

Got all the parts on order from Mouser last night, I'll report back once I get them installed and see what happens. Thank you for the help so far!

 

[ppia600]

I had one of the ZR amps way back, it had a smd fuse in the rca area. Can't remember what size it was but do remember thinking it was a good idea with all of the ground issues crappy amp installations cause.

 

[white93z34]

Ok, So I got all the parts in the mail today. Installed tonight.

I have to upload pictures soon. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

Happy to report that this amplifier is back alive.

Perhaps its because I have it on a car battery on the bench and a Head unit is being powered via a benchtop power supply, but this seems to have a odd hum to it even when nothing is being played. If I turn the gain almost as low as it goes it will mostly go away.

I tend to think this is because of how I have it setup right now, but if I'm wrong I'd rather repair while I still have it all accessible

 

[Perry Babin]

Connect the 12v power supply (negative/ground terminal) to the battery ground terminal.

 

[white93z34]

Thanks. That did help. Though I think my bigger issue is that my benchtop power supply is just noisy. I should upgrade that sometime.

So it seems to be in good working order now. I massively appreciate the help.