Hey all, I have a Blaupunkt New York 800 head unit that the volume knob just pretty much locked up. I can turn it with a vice grip, but it also no longer pushes in and out to mute or un-mute.
So I am looking for a little help finding a new potentiometer I can solder on. I can not find any number on it (Kinda looks like a 1103 written on the side) I did not un-solder it to look under it for a part number. it has 5 pins, and 2 larger "pins" that are holding on the board.
Here are some pics, any help is appreciated
So I am looking for a little help finding a new potentiometer I can solder on. I can not find any number on it (Kinda looks like a 1103 written on the side) I did not un-solder it to look under it for a part number. it has 5 pins, and 2 larger "pins" that are holding on the board.
Here are some pics, any help is appreciated
Attachments
Thank you, that helps in my search. I am thinking about pulling the encoder off the board and look for a part number below it, not sure if they normally would have a number under it?
An update to the thread, and another request for a little help.
I ordered a couple encoders from Mouser, pretty much just guessing what I needed and here were the results. The first one I tried on the board was a panasonic 10v one and it didn't really work. The radio would turn on but the encoder would not do anything with the volume and would not mute when depressed, etc.
The second is a 5v one and does everything correctly, power, mute, volume and volume down, BUT, the volume is backwards. So when I turn it clockwise, the volume goes down, and vice versa.
Since I obviously know zero about these, any one able to tell me why/how the volume being backwards works? What would I look for to get it correct? Here is the link to the one I bought and worked, mostly.
Only other thing I would like in a perfect world is a shorter shaft. This one is quite a bit longer than the original one. I would say roughly 1/4" longer or so.
EN11-HSB1AF15 BI Technologies / TT Electronics | Mouser
Must haves,
needs switch
6mm flattened shaft (Shorter the better)
I ordered a couple encoders from Mouser, pretty much just guessing what I needed and here were the results. The first one I tried on the board was a panasonic 10v one and it didn't really work. The radio would turn on but the encoder would not do anything with the volume and would not mute when depressed, etc.
The second is a 5v one and does everything correctly, power, mute, volume and volume down, BUT, the volume is backwards. So when I turn it clockwise, the volume goes down, and vice versa.
Since I obviously know zero about these, any one able to tell me why/how the volume being backwards works? What would I look for to get it correct? Here is the link to the one I bought and worked, mostly.
Only other thing I would like in a perfect world is a shorter shaft. This one is quite a bit longer than the original one. I would say roughly 1/4" longer or so. EN11-HSB1AF15 BI Technologies / TT Electronics | Mouser
Must haves,
needs switch
6mm flattened shaft (Shorter the better)
I have not, so in this picture from your link, swapping pins A and B most likely would do it? I am guessing I would have to do a small jumper wire between the pins on the encoder and the board?
Thanks,
Attachments
Clamp the very end of the shaft in a vise that is attached to the work bench.
Use a small hack saw to cut the shaft to the desired length. File the rough edges
so it fits the knob.
The housing is made from diecast metal alloy.
Diecast alloy has the unfortunate property of causing emulsifying and solidification of lubricants.....anybody who has serviced BSR type turntables will be familiar with this.
Apply some heat and Dexron II auto gearbox oil to free up the shaft rotation and you will be good to go.
Dan.
Diecast alloy has the unfortunate property of causing emulsifying and solidification of lubricants.....anybody who has serviced BSR type turntables will be familiar with this.
Apply some heat and Dexron II auto gearbox oil to free up the shaft rotation and you will be good to go.
Dan.
I did cut it down when I installed it. the bushing itself is a little longer than the oem one, so even though I cut the shaft down, it still sticks out from the head unit probably 3/8" further than it should be. I just thought if I ordered a new one, would be nice to find one a little closer to the factory one.
I did take it apart and it is a mechanical issue with the shaft. My best guess is that there was a ball/detent system for the switch part of the encoder and it somehow got tangled around the shaft. I can see a very small wire, or strap that is twisted around the shaft, up near where it comes out of the encoder. I tried to free up the shaft but it is so tiny and "cheap" that when I try to do anything, the body of the encoder basically falls apart.
Anyone venture a guess on the jumper wires working on the legs A and B? If so, I will give it a shot. I don't want to just do it and F something up since it was an expensive head unit at one time.
Thanks
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.